will an SH-AWD motor J37A4 fit in the base TL FWD and replace the J35Z6? Pretty much these engines are $50-$100 per 1hp so that alone is a 20hp jump spending $50-$75 per 1hp, gaining 20hp. With more room to grow over the J35Z6.

Main concerns:
1. Will it bolt straight up to the transmission?
3. Will my XLR8 V2 J-Pipe bolt straight up?
4. Will my ecu be able to handle the vtec in intake and exhaust? If not could I use the ecu from the SH-AWD and not run like crap knowing it has no SH-AWD?
5. ASSUMING, I am using my J35Z6 trans I need the flywheel from my J35Z6 for the ring gear correct?

Going to be a good topic let's get it going!

 

Been searching this for a few weeks read alot of threads and just can't seem to find a diagram showing the bolt patterns or any info on the the swap going into a base 4g.

 

Or would the 2010 J35Z6 tsx manual trans fit in the base? That alone would save 20-30whp.

 

I cannot imagine why anybody would want to pull out a solid J35Z6 and replace it with a highly flawed/oil guzzling J37A4. Maybe the reason you're getting no response is because nobody has ever tried such.

 

The engine is actually really stable and quite solid. Honda is very intelligent they can't test long term, People make mistakes. Once you get the oil consumption corrected the engine is an all out monster. The j35z6 wasn't built with less cc to correct a flaw it was built with enough power to move the car. The 3.5 was built a little I wouldn't say better but more reliable in a few ways. I'm not hating on the engine but dollar per hp is the key. If the J37A4 was so bad people wouldn't be putting up with their tl's. I know the SH-AWD is insane but the motor is what drives that.

I am just curious on the good ol' plan B you know. I'm sure it's been done but just seeing how it can be done. I know the tsx had the same engine as the 4g base tl and had a manual fwd version so I am also really wondering on that option as well.

 

LOLz, okay, if you say so.

 

Didn't you know that a 1994 toyota celica driven by Scotty Kilmer is the best car ever made!

Everything else is a endless money pit, especially the useless unreliable J37.

Sell your car and buy a 2006 TL to have the second best car ever made!!!

 

Guys I have an 89 CRX Si for the drag strip / weekend warrior. This topic was started to have my questions answered not to be hated on and shot down. Dopeboy you have the J37A6 the motor is great. All J series are expensive to build that's not the topic though.

 

Coming from the guy who didn't know if he had a Drive by wire or throttle cable

Would like to stay on topic please.

 

Okay tough guy, have fun with your oil burner.

 

The J37A6 had flawed oil rings please do your research before you start spamming a thread you know nothing about. I've been rebuilding engines for 15 years it's not that difficult. Especially if the motor will already be out for checks.

 

A4*

 

I was just joking around because horsey reminds me of that Scotty guy on youtube.

Seriously though I love my car and the J37. My J37 got new pistons, rings, timing belt and spark plugs all for free at the acura dealer. So I am extremely happy and satisfied with the situation. The dual vtec really screams, love the sound too!

If I had the money and time I wouldn't hesitate to build it.

Hope you get get answers you are looking for from someone who actually knows and isn't a habitual J37 hater.

 

Thanks boss, yeah that 3.7 is a monster after rings and everything is fixed! Just seems like it as a solid engine can put out more power than the j35z6. I love my 3.5 but want the dual vtec for sure. The 3.5 stock it's not needed but after being built it's design could result into a flaw. Not sure about putting those heads on the 3.5 at that point or what. Hoping someone replies. I don't mind the auto they built these things like a tank! 30 less whp but yo it's less mechanical errors after you turn off the rev hang!

 

I would suggest RV6 jpipe, I was actually thinking to buy myself low mileage AWD TL for a daily driver...

 

Sorry not trying to be rude but if you read the thread I already state that I have XLR8 v2 Jpipe and full exhaust and RV6 PCD. That was not the questions I asked in this thread.

 

oh i am sorry, i did not see that you have one already, my bad. It will fit.

 

You're trying to say the J37A4 will fit in place of the J35Z6 have you dont that or know someone that has or are you saying the tsx manual trans will fit straight up to the J35Z6? If so how do you know?

 

I am saying that XLR8 will bolt up to the J37A4 engine. Since J37A4 basically same casting of J35Z6. Honda wanted to be cheap and did not want to make new casting for more powerful engine. In order to increase displacement in existing block they had to bore out aluminum cylinder with nikasil coating.
In perfect world honda had to make aluminum block with iron sleeves, but it could not be achieved on same casting, because it would not enough structural strength after boring and sleeve installation. So they decided to go with nikasil honing/plating. On top of that they went with different piston design.
Now I am not sure about TSX trasmission, but you will need J37A4 ECU. And make sure not to get ZDX or MDX ECU,there is no vtec on exhaust side.

