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Rather just get the Type-S cause it makes more sense than trying to dress up an A-Spec like a Type-S performance wise
Exactly.
Acura already upgraded the brakes on the 2G TLX-2.0T . I would like to think that they are more than adequate for a sedan with this power/weight (at least they better be).
Just because you CAN do something, doesn't mean you should. I get the feeling that a lot of YouTubers are driven by money and monetization, and not by "their cause" , hobby, etc.
What a waste of money, I was gonna buy an Aspec but im glad I waited and for a few grand more you'll have the ultimate machine a type s. Even if it was 10k more id still get a type s.
2. Agreed. But sounds better coming from you, with your knowledge of automotive engineering and performance systems.
In general if there is away to get a bearing into a press for removal its the best way to go or gear puller if it has access. But we are not seeing any bearing removal in the video.
That said in this case they are not removing the bearing just separating the inner race from the outer race. Both races stay in their original place. The inner one on the axle the outer one on the HUB. If they were old would be a good plan to change them but in this car they have no real mileage on them.
Using a slide-hammer to remove a HUB is as common as sand on a beach. So us using the axle bolt in reinstalling it. If you did not use the bolt how would you get the correct torque setting?
For MARCO TLX - Agree best plan it get get the most performance you can afford before you start to modify. Also agree the "S" is more potent but there is not much you can do about that if you only have A-Spec money. That is unless you are smart enough to wait till you have "S" money.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 01-02-2022 at 04:52 PM.
If you did not use the bolt how would you get the correct torque setting?
I hate doing brake-jobs, so I watched again.
They kept the wrong hub on the car and left out the screws that hold the rotor to the hub. I wonder if Acura and/or Brembo would approve of that?
I saw no torque-wrenches in use.
I didn't like how the guy was touching rotor and pads without gloves.
Skip the back wheels. Really? A can a spray-paint is all you need to be 100% anyway?
No test drive.
I own a set of those Vossens. If you go with the 20" you'll need to buy new tires. When all is said and done you will have spent $4,000 on wheels and tires alone. Better just to put that money towards a Type S.
I cant believe Aspec's with 10k miles are still being sold for around 50k that's nuts
Yeah, it's pretty crazy out there now, apparently. My Audi Dealer called me the other day .
They wanted to know if I would be willing to sell my 2021 A5-Coupe back to them (for a little more than what I paid for it). It's one-year old but I only have about 3000 miles on it.
I told him - No Thanks, I love my new A5 . Why would I sell it?
For MARCO TLX - Agree best plan it get get the most performance you can afford before you start to modify. Also agree the "S" is more potent but there is not much you can do about that if you only have A-Spec money. That is unless you are smart enough to wait till you have "S" money.
Agree.
Keep in mind that A-spec trim TLX owner who wants to mimic the Type-S, may find himself spending upgrade cost, that amounts to 2 to 3 times the difference in trim model MSRP's, and still not getting to the exact performance level of the Type-S. He may get his car to look exactly like the Type-S and to handle like the Type-S. But it will be difficult to match the Type-S in terms of engine and transmission performance, unless aftermarket tuning shops start to focus on the Type-S (which is unlikely given the scant sales volume) or the entire set of Type-S PCM/engine/transmission is swapped in.
Also engine parts upgrade will automatically throw the factory warranty out of the window, and noises and rattles are common with aftermarket parts especially when different components are put together from various suppliers.
So it is a lot cheaper and a lot less headache to save up and buy the Type-S trim, rather than to buy a lesser trim model and hoping to upgrade the car to reach the Type-S level of performance in the future.
Keep in mind that A-spec trim TLX owner who wants to mimic the Type-S, may find himself spending upgrade cost, that amounts to 2 to 3 times the difference in trim model MSRP's, and still not getting to the exact performance level of the Type-S. He may get his car to look exactly like the Type-S and to handle like the Type-S. But it will be difficult to match the Type-S in terms of engine and transmission performance, unless aftermarket tuning shops start to focus on the Type-S (which is unlikely given the scant sales volume) or the entire set of Type-S PCM/engine/transmission is swapped in.
