Dash Cam Setup
#1
Keeping TL until 2029
Thread Starter
Dash Cam Setup
I have been doing a lot of research on Dash Cams for a couple of years and I am thinking about setting one up soon. In terms of hardware, I am thinking about this one: Viofo A119 or equivalent.
https://carcamcentral.com/guide/best...-boxes-of-2019
I am wondering if anyone has setup a dash cam recently and has it powered by the fuses (under the steering wheel). I am hoping to get some Tips and Tricks for a 'fast' setup and I didn't want to bump an older post.
I know I need a USB Splitter/Tap for power, a fuse and the fuse number to use to power it.
NOTE: I do not want it to go on when it's in park as I don't drive too much during the week so I don't want it to drain the battery.
THANKS!
https://carcamcentral.com/guide/best...-boxes-of-2019
I am wondering if anyone has setup a dash cam recently and has it powered by the fuses (under the steering wheel). I am hoping to get some Tips and Tricks for a 'fast' setup and I didn't want to bump an older post.
I know I need a USB Splitter/Tap for power, a fuse and the fuse number to use to power it.
NOTE: I do not want it to go on when it's in park as I don't drive too much during the week so I don't want it to drain the battery.
THANKS!
#2
Burning Brakes
I run the Viofo A119 in my 2009; if you go that route, skip the GPS module. There's an issue with the connection between the module (which serves as a mounting bracket as well) and the unit itself, such that the picture will often flicker, and then the unit will start rebooting/powering down and up. One can "wiggle" the unit to restore the connection, but if, like me, you install with it tucked behind the mirror, then you have to move the mirror to see the screen (to make sure the flicker is gone), and it becomes a safety issue while moving. The problem seems to be worse when the unit is warm (sunny days are the worst).
Also, their customer service is the worst.
The footage itself is great, and low light is pretty good. The problem is, you might find that, when you need footage, it's not there, due ot the issue above (I should have mentioned that when it gets into these reboot cycles, no usable footage is produced).
Also, their customer service is the worst.
The footage itself is great, and low light is pretty good. The problem is, you might find that, when you need footage, it's not there, due ot the issue above (I should have mentioned that when it gets into these reboot cycles, no usable footage is produced).
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echodigital (04-25-2019)
#3
10th Gear
I have a 2CH blackvue installed in my TL but the instructions should be more or less the same. I used a couple fuse taps along with something called the "Power magic pro" to control power to the camera and avoid battery drain. If you are only looking to have the camera come on when the car is on use the fuse which goes to the accessory outlet (it should be in your owner's manual) and it will automatically turn off when you shut the car off.
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echodigital (04-25-2019)
#4
I have the Street Guardian SG9663DCPRO on my RDX and love it. I got it also for my TL but then completely forgot/didnt realize the rear brake light sits on top of the rear windshield. will have it installed probably within the next few weeks when I have more free time on my hands
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echodigital (04-25-2019)
#6
Senior Moderator
A119SV2 with the GPS mount, but the power plugs into the camera rather than the mount so if the mount looses power no big deal, camera is still powered!
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echodigital (04-30-2019)
#7
I bought the aukey dr02 because it uses a capacitor. It gets really hot in KS and was afraid the battery would expand from the heat. I ran my wire to the center armrest where there's an outlet.
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echodigital (04-30-2019)
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#8
Instructor
I also have an Aukey DR02 D (dual front and rear cameras) that I actually just set up earlier today.
I didn't even bother with the fuse tap to power the system for now, I just ran the power cable under the front of the headliner, around the top of the A-pillar (the gap between the headliner and the A-pillar, so I didn't remove the pain in the ass A-pillar), down the back of the B-pillar, then under the seat to snake up and back into the center console (there's a tiny pass-thru at the front of where the console lid closes for wires), and plugged the adapter into the socket inside the center console. Rear camera took the same route, just continues around the B-pillar to the rear window, and had to mount the camera just to the left of the third brake light just so it's not right in the center of the window.
Took me about 45-60 mins for both (probably 30 just for the power cable), but I also have the plastic trim removal tools that were invaluable for prying gaps in the headliner and weather stripping to shove cables into.
I didn't even bother with the fuse tap to power the system for now, I just ran the power cable under the front of the headliner, around the top of the A-pillar (the gap between the headliner and the A-pillar, so I didn't remove the pain in the ass A-pillar), down the back of the B-pillar, then under the seat to snake up and back into the center console (there's a tiny pass-thru at the front of where the console lid closes for wires), and plugged the adapter into the socket inside the center console. Rear camera took the same route, just continues around the B-pillar to the rear window, and had to mount the camera just to the left of the third brake light just so it's not right in the center of the window.
Took me about 45-60 mins for both (probably 30 just for the power cable), but I also have the plastic trim removal tools that were invaluable for prying gaps in the headliner and weather stripping to shove cables into.
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echodigital (04-30-2019)
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