no amp needed
no amp needed
if i get a tube like this
would i still need an amp or one of those amp componets to install?
would i still need an amp or one of those amp componets to install?
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...204BTA1025.PDF
No need for a line converter- the powered Bazooka comes with speaker level inputs.
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...204BTA1025.PDF
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchf...204BTA1025.PDF
I just installed a similar powered sub in my 09 TL, the Infinity Basslink. Made a huge improvement.
The Bazooka you are looking at is very similar. The Bazooka manual recommends using the speaker level (high level) for the input. I think you can do like I did and remove your 8 inch sub and extend it's two wires to the Bazooka. You need to run a 12 gauge wire from your battery, with an inline fuse at the battery, to the trunk. Also need a 12 gauge ground wire from the sub to the car body, I connected to the car body under the back seat on the drivers side where there is a factory ground connection.
My Basslink came with a level control that I mounted in the dash so I can change the bass level. It is a phone type cable that plugs into the sub and I ran it forward to the dash next to the 12 gauge power wire. I love this feature. Bazooka sells it optional for your sub ($28).
The Bazooka you are looking at is very similar. The Bazooka manual recommends using the speaker level (high level) for the input. I think you can do like I did and remove your 8 inch sub and extend it's two wires to the Bazooka. You need to run a 12 gauge wire from your battery, with an inline fuse at the battery, to the trunk. Also need a 12 gauge ground wire from the sub to the car body, I connected to the car body under the back seat on the drivers side where there is a factory ground connection.
My Basslink came with a level control that I mounted in the dash so I can change the bass level. It is a phone type cable that plugs into the sub and I ran it forward to the dash next to the 12 gauge power wire. I love this feature. Bazooka sells it optional for your sub ($28).
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I just installed a similar powered sub in my 09 TL, the Infinity Basslink. Made a huge improvement.
The Bazooka you are looking at is very similar. The Bazooka manual recommends using the speaker level (high level) for the input. I think you can do like I did and remove your 8 inch sub and extend it's two wires to the Bazooka. You need to run a 12 gauge wire from your battery, with an inline fuse at the battery, to the trunk. Also need a 12 gauge ground wire from the sub to the car body, I connected to the car body under the back seat on the drivers side where there is a factory ground connection.
My Basslink came with a level control that I mounted in the dash so I can change the bass level. It is a phone type cable that plugs into the sub and I ran it forward to the dash next to the 12 gauge power wire. I love this feature. Bazooka sells it optional for your sub ($28).
The Bazooka you are looking at is very similar. The Bazooka manual recommends using the speaker level (high level) for the input. I think you can do like I did and remove your 8 inch sub and extend it's two wires to the Bazooka. You need to run a 12 gauge wire from your battery, with an inline fuse at the battery, to the trunk. Also need a 12 gauge ground wire from the sub to the car body, I connected to the car body under the back seat on the drivers side where there is a factory ground connection.
My Basslink came with a level control that I mounted in the dash so I can change the bass level. It is a phone type cable that plugs into the sub and I ran it forward to the dash next to the 12 gauge power wire. I love this feature. Bazooka sells it optional for your sub ($28).
sounds good and easy, any easy way to get the to the stock sub so i can get the wire? which tube better bazooka or bass link?
*****The Basslink doesn't need a remote turn on wire, it senses the speaker input feed and turns itself on/off.
I can't say which is better sounding, the Basslink or Bazooka.
The Basslink costs less and includes the remote adjust which people recommend to buy with the Bazooka.
The stock sub has a connector (as do all your speakers), you could pull down the trunk liner and unplug the speaker wires from the sub but you still have to lengthen them. You can probably cut off the connector and solder/butt splice wire from inside the trunk. I took out the back seats and rear package tray and permanently removed the stock sub figuring it would leave a sound passageway. I cut off the connector and soldered on some 16 gauge wires (lamp cord) and used heat shrink tubing to insulate. I also replaced the 6.5 inch rear deck speakers with Infinity co-axial's since the OEM's are prone to failure as shown in this forum.
*****The Basslink doesn't need a remote turn on wire, it senses the speaker input feed and turns itself on/off.
I can't say which is better sounding, the Basslink or Bazooka.
The Basslink costs less and includes the remote adjust which people recommend to buy with the Bazooka.
*****The Basslink doesn't need a remote turn on wire, it senses the speaker input feed and turns itself on/off.
I can't say which is better sounding, the Basslink or Bazooka.
The Basslink costs less and includes the remote adjust which people recommend to buy with the Bazooka.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...a-72-7800.html
Don't cut off any more of your factory speaker harness connectors
I have cut off ALL of mine because I will never use the factory speakers again. I find it easy to cut and solder plus I believe it makes for a clean and very reliable connection. Now on my 1970 Challenger I am with you.....I would never cut the factory wiring.
Another idea I saw on here is to remove the plastic plug recpticle from the OEM speaker being replaced and solder extension wire to that.
Don't cut off any more of your factory speaker harness connectors. You can buy and use the speaker adapter that Metra makes (72-7800), and it plugs in directly to the connector on the car's wire harness. And if the attached leads are not long enough on the Metra adapter, you can cut its connectors off and extend the Metra wires. I have used this Metra connector on my front and rear speakers and they work great. It is also the same adapter for the factory 8" sub in the rear deck.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...a-72-7800.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...a-72-7800.html
The stock sub has a connector (as do all your speakers), you could pull down the trunk liner and unplug the speaker wires from the sub but you still have to lengthen them. You can probably cut off the connector and solder/butt splice wire from inside the trunk. I took out the back seats and rear package tray and permanently removed the stock sub figuring it would leave a sound passageway. I cut off the connector and soldered on some 16 gauge wires (lamp cord) and used heat shrink tubing to insulate. I also replaced the 6.5 inch rear deck speakers with Infinity co-axial's since the OEM's are prone to failure as shown in this forum.
*****The Basslink doesn't need a remote turn on wire, it senses the speaker input feed and turns itself on/off.
I can't say which is better sounding, the Basslink or Bazooka.
The Basslink costs less and includes the remote adjust which people recommend to buy with the Bazooka.
*****The Basslink doesn't need a remote turn on wire, it senses the speaker input feed and turns itself on/off.
I can't say which is better sounding, the Basslink or Bazooka.
The Basslink costs less and includes the remote adjust which people recommend to buy with the Bazooka.
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