Also engine parts upgrade will automatically throw the factory warranty out of the window, and noises and rattles are common with aftermarket parts especially when different components are put together from various suppliers.
So it is a lot cheaper and a lot less headache to save up and buy the Type-S trim, rather than to buy a lesser trim model and hoping to upgrade the car to reach the Type-S level of performance in the future.
hence why there is so many for sale on Carmax, ppl getting rid of the Aspec either for a type s or something else
Keep in mind that A-spec trim TLX owner who wants to mimic the Type-S, may find himself spending upgrade cost, that amounts to 2 to 3 times the difference in trim model MSRP's, and still not getting to the exact performance level of the Type-S. He may get his car to look exactly like the Type-S and to handle like the Type-S. But it will be difficult to match the Type-S in terms of engine and transmission performance, unless aftermarket tuning shops start to focus on the Type-S (which is unlikely given the scant sales volume) or the entire set of Type-S PCM/engine/transmission is swapped in.
Also engine parts upgrade will automatically throw the factory warranty out of the window, and noises and rattles are common with aftermarket parts especially when different components are put together from various suppliers.
So it is a lot cheaper and a lot less headache to save up and buy the Type-S trim, rather than to buy a lesser trim model and hoping to upgrade the car to reach the Type-S level of performance in the future.
my thoughts exactly and seeing how A-Spec’s are going for Damn near Type-S prices it makes more sense to pony up more cash for Type-S. (reminds me of when I wanted to do an entire front-end conversion on my current 2016 TLX putting a 2018+ front end on it. Made no sense and costed a lot of money that could be put towards a new TLX)
If you can get approved for a A-Spec you can get approved for a Type-S
hence why there is so many for sale on Carmax, ppl getting rid of the Aspec either for a type s or something else
Shortly after buying my car I came to the conclusion that of all the TLX trim ranges, other than the Type S, the Aspec would hold it’s value the most. My take is that 3-4 years in once they’re in the low $30K range they will be very popular.
They kept the wrong hub on the car and left out the screws that hold the rotor to the hub. I wonder if Acura and/or Brembo would approve of that?
I saw no torque-wrenches in use.
I didn't like how the guy was touching rotor and pads without gloves.
Skip the back wheels. Really? A can a spray-paint is all you need to be 100% anyway?
No test drive.
That's because they are a bunch of turkeys getting away with it because very very few guys watching the vids know what these guys are doing. Will cut them some slack for not replacing the screws in the rotors. They are from the assembly line items to hold the rotors in place till the calipers go on. They can be very bad news on high mileage cars when they have to be drilled out because they are frozen solid.
I ran a tank recovery section when in the Army, my only non-hobby vehicle experience & these guys would be gone to cooks assistance (KP) or assistant latrine scrubbers (shit burners) if they worked for me. The others are the drama queens on the various TV shows that stand around sulking or screaming. Go nutz when I see them put back dirty parts they removed getting to what needed to be fixed. We could be in mud up to our butts but everything in the work are was cleaned as we got to it.
2. Agreed. But sounds better coming from you, with your knowledge of automotive engineering and performance systems.
Yeah, reusing a sealed cartridge bearing after it's inner race has been slide hammered out is just wrong.
Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory
In general if there is away to get a bearing into a press for removal its the best way to go or gear puller if it has access. But we are not seeing any bearing removal in the video.
That said in this case they are not removing the bearing just separating the inner race from the outer race. Both races stay in their original place. The inner one on the axle the outer one on the HUB. If they were old would be a good plan to change them but in this car they have no real mileage on them.
Using a slide-hammer to remove a HUB is as common as sand on a beach. So us using the axle bolt in reinstalling it. If you did not use the bolt how would you get the correct torque setting? .