 

The 10-14 tsx I believe it was had the same J35Z6 engine so trans would bolt to it the only problem being the computer portions and axels linkage room ect. Was hoping it has been done in 10 years by now. So you are saying you know for sure the J37A4 is the same block casting? So it should bolt straight up to the tyranny? And use the computer from the SH-AWD auto? Now would that throw SH-AWD codes? Any idea on that?

 

J35z6 is a solid engine but the j37a4 juat has 35 more hp out the gate so doing all the same things to the 3.5 I feel the 3.7 will always be 25 hp on top so It's worth the 1,000-1,500. Then the rebuild of course.

 

So does anyone know if the special edition 2012-2014 tsx manual trans will fit in the 2012 TL with no issues? I know I would need all the shifter and pedal stuff. What about the ecu? Should I use the one from the tsx or the sh-awd?

 

I’m going to burst your bubble here, the TSX V6 do not have manual transmissions, auto only. the 2012-14 TSX special edition is the 4cyl so the transmission is not going to bolt up to your V6 without fabricating an adaptor plate.

 

Shhh, @LongLurkerTL12 know best, nothing anybody can say will change his mind, he'll just deflect and distract. I guess that's just a sign of our times.

 

Actually I am very open minded. I love a good back and forth debate or rebuttal. Sometimes you know the facts and sometimes you don't. If the research is there, you have your answer. If the tests are done you have your answer. Some people have done the tests and some people have read the research. You ask a question when you have not read the research or done the tests. In your case you had a biased opinion as did he. You have 0 right to talk about an Engine you don't personally own or owned. Trying to make a mockery of an engine designed by a company with some of the best engineers in the world and you don't even know anything about your own car. Please stop ruining threads some people actually need help and advice. All your doing is ruining Acurazine.

 

Ah, you are right I did read thier specs wrong. I assumed the wasgon was v6 so went down the wrong column that was silly to put the 4cylnin there. Whelp that kills those dreams.

It's hard to read and work at the same time. Read that while working. I work on machines on nightshift and work 14 hours a day with very little sleep living an hour from my job. My apologies. Why would they put a 4cyl in a wagon.

 

Saved me alot of head ache haha thanks!

Now the question still lies if the bolt pattern of the J37A4 is the same as the J35Z6 and use that manual trans and maybe just put a cap on the ujoint portion for the drive shaft for safety reasons if needed.

Just trying to stay in the $100 per hp range and not above.

So I guess I can just swap the swole J37a4 swap at this point with a manual trans and follow the only guide in the forums. Would be nice to just bolt up the 3.7 to my auto first and just gain the 30hp powertrain loss from my auto first. Use the SH-AWD ecu and live with the SH-AWD error. No at that point can that be turned off or will my VSA be turned off as well?

 

LOL, there are a few threads where you would have been well served following the above advice.

 

There is maybe 1 or 2 and I will not go in them to correct my findings and bring alive a dead thread. I posted some info on the intake stock is better, I tested the afe and I made gains. Only downfall is at a stop you suck up hot air very fast going from 65 to 120 degrees within a matter of a few minutes even with doing everything to keep the engine cool.The SRI better suites my highway needs.

Another thread was me saying oh Acura made these the best they can you can't do anything else to them well those first two threads I started reading Acurazine 3g and 4g TL threads from the bottum up so it took a long time to gain the knowledge I have of the 2 cars in with every thread I read. I read earlier threads and people that are moderators posted their findings, later to find out it was all before Ktuner was brought to us.

The only other thread is me saying there is nothing wrong with the FWD TL. It pulls really hard. The Auto is the only downfall. Yeah I want the motor out of the other car. Does not mean the FWD is not a better car. Everyone has their car for a certain purpose. My debate was I did not need SH-AWD due to always being on the highway for an hour at a time to get to work. His reason and desire for the car were just to drive it and an SH-AWD is not needed for everyone. It is however what makes the car super unique and is by far a insane design. I drove both autos and the FWD seemed to fit my needs better.

I only post what I think is right from research I do NOT want to missinform anyone as well as make bad blood. I should not have posted from research on this 4g TL from poasted before 2015 and I know that now. I also have alot of information from acura themselves. I can only post what I've read, mind it be ignorance from conformity or negligence to dig further when the cars were created. At the time those were facts in everyones eyes. I'm here to gain and share knowledge as is everyone else. I'll help anyone on here as I would anyone stuck on the side of the road.

 

Completely agree with you LongLurkerTL12.

My '14 TL SH-AWD was burning oil like f'kin crazy. Over a quart per 500 miles. I knew the moment my oil was low when the drive felt sluggish and slow to respond. Nonetheless, it always was low oil. I literally kept a quart of mobil oil in my trunk with the funnel, lol.

