So is the conclusion that sway bars aren't really an option for the TL due to the subframe damage risk they pose? This is the first car I've had where I haven't upgraded the sway bars, and I can't seem to get used to the body roll.

 

there's two ways to over come the ripping subframe problem.

stiffer rear springs

or

change the way you drive; so that the rear wheels go evenly over bumps.
remember, the sway bar is a torsion bar.
when one side is up, there is a lot of stress on the other side....

 

iirc, the subframe issue was tied to the aftermarket sway bars being a bit thicker than stock (24mm vs 22mm - don't quote me on that though)...I'm sure if you found one that is in line with stock thickness then you wouldn't have issues.

i personally don't have one, hopefully someone who has more experience can comment

 

that's the whole point of upgrading.
a thicker rear sway bar will help with body roll.

 

thanks justn, not sure why I figured there was any other benefit.

 

my car use to 2 wheel all the time on drive ways when i had the 24mm sway bar.. which pretty much caused the issue of a torn subframe... if i was on flat grounds all day, then no issues would have happened.. its just the stress of the rsb that it puts on the subframe when leaning to one side.



now that the stock one is back on. i no longer do that.. they did come out with a 22mm though.

 

the only other option; and i have not seen one aftermarket anyway, is to have the same thickness sway bar as stock, but significantly stiffer.

Acura Did this for the 07-08 TL type-s versions.
they made the bar the same thickness as of the base TL, but used a different material or process to increase stiffness.

*edit*
it might be easier and more cost effective for aftermarket companies to increase stiffness by increasing thickness.

 

Pot, did you ever try the progress bar on soft?

there are three settings. ( one setting is a hidden one)
soft.
medium
stiff.

soft, you bolt up the sway bar using the bolt holes furthest away.

stiff, you bolt it using the holes closest

medium; use one of each holes.

*Edit* I might have mixed up the bolt hole locations stiff vs soft and vice versa.

 

i had it on the softest settings. I was explained that overall it the bar was too stiff for the subframe to handle.

that is why progress revised it down to 22mm.

 

^cool!
good to know they revised the bar!

 

Sounds like I'll probably avoid risking it then. Weird that my other cars never had that problem, and I usually had them on the stiffest setting.

 

you cant compare other cars to your current car.
for all we know, they were over-engineered for a stiffer sway bar.

p.s. why not get stiffer springs?
this will take care of your body roll and will allow you to add that sway bar.

or

just change your driving habit.

 

My driving habit is not the issue; the car will lean even in moderate curves driving conservatively. I don't want to lower my car, or invest in coilovers to keep it at stock height for this alone. If anything, I think the TL was under-engineered versus the other cars being over-engineered. Sway bars have usually been a cheap investment and I found they are the best solution at improving handling.

For the moment, I'll just accept the fact that the car is going to lean noticeably in curves and leave it at that. I was just hoping there was an easier solution to allow sway bars without risking serious damage.

 

i heard the 22mm revised bar is good.. i am still on the fence on putting the a rsb back on.. costed me 1k to put in a new subframe.

 

This is a problem with the FWD. AWD TL is pretty planted. My current set up hugs hard corners perfectly. Granted I'm running coilovers with stiffer spring rates. Even stock I felt like it handled like a champ.

 

arent stock rsb for awd 22mm already?

 

I believe the AWD has 31mm front, 20mm rear.

I have the AWD but I don't feel like it's very planted. I wish there were some springs with the same ride level but stiffer ratings. That'd be my ideal.

 

Hmm interesting. I mean with the coils my shit is a rock around corners. I don't push it to the limit though. Maybe when I put my stocks on.

 

carbon, trust me, upgrade to 22mm rsb, makes a world of a difference on the rear

i loved the rsb and i wish i could have kept it..

 

I believe you. I three wheel up the driveway so it's not an option for me until my wife and I get our house. Flat driveway only!

 

If you're not tracking the car, the. You really don't need a stiffer sway bar. For daily driving they don't really do anything for you. This is speaking from the AWD prospective, I'm not sure how the FWD handles stock or lowered.

 

the fwd has lots of body roll stock.. lowered helps it a bit, but the rsb helps it by alot.. take it from a guy that went from stock to upgraded and back to stock.. you can feel the difference which is why im on the fence about getting a 22mm rsb... even though progress said i can bring in my 24mm and get 50% off of a 22mm.

 

Yes they do. I don't track my TL but I certainly have owned enough cars, with and without sway bars, to know how they affect the ride on a DD. Sway bars are one of the best upgrades to improve handling.

 

sway or upgrade spring rate, both works fine.

 

The Progress RSB is by far one of the most purchased things we sell in terms of suspension upgrades for the TL. But, a lot of these customers are already lowered with stiffer suspension setups. We really haven't had a lot of problems with upgrading the RSB. It's a great mod, especially on FWD cars. It's going to reduce under-steer and increase over-steer as well as reduce body roll.

Whether you're daily driving, spirited street driving, or tracking the car, it's a great option and it's a noticeable improvement over stock.

 

Is there an option for increasing spring rate without lowering the car? Eibach used to make springs that were stock height that were stiffer than stock. They don't make any, not sure if there are any others that do.

 

all you really have to do is find a spring that has a specific height, spring rate, and diameter and it would work.. it does not have to specify that it fits on the TL online for it to work

 

yes, but you need it to fit over the shock assembly.
that will be the troublesome part.

aftermarket companies already do this for you.

P.S. certain coilovers can be ordered with custom spring rates. and you dont have to drop the car if you dont want to.

I ordered my BC coils with 12kg front and 10kg rear spring rates and have a conservative drop.
not to low, not to high. just perfect

 

A cautionary note on RSBs: Ripped/torn metal aside, you can stick anything on a cars suspension... But just because it fits doesn't mean that the car will handle better. In fact, without real world testing you could turn a good handling car with a little bit of under-steer into an end-swapping beast that puts you into the curb as soon as you lift off the throttle.

 

It makes a WORLD of difference on a FWD. Took mine off in fear that I would end up like potz with a torn subframe. Very tempted to throw it back on, I miss it...

 

on the same boat man.. i am very tempted to put on the revised 22mm. supposedly the mm size is ok and wont do any harm

 

Round and round she goes, where she stops, nobody knows.

It's a gamble. Particularly because most of these aftermarket parts have no real world testing. If you should buy a RSB that is too damn stiff the result will be horrible. Rear lateral trailing swing out (when you lift off the accelerator the rear will break loose and you'll end up facing the curb/wall).

And I'm speaking from experience.

 

i just hate going up drive ways with the rsb.. fucken 2 wheeling it every time.. rather get stiffer sprins + helper springs

 

The RSB, reinforced gussets, and stiffer springs make it a whole new car handling wise.