Using a slide hammer to remove is common to remove a cartridge bearing. However reusing a cartridge wheel bearing after it's been disassembled with slide hammering out the inner race is not recommended and just plain wrong. Where do you think all that lateral hammering impact forces are going? On the bearings and races, that's where. Cartridge bearings are precision machined and assembled components and not servable or reusable once taken apart, pretty common knowledge to anybody whose worked with them before. When installed properly with a press or bearing tool there's always backing adapter to keep the pressing force isolated to the inner or outer race depending on pressing into the hub or knuckle.
FWIW, this is what a sealed cartridge style wheel bearing looks like. Majority (?) of passenger vehicles use sealed dual row ball bearing cartridge bearings today with Honda using NTN and many German cars use SKF.
I've replaced them on a variety of vehicles in the past 40 years, Honda's last awhile (200k-250k miles)
Also this is the HF tool I've used to replace cartridge bearings. The bolt needs to be replaced occasionally but the the adapters and barrels hold up ok.
They kept the wrong hub on the car and left out the screws that hold the rotor to the hub. I wonder if Acura and/or Brembo would approve of that? I saw no torque-wrenches in use. I didn't like how the guy was touching rotor and pads without gloves.
Skip the back wheels. Really? A can a spray-paint is all you need to be 100% anyway?
No test drive.
Totally agree, avoid touching the contact surfaces of the brake pads or rotors when working on them. And torque everything these days (have 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 torque wrenches) when there's a torque spec.
Also at the end of the video he talks about taking it out for a test drive.
Some things in that video that caught me was the Type-S uses mono-block Brembo calipers which require removal of the caliper to replace the pads but are probably stiffer than the traditional two piece 4 piston Brembo caliper with a center structural crossover. In the video at 8:20
The other interesting aspect is that video listed the Acura OEM part numbers so I was curious how much these Type-S Brembo calipers cost only MSRP $370
For comparison sake, here's the BMW OEM costs for the Brembo front caliper BMW (34-11-6-891-273) for a M340i is $1326
Not exactly the same part but both are Brembo monoblock 4-piston calipers, this illustrates one of my biggest pet peeves of BMW and other German cars being over-priced OEM parts
video listed the Acura OEM part numbers so I was curious how much these Type-S Brembo calipers cost only MSRP $370
For comparison sake, here's the BMW OEM costs for the Brembo front caliper BMW (34-11-6-891-273) for a M340i is $1326
Not exactly the same part but both are Brembo monoblock 4-piston calipers, this illustrates one of my biggest pet peeves of BMW and other German cars being over-priced parts
Interesting, but not that surprising if you are indeed comparing apple-to-apples (I have no experience with BMW). I do know that maintaining our Hondas and Acura was normal and fair costs.
In the "German cars" defense ... would you consider this a normal maintenance item? I've never had one replaced on any car I've owned. Seems like projected maintenance costs only includes parts/labor that owners actually end up needing/buying.
Interesting, but not that surprising if you are indeed comparing apple-to-apples (I have no experience with BMW). I do know that maintaining our Hondas and Acura was normal and fair costs.
In the "German cars" defense ... would you consider this a normal maintenance item? I've never had one replaced on any car I've owned. Seems like projected maintenance costs only includes parts/labor that owners actually end up needing/buying.
Not maintenance part but replaced when brake repairs are needed such as old brake fluid corroding the internals of the caliper.
Not maintenance part but replaced when brake repairs are needed such as old brake fluid corroding the internals of the caliper.
I guess that is why both Honda and Acura dealer's technicians suggested (and I let them) flush/replace the brake fluid every couple of years. Seemed to really help the brakes work properly and last a long time.
The 2014-MDX Tech/SHAWD never needed a brake-job (with brake shoes and what-not). Sold it after 6 years and 60k miles.
The 2004 Accord-V6 only had one front-brake job in 2010, and one rear-brake-job (shoes finally replaced) in 2013. Sold it in 2020 with 90k miles.
To start BMW parts are more expensive, its known as the BMW TAX. People who cant handle the maintenance after the free maintenance & warranty are termed out should not buy one.
