Bolts stuck - rear camber arms install

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Old 11-23-2015, 12:20 PM
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Bolts stuck - rear camber arms install

I'm trying to install the SPC 3-piece rear camber kit and need advice on how to take out two difficult bolts.

I'm doing this in a garage without a lift (tough to get clearance from some angles) and I've used PB Blaster. I'm not a pro at this by any means so it could be something obvious that I've missed.

1) Control Arm



The eccentric bolt isn't coming out. I got the nut and washer off on the opposite end without any issue. When I turn the bolt head, the bolt just keeps spinning. I've tried to hammer out the bolt, but there isn't much clearance to get a lot of force. Can't fit my impact wrench in there either. Any ideas?

2) Lower Arm B




The bolt that attaches to the car subframe (I think?) is stuck. When I turn the bolt, it loosens about a quarter turn and then goes back to its original place. I think the bolt may have seized to the bushing sleeve and I'm getting the "bounceback" because all I'm doing when turning the bolt is turning the entire rubber section in the bushing. I've tried hammering it out and using an impact wrench with no success. Any ideas for this one?

Thanks for any advice.

Last edited by cauraLT101; 11-23-2015 at 12:22 PM.
Old 11-23-2015, 12:57 PM
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Use a large flathead screw driver to try and pry it out if you can wedge the tip of the screw driver under the bolt head.
Old 11-23-2015, 12:58 PM
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The reason it's spinning is because it already fully unthreaded, it's just sitting loose in there.
Old 11-23-2015, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by wreak
The reason it's spinning is because it already fully unthreaded, it's just sitting loose in there.
Thanks wreak, I'll try prying it off. I'm guessing the threads on the end of the bolt are only for the nut, so once the nut is off, the bolt should just slide out from the assembly?

Hope that will do it. Might have to pry off the other end of the arm since it seemed pretty snug on that side too.
Old 11-23-2015, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by cauraLT101
Thanks wreak, I'll try prying it off. I'm guessing the threads on the end of the bolt are only for the nut, so once the nut is off, the bolt should just slide out from the assembly?
You got it, at this point the only thing holding it in is the pressure between the bushing and the subframe, it just needs a little help getting out. Also if you can get something in the other side to wedge it back and forth while prying that will also help it out. Mechanic gloves are a must when doing this.
Old 11-23-2015, 08:06 PM
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go to walmart and go to the plumbing area. You can buy a benzomatic blue propane torch and ignitor for $10. Use that to heat up the bolts/parts that are seized and it'll help free them.
Old 11-26-2015, 09:47 PM
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To wreak & csmeance - appreciate the advice.

An update - I've tried using a propane torch, pry bars, more hammering/brute force, and more PB Blaster, and only have gotten the bolt on the control arm (diagram 1 above) to budge by about 1/2". No movement on the other lower arm bolt (diagram 2 above).

Some friends have suggested applying more heat, either by holding the torch there longer, or getting someone with a proper acetylene torch to help. I'll give my propane torch another try.

Anyone have experience with cutting through bolts or even through the entire control arm knuckle with an angle grinder or reciprocating saw? Never had to go that far so I'm not sure if it'll work. I doubt I can get enough clearance to just cut at the bolt so I probably would have to cut through the entire knuckle.
Old 11-26-2015, 10:07 PM
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I just went through this pain , get a die grinder and cut the bolt at this point .. New bolt and nut was less than $8 at the dealer
Old 11-26-2015, 11:03 PM
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^ you should replace those bolts anyway, imo.
Old 11-29-2015, 01:54 AM
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Some good news - I was able to remove the control arm (diagram 1) bolt after jacking up the hub just a bit and then giving it a few good hits on the threaded end of the bolt. I didn't think to jack up the hub before, so I guess taking some pressure off the arm helped. Also, letting the PB Blaster soak another 1-2 days probably helped too.

Now for the bad news - for the lower arm (diagram 2), I gave up trying to take the bolt out and tried cutting the whole thing apart. I used a 4.5" angle grinder first to cut off most of the arm to get more clearance to work. Then I tried cutting through the knuckle, but couldn't get all the way through because the knuckle is too far recessed and I'm scuffing up the mounting bracket already. I've posted some before/after pics here.

Any ideas on how to cut through the rest of the knuckle? Please help!






Old 11-30-2015, 08:55 PM
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Update: I ended up taking it to a shop and they were able to use a real (acetylene) torch to get the stuck bolt off. They said they just had to heat up the center bushing area, as opposed to the outside of the knuckle or bolt itself, and that did the trick.

Piece of advice for those attempting this in the future: don't destroy your control arms unless you're absolutely sure you can get everything off cleanly and get a replacement installed. Otherwise, if you get stuck in the middle of the process like me, you won't be able to drive anywhere.

Thanks all for the advice.
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