Knocking Noise From Engine 2014 TL

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Old May 29, 2021 | 12:57 AM
  #1  
Thebigboss's Avatar
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Knocking Noise From Engine 2014 TL

Sound started about 3 weeks ago
Kept getting worse with a deeper tone
Now it wont go pass 20 mph
Just need to know if anyone came across this problem and if so I am all ears 💯
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Last edited by Thebigboss; May 29, 2021 at 01:02 AM.
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Old May 29, 2021 | 01:04 PM
  #2  
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From: willowbrook,il
Timing belt tensioner.
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Old May 30, 2021 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by dzionny_dzionassi
Timing belt tensioner.
Sheeeesh I thought it was something worse 🙏🏽😅
Good lookin out 💯
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Old May 31, 2021 | 06:30 PM
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No, I don't think it is the timing belt tensioner. I have never heard it be that loud. I did a lot of research on my 2012 knocking. started about a year ago and slowly got worse. Ended up being the rear cam had a failed/pitted lobe on cylinder 1 exhaust. replaced the rear cam and the noise stopped.

The back end of the timing belt tensioner sticks out from the timing belt cover right above the oil filter. With the noise that loud, you should be able to put your hand on it while the car is running and feel it knocking if that is truely what it is.

Elaborate on why the car won't go over 20 mph. The timing belt tensioner rattling shouldn't cause that. Do you have any codes being thrown. Why won't it go over 20 MPH?


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Old Jun 2, 2021 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dvd2012tl
No, I don't think it is the timing belt tensioner. I have never heard it be that loud. I did a lot of research on my 2012 knocking. started about a year ago and slowly got worse. Ended up being the rear cam had a failed/pitted lobe on cylinder 1 exhaust. replaced the rear cam and the noise stopped.

The back end of the timing belt tensioner sticks out from the timing belt cover right above the oil filter. With the noise that loud, you should be able to put your hand on it while the car is running and feel it knocking if that is truely what it is.

Elaborate on why the car won't go over 20 mph. The timing belt tensioner rattling shouldn't cause that. Do you have any codes being thrown. Why won't it go over 20 MPH?
Car stays in 1st gear.
VSA System light is on and never been on before
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Old Jun 7, 2021 | 04:38 PM
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BigBoss, The stuck in first gear and VSA light sound like a completely different issue than the knock. At first I thought you might have a bad wheel speed sensor, but you would also have the ABS light on as this stops the ABS system from being able to work.

Possibly could be a transmission input or output speed sensor since you don't have an ABS light.

Is your transmission fluid at the right level? If you lost a lot of transmission fluid, it may stop it from shifting and the knock could be the transmission fluid pump cavitating.
I'm guessing here with this limited info.
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Old Jun 7, 2021 | 06:01 PM
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when I originally read the thread, I like most people skipped the part where it wasnt going past 20mph. lol
that's probably the bigger symptom of the two, as its very hard to discern noises....as everyone's ears are different.

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Old Sep 22, 2021 | 11:54 AM
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how much did it cost to get your real cam replaced? where did you take it?
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Old Sep 22, 2021 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by dvd2012tl
No, I don't think it is the timing belt tensioner. I have never heard it be that loud. I did a lot of research on my 2012 knocking. started about a year ago and slowly got worse. Ended up being the rear cam had a failed/pitted lobe on cylinder 1 exhaust. replaced the rear cam and the noise stopped.

The back end of the timing belt tensioner sticks out from the timing belt cover right above the oil filter. With the noise that loud, you should be able to put your hand on it while the car is running and feel it knocking if that is truely what it is.

Elaborate on why the car won't go over 20 mph. The timing belt tensioner rattling shouldn't cause that. Do you have any codes being thrown. Why won't it go over 20 MPH?

how much did it cost to get your real cam replaced? where did you take it?
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Old Sep 22, 2021 | 03:24 PM
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My 3.7 needed both cams replaced during the oil consumption warranty thing. Looks like they're about $400 USD from online Acura parts shops, but it's the labour that'll get ya.
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Old Sep 24, 2021 | 02:02 AM
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Habeebster, I replaced the cam myself. I matched up the part number with a 2012 Honda Accord and got the cam for 150$. Also needed a new rocker arm which cost 60$. I asked the Honda dealer to sell it to me for mechanic shop discount and they generally will since this is the price you can get these OEM parts for on-line and the dealer wants the business.

If you can do the valve adjustment yourself, you can replace. the cam. I did all this during the 210k mile timing belt replacement. To get the cam off, the timing belt needs to be removed to get the cam sprocket off.

If you don't want to get this far into the engine, I suspect a shop will charge you 2500 to 3000 to do the timing belt replacement, plugs, water pump, tensioner and idler pulley replacement, valve adjustment and cam replacement.

If you have a cam intake lobe failed, the intake rocker arm costs ~300$ as this is the VTEC actuated rocker that must be replaced as a unit. I also have the 2012 shop manual which gave me the sequence and torquing values to remove and replace the rocker arm assembly that must be removed to get the cam out.

This work took me about 3 days as I was very careful having never done this before. A real Honda mechanic with cool tools should be able to do this in a day..
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