Agree the calipers are expensive MSRP $1326 have never replace one but if I did the out the door price for 34-11-6-891-273 is $800 retail from a dealer. Don't see any showing up yet in the aftermarket but based on other years units sell for about $750 is the charge. Not cheap but the likelihood of killing one it pretty remote. Depending on who you know that has an account at a BMW parts store there are lower mechanics prices for the same item.
As for longevity the longest mine have gone currently are in my 1998 Ranger 4X4 that has highway & off road use still has all 4 of its original calipers on it. Two of my BMW went 9/10 years never needed a caliper. Last was my 1967 Corvette 427 TriPower StingRay Coupe that was sold in the 1990's with the original calipers. Vette was a DD Jersey shore to Wall St most of that time I was in country. They were rebuilt & had stainless steel brake lines added when the originals got soft.
Generally they are crash repair kills where the housing is cracked. Bad fluid can cause issues but Brembo has about 300 individual rebuild kits available to cover its calipers. Think in many cases the calipers can be saved but normal maintenance should preclude the need of having to save them.
Am sure my friend can find some other stupid expensive BMW parts that have a shorter life span.
BTW One of the best places for Acura service is a Honda dealer as a lot of the parts overlap but are cheaper at Honda.....Acura Tax? Based on actual experience.
One experiment that worked out well was replacing the heavy factory 7 leaf steel spring with a Fiberglass 340lb composite spring. Made for a very good ride with bilstein shocks
To start BMW parts are more expensive, its known as the BMW TAX. People who cant handle the maintenance after the free maintenance & warranty are termed out should not buy one.
Agree the calipers are expensive MSRP $1326 have never replace one but if I did the out the door price for 34-11-6-891-273is $800 retail from a dealer. Don't see any showing up yet in the aftermarket but based on other years units sell for about $750 is the charge. Not cheap but the likelihood of killing one it pretty remote. Depending on who you know that has an account at a BMW parts store there are lower mechanics prices for the same item.
As for longevity the longest mine have gone currently are in my 1998 Ranger 4X4 that has highway & off road use still has all 4 of its original calipers on it. Two of my BMW went 9/10 years never needed a caliper. Last was my 1967 Corvette 427 TriPower StingRay Coupe that was sold in the 1990's with the original calipers. Vette was a DD Jersey shore to Wall St most of that time I was in country. They were rebuilt & had stainless steel brake lines added when the originals got soft.
Generally they are crash repair kills where the housing is cracked. Bad fluid can cause issues but Brembo has about 300 individual rebuild kits available to cover its calipers. Think in many cases the calipers can be saved but normal maintenance should preclude the need of having to save them.
Am sure my friend can find some other stupid expensive BMW parts that have a shorter life span.
BTW One of the best places for Acura service is a Honda dealer as a lot of the parts overlap but are cheaper at Honda.....Acura Tax? Based on actual experience.
Many people don’t need to be able to afford the maintenance because they can afford a new car
Looks like the bearing, 44300-TGV-A01 BEARING ASSY. FR. HUB, item #4 below runs $50 state side.
Rather than using a slide hammer, would the proper technique be dissembling the entire front strut assembly to get access to front knuckle, 51211-TGV-A03, and using a press to properly remove and reinstall?
Otherwise without being too invasive, is there a way to remove or press back bearing in place without complete teardown? I was thinking using a socket that matches the OD of the bearing and using a large C-clamp to press in or out if no slide hammer was available perhaps?
Edit: Nevermind, the HF tool that Legend2TL posted works perfectly.
I thought it would be at least 10 years before we start seeing regular TLX dressed up as Type S clones. I didn't think it would happen 6 months into it. Best plot twist would be that this is a FWD TLX they put it on. Imagine going through the trouble to do this to a car that barely gets to 60 in 7 seconds and can't outrun Kia Forte GT. No offense to anyone who owns one.
