Feeler RV6 09+ TL Precat Deletes and High Flow Precats
#203
Instructor
Got my tracking number today, ceramic pcds will be here soon. I'll be writing a DIY with pics for my 8th gen Accord. I'm assuming 95% of the install will be the same for the TLs.
#204
Apple tech needing a h22a
went to order and you have the deposit and the remaining on the site, do i just put both in the basket or just the deposit for now?
I will order the jpipe and ceramic coated pcd just let me know how you want me to do it.
I will order the jpipe and ceramic coated pcd just let me know how you want me to do it.
#205
2010 EX-L V6 Accord Coupe
#206
Three Wheelin'
I'm so waiting for the HFPC to ship... will have sound clips with the GoPro as soon as I get it installed. I'll also be installing the long tube j-pipe as well... Please ship soon Richie
#208
I received the tracking number for my hfpc set. Looks like only one more week to go.
#211
Instructor
#212
Instructor
As for the DIY, here you go...
https://acurazine.com/forums/4g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-295/diy-ceramic-coated-pcds-843253/
#213
Drifting
I put on a second resonator and it is much quieter and rasp appears to be suppressed but I have an exhaust leak causing a hissing noise currently since I didn't get new gaskets for the j pipe to pcd connection. My existing gaskets were cracked completely in half, richie is sending me a set that will arrive next week.
As for the DIY, here you go...
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=843253
As for the DIY, here you go...
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=843253
#215
Drifting
iTrader: (5)
Just installed my HFPC's! Install took eight hours (seriously), with plenty of speed bumps along the way. I've only driven 35 miles with them on and these are my preliminary opinions/observations: exhaust is mildly louder overall, at top end it's a bit more explosive, the car IS faster; went to 130Mph in 4th EASILY and quickly.
#217
Drifting
iTrader: (5)
These were biggest speed bumps: getting the ybottom radiator bolts, removing the three plastic clips/ties attached to the cat senors and getting the god damn mother f'ing back cat out.
What we did to get past these problems: remove underbody plastic cover to better reach the bottom radiator bolts. No fix for clips, be patient, obvervant, have a lot of light. And for the biggest sob... The work space you have is non existent; you'll need to remove the strut bar, before removing the rear cat you'll also have to remove the heat shields and even then you're going to have to muscle it out.
What we did to get past these problems: remove underbody plastic cover to better reach the bottom radiator bolts. No fix for clips, be patient, obvervant, have a lot of light. And for the biggest sob... The work space you have is non existent; you'll need to remove the strut bar, before removing the rear cat you'll also have to remove the heat shields and even then you're going to have to muscle it out.
#218
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
were you able to pull the cat out the top then for the rear?
Headers were always a bear on the 3.2 motor with that rear bank, but nothing like removing these PCDs looks.
Headers were always a bear on the 3.2 motor with that rear bank, but nothing like removing these PCDs looks.
These were biggest speed bumps: getting the ybottom radiator bolts, removing the three plastic clips/ties attached to the cat senors and getting the god damn mother f'ing back cat out.
What we did to get past these problems: remove underbody plastic cover to better reach the bottom radiator bolts. No fix for clips, be patient, obvervant, have a lot of light. And for the biggest sob... The work space you have is non existent; you'll need to remove the strut bar, before removing the rear cat you'll also have to remove the heat shields and even then you're going to have to muscle it out.
What we did to get past these problems: remove underbody plastic cover to better reach the bottom radiator bolts. No fix for clips, be patient, obvervant, have a lot of light. And for the biggest sob... The work space you have is non existent; you'll need to remove the strut bar, before removing the rear cat you'll also have to remove the heat shields and even then you're going to have to muscle it out.
#221
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (8)
rear was bitch you have to remove the heat shield when the pre cat is actually there then when you do it you have to turn it up side down there and pull it out from a top... its time consuming and lack of space didnt help but we made it car sounds awesome and i love it
#224
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (1)
Well, and you've got a transfer case and a rear-running axle crowding it underneath; that was my fear is you wouldn't be able to get up under there and drop it out.
But hey, you get an extra half inch of clearance by removing the coilpacks, right? What else do you want? </sarcasm>
Ugh...not looking forward to this one.