I finally took it to ACURA in Paragon Queens, NY, around 2 months ago. They did the oil consumption test changed my oil and advised me to drive it around for a thousand miles, then come back for a test again. Well, came back and of course, my car was burning oil is crazy.

They did the repairs and it was all covered under my extended warranty, even if not, it was covered under a Acura Recall.

When I tell you the car drives like the day it came off the showroom, you wouldn't even believe it. It has 305 HP and I definitely feel ALL THE 305 NOW. Going on 2 months now and I have not had any issues with the oil consumption and its as smooth as a bowling ball.

So to anyone saying that the J37A4 was a bad engine, I completely disagree. ACURA owned up to their mistake and they made repairs to it properly, they even put me in a loaner (2020 RDX SH-AWD), not the A-SPEC which I was hoping.

 

Did you ever manage to swap the 35 with the 37? And would have the knowledge to know if the shawd would bolt onto the j35 without special modifications? Or maybe minor or even major? Do you know?

 

Ik i would have to do the entire drive train components ans diff and all that but would it fit and work?

 

If you Can buy everything yeah it could happen. Biggest things that might conflict is the wiring harness if that became an issue it's a done deal and a huge head ache, unless you have alot of spare time.. I'm still waiting to see if it's possible. I personally would go 3.7 manual and stay fwd just because I don't need awd. I would have bought that application if I needed it. I'll gladly update the thread when the time comes. Just gotta find a 3.5 and a 3.7 to compare in person. My plan was to drop in the 3.7 until I get a month or 2 of spare time then add the manual trans. Just still searching for more info.

this is my current daily so keeping the mods limited until I get one of my street cars back up and running.

 

Yeah no, i get that. For me its the awd. I drove one a year after getting 13 SE and i wanted to trade for it lol but i just want the handling and grip of the awd but the simplicity of a non tech pack with all the extra BS that didnt come with the SE.
Also do you plan on cosmetic mods of any sorts? Im trying to design a new style of bumper for my TL that isnt a RonJon rip off and can be a benefit for air and be able to more effectively use a CAI, or even FI upgrades

 

FI doesn't really anything done to the bumper or air flow mods. Now if you mean a velocity stack that would look terrible on a TL it already have cool air from factory. The SRI is nice on highway drives but a k&n drop in filter in the stock tubing with a silicone cupler in the place of the accordion part is very nice. Having a custom one built is the best but will need to end in terms of feeding from outside the engine bay. I cut out my fog light areas and put them back in for more air in the bay area and radiator and trans cooler. The SH-AWD is nice but and rsb would help alot after lowering it for grip. Going out of turns just won't be as good. The 3.7 adds atleast 20hp and the manual trans will add 30 so it's really alot if you can get them. But all in all I just want the car to be manual. The auto cant go past like 6500rpms in 4th and our engines are all top end. I've done alot and also have alot of parts waiting to put on.

 

Well yeah a custom fab one is what ive been thinking about leading straight to the bottom left fog light to have maximum sucking power(lol), and yeahh evrryone says just getting the 3.7 would be better but i want my 3.5 to just be awd, and as of rn ktuner is the best way to tune it? Is there really no shop in the states that are experts in the bigger Js?

 

I wouldn't call them bigger J's they are all pretty similar, Ktuner is the way to go for the reason being thwy have more of a reach on what can be tuned per say. The biggest problem is the auto trans itself. The computer will automatically shift top of 4th gear at about 6500 no matter qhat or whatever 120mph is. Nobody can touch that area of the ecu except honda themselves from what I've researched. Just AWD would be terrible. It would be a sad sad car. I could see making the trans lsd and a locked diff but in the end the SH-AWD will always out perform. The J37a4 has vtec on intake and exhaust so it has more room for power aswell as 30 more hp out the gate. Yeah if you want to do a crazy jbuild buy some heads but now you have alot more costum shop work needed. All in all my plan is to get a J37A4 that has had a rebuild and drop it in the car if it fits and make it manual and stay FWD just for a fun daily. I could cap off the coupler I'm sure. Will have the SH-AWD code which trigger vss error so we will see how that plays out doen the road. So my plan is to just get the swap and put it in and stay FWD. If I ever get to making it SH-AWD that would be sweet but one step at a time.

 

Whats a trans lsd? And yeahh ik ive never been able to go past 120 lol but idk, i think if it was built diff. And yes ive been doing research on certain things such as fitting and measurements. As for the ecu lock, i wonder if youd be able to use a different one from a higher end model with a similar engine and drivetrain layout and would be able to use more potential of the Js with the awd

 

best engineers in the world? I'm not so sure about that.