I guess that is why both Honda and Acura dealer's technicians suggested (and I let them) flush/replace the brake fluid every couple of years. Seemed to really help the brakes work properly and last a long time.
The 2014-MDX Tech/SHAWD never needed a brake-job (with brake shoes and what-not). Sold it after 6 years and 60k miles.
The 2004 Accord-V6 only had one front-brake job in 2010, and one rear-brake-job (shoes finally replaced) in 2013. Sold it in 2020 with 90k miles.
Both really good cars.
Never flushed brake fluid in my life, even cars with 300K miles. If it doesn't leak, leave it alone. Brake fluid is not engine oil. Who told you and with what evidence that replacing brake fluid extends life of brake pads? ROFL
I guess that is why both Honda and Acura dealer's technicians suggested (and I let them) flush/replace the brake fluid every couple of years. Seemed to really help the brakes work properly and last a long time.
The 2014-MDX Tech/SHAWD never needed a brake-job (with brake shoes and what-not). Sold it after 6 years and 60k miles.
The 2004 Accord-V6 only had one front-brake job in 2010, and one rear-brake-job (shoes finally replaced) in 2013. Sold it in 2020 with 90k miles.
Both really good cars.
words of wisdom, doing a brake fluid flush will prevent internal corrosion of master cylinder, brake calipers, lines and most expensive the ABS modulator with the pressure pump, accumulator and solenoid valves.
Originally Posted by loki
Never flushed brake fluid in my life, even cars with 300K miles. If it doesn't leak, leave it alone. Brake fluid is not engine oil. Who told you and with what evidence that replacing brake fluid extends life of brake pads? ROFL
I've never seen a manufacturer not recommend preventive maintenance of brake fluid (DOT3 and DOT4). Brake fluid is hygroscopic meaning it will absorb water over time which will eventually corrode the brake system from inside out over time. Most manufacturers recommend flushing brake fluid every 2-3 years, no matter the mileage. Also when water is absorbed into the brake fluid it reduces the boiling point of the brake fluid to the point the brakes will fade due to the fluid boiling in the calipers and cylinders, so it's also a critical safety factor as well.
Never flushed brake fluid in my life, even cars with 300K miles. If it doesn't leak, leave it alone. Brake fluid is not engine oil. Who told you and with what evidence that replacing brake fluid extends life of brake pads? ROFL
My truck still has the same brake fluid in it. Been topped up with pad/shoe changes. That said brake fluid loves water & will absorb it if it has a chance. Water in the system will damage the polished bores the pistons ride in & can eventually leak past the seals. Can effect both the master & calipers. Don't believe it has any effect on pad life. Some brands do free fluid changes while under warranty or maintenance agreement, some don't.
Think its more important on long term car & trucks than short term ones. Most if not all manufactures recommend a specific time to change. Have no idea if its a profit enhancement or a necessity or if the timing is arbitrary. Expect most cars run the same fluid till the seals fail.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 01-05-2022 at 01:25 PM.
Hayes and their general brake fluid guidelines, one additional thing is brake fluid darkens as it ages and absorbs water so new brake fluid is typically clear (some fluids are tinted colors but majority I've seen are clear)
Looks like the bearing, 44300-TGV-A01 BEARING ASSY. FR. HUB, item #4 below runs $50 state side.
Rather than using a slide hammer, would the proper technique be dissembling the entire front strut assembly to get access to front knuckle, 51211-TGV-A03, and using a press to properly remove and reinstall?
Otherwise without being too invasive, is there a way to remove or press back bearing in place without complete teardown? I was thinking using a socket that matches the OD of the bearing and using a large C-clamp to press in or out if no slide hammer was available perhaps?
Edit: Nevermind, the HF tool that Legend2TL posted works perfectly.
Took a while to remember and think about what I did to remove the splash shield on a Honda I was working on once, punch or C-clamp out one of the wheel studs from the hub if there's enough room in the opening by the caliper hanger. Pretty common way to replace one and they can be reused, then use the hub stud hole opening to remove the three Philips screws for the brake disc shield. Far easier than slide hammering the cartridge wheel bearing apart.
