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Bought my 2021 TLX A-Spec in June with 37K miles. Going through the list of items that need to be replaced and started with the PCV Valve.
Time Required:
5 - 20 minutes depending on your aptitude
Tools Needed:
1, 10mm socket
1, 10mm wrench
1 PCV Valve (Part # = 17130-RPY-G01)
Steps:
Open the hood, look for the large wiring harness on the RIGHT side of the engine bay
Use the 10mm socket wrench to take off these 2 10mm bolts and set them aside. Purpose is to loosen the wiring harness to give you more room (picture #1)
Next use the 10mm wrench (I have a ratcheting type wrench) and take off the PCV valve bolt. It may make a 'snapping noise' as you break the factory seal on it (picture #2)
Remove and replace the PCV value. Apply a light layer of grease on the 2 inner O-rings on the new PCV value. - Part # = 17130-RPY-G01
Replace the 3 bolts you took off above. Do not over tighten them because of the plastic surrounding material.
Notes:
The PCV valve is NOT part of the MM. I like to replace them every 30k miles so the valve cover gasket doesn't start leaking due to high pressures in the valve cover due to a clogged PCV. Old PCV, when shaken, makes no sound. NEW PCV when shaken, makes a clicking sound.
Picture #4 is one of my favorite tools - an electric socket wrench. It makes taking off small bolts and trim pieces a snap. My last car - Q60 convertible had 20+ 10mm bolts holding on the bottom plastic protective tray.
NEXT MOD: Replacing the exhaust system with a Type-S exhaust (picking it up this weekend).
Thanks for sharing this. I usually do all of my own maintenance, but after I bought my car CPO I had one free maintenance visit from Acura, so I took it to the dealer with about 32,000 miles on it to perform the B127 maintenance. My SA recommended replacing the PCV but I declined. Glad to know it's easy to do. I may do it myself during my next maintenance job.
What's crazy at the Acura dealer I picked the part up at, they don't even stock these PCV valves. They have to be ordered and they arrive the next day.
More DIY's coming soon. Just replaced my exhaust with a Type S exhaust. Rather simple to do but the new look it gives the car is incredible ORIGINAL on LEFT, TYPE S on the right.
The PCV valve is NOT part of the MM. I like to replace them every 30k miles so the valve cover gasket doesn't start leaking due to high pressures in the valve cover due to a clogged PCV. Old PCV, when shaken, makes no sound. NEW PCV when shaken, makes a clicking sound.
Can the old PCV valve be successfully cleaned out and re-used, e.g. with brake cleaner?
Great question. I tried to soak mine in carb cleaner and even gasoline as mine new one was being shipped. It wasn't able to clear the gunk from it. I suspect if you soak it over night in one of the 2 fluids, it should clean it out though.
because over time it gets gummed up from cylinder gases that are recycled back into the intake side of the engine to be burned again. The pcv gets clogged and eventually creates higher valve cover pressures that will lead to valve cover leaks. Good preventive maintenance to take to keep your engine running well
because over time it gets gummed up from cylinder gases that are recycled back into the intake side of the engine to be burned again. The pcv gets clogged and eventually creates higher valve cover pressures that will lead to valve cover leaks. Good preventive maintenance to take to keep your engine running well
I can't help wonder if some other mechanism is the cause of the PCV failure.. Most if not all of my Accords I've taken to 100,000+ miles and never replaced a PCV valve. One Accord went 240,000 miles, again never replaced the PCV valve. Good quality gas is often said to clean PCV valves and that is believed by many to be marketing hype. But is it, or is there some truth to what they say?.
Maybe the failure point of a PCV is to be "stuck open"? Allowing it to be effectively, worthless? Kind of like a bad thermostat. You may not have symptoms but it's not doing it's job like it should. I know when I pulled mine off, it lost the "clicking sound" and was gummed up. To me, it's worth changing even though the symptoms don't always appear.
Maybe the failure point of a PCV is to be "stuck open"? Allowing it to be effectively, worthless? Kind of like a bad thermostat. You may not have symptoms but it's not doing it's job like it should. I know when I pulled mine off, it lost the "clicking sound" and was gummed up. To me, it's worth changing even though the symptoms don't always appear.
I see little need to spend US$35 to US$40 to replace a PCV valve on a regular time or mileage based interval. Where I live (PA) I have to get an annual emissions check, and as I’ve said never in 10+ vehicles ever had to replace a PCV valve, I’ll continue on relying that it is working properly. My current cars will also throw an appropriate code when needed.
I see little need to spend US$35 to US$40 to replace a PCV valve on a regular time or mileage based interval. Where I live (PA) I have to get an annual emissions check, and as I’ve said never in 10+ vehicles ever had to replace a PCV valve, I’ll continue on relying that it is working properly. My current cars will also throw an appropriate code when needed.
Good for you. My experience on previous cars showed issues with the engine for not changing them. That’s how I learned about excessive manifold pressure leading to gasket leaks. Whatever works for you 👍
Id rather have a peace of mind knowing that I’m addressing a possible problem before it rears it’s head.
Thanks for the share. What type of grease did you use on the PVC before replacing?
It was a high temperature grease (can't recall the brand) that I put on the PCV with a small coating. The idea is to just keep the o-ring from sticking to the valve cover gasket, years later. Not essential, but good practice to make maintenance easier when you pull the PCV off.
Thanks for the share. What type of grease did you use on the PVC before replacing?
Since O-rings are made from synthetic rubbers such as Neoprene or nitrile, there isn't anything special about O-ring grease. Something silicone based is best but can be pricy. There is a product sold at Home Depot, for plumbing (faucets have O-rings) that is about $5 for a 1/2 oz tube.. Danco 1/2 oz waterproof grease.. You could also just run a finger with clean engine oil around the periphery of the O-ring.