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I have had a dar ajar issue for a qwwk, started after I moved apartments and put something in the front seat which possibly pushed against the door. Not 100% sure about that, but I think thats what happened.
The door ajar is on most of the time now when driving. When stationalry and parked, when I push the door from the outside , the ajar light goes off and then comes back on again randomly or when I turn. When driving, when I pull the door on the inside using the handle, same behavior, which is ajar light goes off and then comes back on again randomly.
Randomly car alarm goes off too since the computer probably detects the car being opened.
The door having the problem is the right side front passenger door. I put t pics of the right side front passenger door that has the issue and one pic of the left driver side front door which does not.
Here are some pics of the door which has an issue and I think its not flush for the door which has a problem? Any suggestions please to diagnose or fix this?
Thanks!
Right side passenger front door which has the issue Another pic of the right side passenger front door which has the issue Left side driver door which does not have the issue
Maybe check to see if the passenger side 'striker' plate is in need of an adjustment?
I tried an experiment - I put a metal washer with tape on the door itself - on the other side of the door sensor - so when the door closes, it hits the washer
Problem solved for now - drove around and didnt happen even once even with hard turning.
Is the solution mentioned in the comment help considering this data?
Would it be OK to just continue using the washer solution?
Is the solution mentioned in the comment help considering this data?
Would it be OK to just continue using the washer solution?
If you have limited mechanical skill sets & can live with the misaligned 'gap' on the passenger side door, compared to the driver side door and the door does not leak water into the cabin after a sustained heavy rain storm, then whatever remedy you employ to shut off the door 'ajar' light is your choice.
If you have limited mechanical skill sets & can live with the misaligned 'gap' on the passenger side door, compared to the driver side door and the door does not leak water into the cabin after a sustained heavy rain storm, then whatever remedy you employ to shut off the door 'ajar' light is your choice.
I am just starting to try and work on my own car for the first time in my 50 years of existence, so everything feels a little intimidating initially and I look for the easy way out Like the other thread for my battery question - I cleaned out the battery corrosion for the first time in my life and left the connectors loose! Someone pointed me to it on this forum and it was a DOH moment for me.
I watched some videos for pushing the striker and it seems doable and I will try it today! I just worry I will fuck something up and have to get it to the mechanic and it will cost me a lot
Thanks a lot for all your help - Im actually enjoying working on my car myself - sort of my ASMR it feels like. Just scared at every step initially
basic question - I had called a few mechanics last week, and they said the problem can be anywhere in the emissions system and it could be the purge value, but it doesnt have to be. They are basically asking for $200 to find the issue and additional to fix it. Not sure if they are BS'ing me or its actually true? I do see some folks mention they changed the valve and the code didnt go away - and they had to go to the shop anyways..Should I just replace it or is there a way to confirm if thats the real issue?
Also, I see that I can use the Honda part number 36162-RJA-A01 is suggested to be the same as the acura one and 60 dollars less - is that OK to use for the 2008 Tl-S?
Any recommended sites for good quality or original OEM parts?
basic question - I had called a few mechanics last week, and they said the problem can be anywhere in the emissions system and it could be the purge value, but it doesnt have to be. They are basically asking for $200 to find the issue and additional to fix it. Not sure if they are BS'ing me or its actually true? I do see some folks mention they changed the valve and the code didnt go away - and they had to go to the shop anyways..Should I just replace it or is there a way to confirm if thats the real issue?
Also, I see that I can use the Honda part number 36162-RJA-A01 is suggested to be the same as the acura one and 60 dollars less - is that OK to use for the 2008 Tl-S?
Any recommended sites for good quality or original OEM parts?
Hello
Just checking in to see if anyone has any thoughts on the questions above for this noob!
Also, I see that I can use the Honda part number 36162-RJA-A01 is suggested to be the same as the acura one and 60 dollars less - is that OK to use for the 2008 Tl-S?
Any recommended sites for good quality or original OEM parts?
Just curious, where did you see that Honda 36162-RJA-A01 could be used in place of Acura 36162-RDV-J01?
Fixed this too with your instructions here - deleted the messages first(gas cap and P0145C) and then cleared CEL after disconnecting the battery. Drove for a few miles and looks good for now - nothing has come on yet.
Watched it a few times at 0.5x to see what was being done/
The instructions in that thread you mentioned helped a lot!
Some additional things which I had a little bit of trouble with - removing the lower pipe was a little bit of a struggle, but a bigger struggle was putting the lower pipe back on. There is almost no space and it took 5 mins just for that.
Other things which helped that others mentioned on the thread:
1. Be careful about the nut and washer - removing and screwing back on both. I just loosened it and then took it off by hand. And when putting it back on, put it back on by hand and then tightened it. This was a big help cause if it had fallen on the engine, it would have been an issue.
2. I ordered the Honda OEM part instead of the Acura one like mentioned here - https://www.reddit.com/r/Acura/comme...r_36162rdvj01/ - cost me half. The part itself - https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuin...2-rja-a01.html - got to me in 3 days in California with normal shipping (which cost 10 bucks for shipping).
While I was at it, I changed the hood struts too before this since I was tired of the hood sitting on my head everytime. I bought this one for 32 for both in the store itself - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...7CL3*-49997991
Next is to fix the driver side mirror housing - starting a separate thread about that.
I fixed this, but after a couple of times of using the door, the light comes back on and I have to repeat the same process. I am tightening the screws well from what I can tell. Previously it at least locked when the door ajar came on - now it seems like I cannot even lock all doors unless I really pull from the inside.
Like the other thread for my battery question - I cleaned out the battery corrosion for the first time in my life and left the connectors loose! Someone pointed me to it on this forum and it was a DOH moment for me.