FWIW If you look at that part diagram you posted you notice a line inside the inner race of the wheel bearing. That's for the split inner race (there's a left and right half), that's why in the video if you look at the disassembled wheel bearing you can sorta see the other inner race still in the bearing on the car.
brake fluid darkens as it ages and absorbs water so new brake fluid is typically clear (some fluids are tinted colors but majority I've seen are clear)
Yeah, when I was younger (and inexperienced) I used to think brake-fluid was suppose to be dark-brown or black. Nope, it's suppose to be clear (even when you go to check it).
It's not hard to figure-out. It's similar to worn-out engine oil, transmission oil, etc. And yes, new/cleaner/still-good fluids help the respective sub-system work better. Don't over-think it.
Took a while to remember and think about what I did to remove the splash shield on a Honda I was working on once,
But if I'm understanding correctly, in this video's case ...
To do the job properly (or more like a Type-S comes from the factory) ... the hub needed to be replaced as well.
So, while it's off, you can easily replace the splash shield.
But if I'm understanding correctly, in this video's case ...
To do the job properly (or more like a Type-S comes from the factory) ... the hub needed to be replaced as well.
So, while it's off, you can easily replace the splash shield.
I don't think on a very new car I would dump the hub & bearings.
Looks like a newer car so the HUB & bearing are new, They elected not to replace it & went for the slid hammer. An example of what might be going on at a shop that you would not do at home. The way they could have done it without cracking the bearing which is the quick way is in the vid.
This is the way most DIY would do it at home. DIY guys typically don't have need for a slide hammer I know I don't. This way is time consuming which a shop does not want to take & is why they have slid hammers. The shop in the original vid also does not seem to have torque wrench's for putting stuff back together & something a home shop should have in both in/lb & ft/lb.
Removal would be the same with an older unit having a dead bearing that you were going to throw the whole hub away. For replacing a backing plate the off process would end as the hub is removed.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 01-05-2022 at 05:21 PM.
words of wisdom, doing a brake fluid flush will prevent internal corrosion of master cylinder, brake calipers, lines and most expensive the ABS modulator with the pressure pump, accumulator and solenoid valves.
I've never seen a manufacturer not recommend preventive maintenance of brake fluid (DOT3 and DOT4). Brake fluid is hygroscopic meaning it will absorb water over time which will eventually corrode the brake system from inside out over time. Most manufacturers recommend flushing brake fluid every 2-3 years, no matter the mileage. Also when water is absorbed into the brake fluid it reduces the boiling point of the brake fluid to the point the brakes will fade due to the fluid boiling in the calipers and cylinders, so it's also a critical safety factor as well.
Agree to disagree. Website you're quoting is franchise dealer who purely profits on upselling useless services.
Originally Posted by Legend2TL
Hayes and their general brake fluid guidelines, one additional thing is brake fluid darkens as it ages and absorbs water so new brake fluid is typically clear (some fluids are tinted colors but majority I've seen are clear)
Agree to disagree. Website you're quoting is franchise dealer who purely profits on upselling useless services.
Agreed, but that process can take 20 years and 300K miles. Again, ONLY if there's no air leak in the system and it's airtight.
No, 20 years is just your guess, and mileage is not a factor as it's the exposure to moisture in air that causes it to degrade.
A car's brake fluid is exposed to air and moisture the process starts of brake fluid being absorbing water.
The brake system is not airtight, it's open to the atmosphere so any moisture in the air is present to the brake fluid in the reservoir.
As for how often that depends on the manufacturer, most have a interval, others say to periodically inspect the fluid.
Flushing and replacing brake fluid might cost $100 or less on many vehicles, but replacing rusted brake lines, brake calipers and other brake parts can run several hundreds of dollars, so clearly there’s value in keeping up with maintenance. As a rule of thumb, it’s wise to have the brake fluid inspected and tested for moisture content every few years, and no more than every five if you live in a high-humidity area.