Waiting on my runners and gaskets to come in, and I'll see about a good 4G TL DIY for this install. Maybe Richie will throw me a few bones off my 3G TL order if I put together a nice professional quality install video for him....nudge nudge, wink wink...
But hey, you get an extra half inch of clearance by removing the coilpacks, right? What else do you want? </sarcasm>
Ugh...not looking forward to this one.
Waiting on my runners and gaskets to come in, and I'll see about a good 4G TL DIY for this install. Maybe Richie will throw me a few bones off my 3G TL order if I put together a nice professional quality install video for him....nudge nudge, wink wink...
#225
WDP 4G
iTrader: (8)
How long did it take to install all 2 pcd? Did you get the HFPC or PCD? I saw in the DIY saying not to jack up your car but what about putting it onto a lift?
These were biggest speed bumps: getting the ybottom radiator bolts, removing the three plastic clips/ties attached to the cat senors and getting the god damn mother f'ing back cat out.
What we did to get past these problems: remove underbody plastic cover to better reach the bottom radiator bolts. No fix for clips, be patient, obvervant, have a lot of light. And for the biggest sob... The work space you have is non existent; you'll need to remove the strut bar, before removing the rear cat you'll also have to remove the heat shields and even then you're going to have to muscle it out.
What we did to get past these problems: remove underbody plastic cover to better reach the bottom radiator bolts. No fix for clips, be patient, obvervant, have a lot of light. And for the biggest sob... The work space you have is non existent; you'll need to remove the strut bar, before removing the rear cat you'll also have to remove the heat shields and even then you're going to have to muscle it out.
#228
Racer
iTrader: (2)
here is quick video that i recorded yesterday when HeartTLs was here
http://youtu.be/3UQ-fWGkegQ
it sounds much better under load
http://youtu.be/3UQ-fWGkegQ
it sounds much better under load
That sounds good... How loud is it inside while at cruising speeds?
#229
Drifting
iTrader: (5)
When I put cuise control on there's a low constant bellow/rumble, i usually keep the music on at 5-10 to drown it out. During WOT it sounds like a v8 American truck; it makes one hell of a noise. The best part of it all is the increase in power. As I was going home from NJ to NY last night there was an Audi S4 (current gen, dunno the year) driving aggressively pass me, eventually we get up to a 3 lane road with a stop light. I rev, he/she rev's (it was dark, couldn't tell), light goes green, I pulled so fkin hard on him till 80 that there were a few car lengths between us. I didn't continue since I had to merge right onto 95N, but I'm sure I would have beat him right up till 130 cut off.
Anyone who's been having doubts about getting rv6 products, GET THEM. Whenever I smash the throttle it's like I'm instantly at 5k+ rpm and vtec starts singing.
Anyone who's been having doubts about getting rv6 products, GET THEM. Whenever I smash the throttle it's like I'm instantly at 5k+ rpm and vtec starts singing.
#235
Hey krazyfiend and prepreludesh, I totally agree with you guys, what is up with Mr. Marco dude?? No one is holding a gun to his head to buy any of this stuff. Why rain one everyone else’s parade? Speaking of BMWs, I just came out of a 2009 335i coupe. The car was in the shop all the time, water pumps, etc. left a real bad taste in my mouth about bimmers. I purchased a 2012 TL SH AWD because of Acura’s reliability and more importantly, because it’s a great driving car. So far all I’ve done was lower the car with H&R springs (for which I’m sure you have some negative comment on why I should have saved my $, or purchased a Porsche) and I felt and enjoyed the improvement in the car immediately. I guess I concur with krazyfiend and prepreludesh, ultimately we are car enthusiasts, and it’s about enjoying your ride and personalizing it. Hey I don’t like every wheel I see on a TL. 22” wheels don’t make much sense to me, but I sure as heck wouldn’t think of posting negative statements about it or questioning someone’s intelligence over it. It’s a personal thing Marco man. Just remember: opinions are like *#@holes, everyone has one and they usually stink!
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tommypenguin (01-16-2012)
#238
WDP 4G
iTrader: (8)
"Ceramic coating can help to lower temperatures in the engine bay as well as prevent corrosion on parts exposed to high temperatures. Due to the lower temperatures in the engine bay horsepower gains up to 5% are not uncommon. Our ceramic coatings can handle temperatures from 1600 to 2000 degrees Fahrenheit, dependent upon the application. "
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