Issue with 3rd gear
#1
Issue with 3rd gear
Hi Guys, I have a new-to-me 2010 Acura TL (Manual Tech SH-AWD). Over the past month, shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear has occasionally resulted in a loud grinding noise and it pops back into neutral. Now, I don't have this issue with the other 5 gears, they are very smooth. I have done a decent amount of research and know this was a heavily prevalent issue with the 3G TL (and there was a TSB for this issue), but slightly less prevalent issue with mine and there is no TSB.
I took it to the dealer, they drove it over the course of two days, and claim to not have experienced any issue. I talked to them for a long time about how I found many examples of other 4G TL owners that have had this same problem, and got it fixed under warranty.
I then called Acura Client Relations, and spent about an hour on the phone with them today and spoke to a District Case Manager. Again, they are saying the dealer MUST experience this in person. They really gave me no other options. Since this is an intermittent thing, how did some of you go about getting this fixed? Was it happening often enough for them to experience it? I'd say mine has this symptom about once a day. I've noticed it doesn't happen as much if I really shove it into 3rd gear, but I don't have to do that with any of the others.
I've seen the solution for the GM fluid, but I'm hoping to find a way that Acura will cover this under their warranty, and actually get the source problem fixed.
Any ideas?
I took it to the dealer, they drove it over the course of two days, and claim to not have experienced any issue. I talked to them for a long time about how I found many examples of other 4G TL owners that have had this same problem, and got it fixed under warranty.
I then called Acura Client Relations, and spent about an hour on the phone with them today and spoke to a District Case Manager. Again, they are saying the dealer MUST experience this in person. They really gave me no other options. Since this is an intermittent thing, how did some of you go about getting this fixed? Was it happening often enough for them to experience it? I'd say mine has this symptom about once a day. I've noticed it doesn't happen as much if I really shove it into 3rd gear, but I don't have to do that with any of the others.
I've seen the solution for the GM fluid, but I'm hoping to find a way that Acura will cover this under their warranty, and actually get the source problem fixed.
Any ideas?
#5
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
My MT was also slipping out of third gear on occasion, but I found that simply changing the MTF (with OEM fluid) fixed it for me. It has since returned but still isn't as common as it was before changing the fluid. It's been probably 25k miles.
#6
Resident Dingo
#7
Change to Synchromesh. I did it on my 3G TL-S and never had the issue again. I intend to put it in my 4G as well as the shifting isn't quite as silky smooth as I would like.
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#9
Senior Moderator
Some guys on the 4G TL group have reported that amsoil synchromesh has worked well for them. There's a link to get it for around $10 a quart there.
#10
Have the same car exactly and had the same issue with the addition of kicking itself out of first. Took them on two runs and couldn't duplicate the problem. They had it for the weekend and their master tech had to drive it to move it and it happened to him (kicking out of first). They are currently rebuilding the trans all covered under warranty. I just got lucky. Keep on them, man.
#11
Resident Dingo
But I saw there's people saying the synchromesh melt the gears or something
GM Synchromesh : Long term effect on tranny - Page 2 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center
GM Synchromesh : Long term effect on tranny - Page 2 - 3000GT/Stealth International Message Center
No.
Their gears melted because DSM.
#12
Cruisin'
Firstly, I can personally say that the gm fluid does work. worst case, last option, use it, but whatever you do, don't mention anything about the gm fluid to the dealership ever. I sense that going bad regardless if it doesn't void the warranty.
Also, I think you should make them drive the car right momentarily after it starts and the engine is below normal temperature.Don't wait until the fluids are more warm and I guess more viscous because that can definitely hide the problem you're having.
Lastly, I obviously don't know the exact words you used to explain the problem, and more importantly if you DEMANDED that the problem gets fixed. Im going off nothing here so I'm not sure if i am onto something but I'm going to say it anyways.. you wouldn't be wasting your time at the dealership if there wasn't a problem right? Just remember that and make them understand if they're still being difficult after all your troubles.
Good luck!
Also, I think you should make them drive the car right momentarily after it starts and the engine is below normal temperature.Don't wait until the fluids are more warm and I guess more viscous because that can definitely hide the problem you're having.
Lastly, I obviously don't know the exact words you used to explain the problem, and more importantly if you DEMANDED that the problem gets fixed. Im going off nothing here so I'm not sure if i am onto something but I'm going to say it anyways.. you wouldn't be wasting your time at the dealership if there wasn't a problem right? Just remember that and make them understand if they're still being difficult after all your troubles.
Good luck!
#13
Resident Dingo
I wouldn't even make the GM fluid a last ditch effort. Just put it in your car. It will either get better or the problem will stay the same. If you continue to have issues, then it's likely a hardware issue that will need to be resolved. If that's the case, I guess you could lie to the dealer and tell them you used different fluid but they'll want proof that you can't produce. That GM fluid will not void your warranty. They would need to prove that the GM fluid caused a mechanical issue, which they couldn't. If anything, you've been having problems before you even changed the oil. You can't be faulted for maintaining your vehicle to fix a problem, or avoid a problem getting worse.
Last edited by TheDingo; 11-26-2015 at 12:10 PM.
#14
I had this problem on my 2010 TL 6MT as well. more from 2nd to 3rd. after complaining 3 times to the dealership, they took apart the transmission and found some of the synchros, I think, were bad and needed to be replaced. I think that one of the mechanics had found an SB, but don't quote me on that as this work was done in 2012/13.
Never was an issue on the '05 6mt that I had.
Gregg
Never was an issue on the '05 6mt that I had.
Gregg
#15
Burning Brakes
There are a few factors that can cause shifting problems and they have been mentioned above. You need to ask the dealer to check or test each one. 1. the fluid can be too sticky or not sticky enough and so the synchros will not work properly. Usually a heavy fluid will cause issues (grinding) when it is cold and then get better as it warms up.
Obviously trying different fluids is easy to do relative to the other factors. 2. the synchros may be cracked or otherwise defective. This is fairly common but the trans has to be taken apart to fix it. 3. the shifter could be badly out of adjustment so that sometimes the gears never get properly 100% meshed when you shift. The shifter adjustment must be confirmed OK before you take the step of replacing synchros. You will have to keep at it because it will not fix itself. Sorry for your luck.
Obviously trying different fluids is easy to do relative to the other factors. 2. the synchros may be cracked or otherwise defective. This is fairly common but the trans has to be taken apart to fix it. 3. the shifter could be badly out of adjustment so that sometimes the gears never get properly 100% meshed when you shift. The shifter adjustment must be confirmed OK before you take the step of replacing synchros. You will have to keep at it because it will not fix itself. Sorry for your luck.
#16
Burning Brakes
"Shifting gears" is actually a misnomer. The gears themselves do not move back and forth or in and out, they are all always engaged. When a "shift" occurs, you are really locking or unlocking a gear from the shaft that it rides on, by using the synchros and a gear "hub".
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