Honda recommends 3 years for brake fluid replacement for their current cars< I'm assuming Acura is the same.
Pretty informative video on why to change brake fluid, There are also moisture strips or meters which can measure the % of water absorbed in brake fluid.
No, 20 years is just some random guess, and mileage is not a factor as it's the exposure to moisture in air that causes it to degrade A car's brake fluid is exposed to air and moisture the process starts of brake fluid being absorbing water, if in average conditions the fluid reaches saturation where safety is a factor guessing ~6 years for typical climate up to ~12 years for dry climates. And the brake system is not airtight, it's open to the atmosphere so any moisture in the air is present to the brake fluid in the reservoir.
AFAIK brake systems are sealed unless its opened for service. If you are careful & replace the cap when you don't need it open to add or remove fluid you should be good to go for a long period or till your own measurement/test says its time to go.
A lot of dealer service recommended service schedules are intended to get you into the shop on a regular basis so you can be upsold on what ever the push of the month is.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 01-06-2022 at 03:09 PM.
AFAIK brake systems are sealed unless its opened for service. If you are careful & replace the cap when you don't need it open to add or remove fluid you should be good to go for a long period or till your own measurement/test says its time to go.
A lot of dealer service recommended service schedules are intended to get you into the shop on a regular basis so you can be upsold on what ever the push of the month is.
Brake systems are not sealed, perhaps splash resistance with the cap O-ring but they're not truly sealed systems. Air and water moisture will seep past eventually to equalize any displacement of brake fluid used for brake pad wear even with those rubber diaphragms on the cover.
Brake systems are not sealed, perhaps splash resistance with the cap O-ring but they're not truly sealed systems. Air and water moisture will seep past eventually to equalize any displacement of brake fluid used for brake pad wear even with those rubber diaphragms on the cover.
How much air is really going to pass through the diaphragms into the fluid as the pads are used? The is no air pressure to force air past the diaphragms which is exactly why they use them.
I have all major systems total seal O-ringed unvented cap. Diaphragms sealed units with vented cap, unvented caps with gasket seals, Plus one vented with out a seal cap. That one has been changed once in 5 years & the fluid was tinted but not opaque.
You are also counting on fluid displacement as the pads are used up to create a strong enough vacuum in the reservoir to pull air in through the seals. The vacuum would also have to be strong enough to exchange the air already in the res which might be very dry. Hard for me to see it outside of a theorical exercise.
For the others the internal pressure would have to drop enough to pull air in through the mechanical seals of the gaskets.
A lot of dealer service recommended service schedules are intended to get you into the shop on a regular basis so you can be upsold on what ever the push of the month is.
Luckily, that was not my experience at all.
All those cars in my sig were bought new at Honda and Acura Dealers, and Dealer-Serviced (at same dealer) during ownership. The Maxima-V6 was Nissan dealer, that same local-owner also owns.
They kept both Accords running over 15 years each. The Maxima and MDX we kept about 6 years each. Prices were fair, and there were some "Honda/Acura out-of-warranty Goodwill repairs". We got good trade-in values on all.
The 2014-MDX has very detailed alpha-numeric "codes" that appear. It was great (nothing missed). For the 6 years we owned the 2014-MDX, Maintenance costs were barely over $100 a year to us (we did everything both the Service Advisors and the MDX itself suggested). Everything else was warranty, recalls, goodwill, etc. Free recent-model loaner SUV.
On the 2004-Accord and the 2014-MDX, we never really used the Extended warranties ... so dealer wrote us a check for 50% of our money back both times.
Last edited by Tesla1856; 01-06-2022 at 03:52 PM.
Reason: typo
01-02-2022, 03:26 PM
words of wisdom, doing a brake fluid flush will prevent internal corrosion of master cylinder, brake calipers, lines and most expensive the ABS modulator with the pressure pump, accumulator and solenoid valves.