clintcoin

First off I just want to say hi and thank you to everyone for all the great threads and advice I have been reading on this forum since I got my TL last spring. This is my first post and I need some advice from 4th Gen TL owners who have installed aftermarket amps and subwoofers into TL's with the ELS system.


I am happy with all of the components in the ELS system except for the subwoofer, which is what I'm looking to remove and install a sealed enclosure with two 10w3v3's. I am trying to figure out the best way to hook my aftermarket amp (JL JX1000) to the factory HU without getting a ton of bass roll-off, distortion, and missing frequencies.

I have read in several places that the ELS system and other new premium audio systems process the sound for each speaker individually and that if I tap into any of the audio signals pre-amplifier I will lose my Nav, blue tooth, XM, etc integration. So it seems my only option(unless I get a unit cable of signal summing) is to tap into the stock subwoofer signal or the speakers in the rear deck. I would also like to be able to control my subwoofer level from my headunit like I do now so tapping off the stock subwoofer signal would be ideal. So here are a couple of questions/scenarios, should I....

1. Use the speaker level-input from my aftermarket amp (JL jx1000) and connect it directly to my factory subwoofer or rear deck speakers after the factory amp.

2. Use an advanced LOC (Audio control LC2i) connected after the factory amp to subwoofer or rear deck speakers. Audio control LC2i claims to be able to restore bass roll-off and minimize the effects caused by the ELS system processing.

3. Use a summing device which can take inputs from my sub, rear, and front speakers and combine them to provide a balanced signal to my amp. I know this would probably be the best option but for the high cost and the fact I'm only upgrading my subwoofer, I'm hoping this won't be necessary.

4. Any suggestions? (preferably from people who have actually worked with/run the ELS system because all of these new "premium audio systems" manipulate the signal differently and who knows maybe the ELS system sends a full signal to the subwoofer and all I need is a high-level input, although I highly doubt it .


5. Will I need a capacitor for my setup, and if so how big?

I will be running:

2x JL Audio 10w3v3-4 Ohm SVC (500 RMS max) run in parallel for final 2 Ohm load

1x JL Audio jx1000 run at 2 Ohms Stable (1000 RMS)



Thanks in advance!


Clint

MikeTL92

Congrats on your first post I still haven't done one yet either! lol
I was starting to do it myself but really did not want to mess with the wiring, I had professional audio shop use a device that runs off the back factory sub and hook that to the amp. I can regulate the bass of the aftermarket sub like if it was the factory one. By the way having the sub working of the factory circuit did not distort the sounds at all, and I have had the system for about 2 years now. Hopefully someone can give you some more specific information that did it themselves. Good luck!

aleo12

I just used a LOC from NVX for my set up. The biggest problem you're going to have is the remote turn on/off for the amp. Some LOC's offer a remote trigger but they're a bit more expensive, or you can run a remote wire with a separate switch that you can use on command (just don't forget to turn off) I tried running the remote wire to a number of fuses on the passenger side but had no luck as they never seemed to turn off and always had constant power.

I wouldn't use a capacitor, they're more for show and don't really do much to help with powering the system, 1000 Watts RMS should run fine with the 4G TL, I run around that power to my setup (two 12" Alpine Type R's).

As mentioned above I also didn't experience any distortion or bass roll-off, my LOC is wired to the factory sub allowing me to control it from the head unit.

Hope this helps!!

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

I also used a LOC off the OEM sub. The one I bought had the remote capability so no running an extra wire. My system is pretty tame so no capacitor was needed.

Click here for the related thread.

MikeTL92

Hey guys to you running subs, just a random question...any of you guys have a rattle now around the back speaker area? It would be around the bottom and top of the windshield. I'm thinking about taking it apart and using dynomat.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

^^^Yes, I had that problem. I'm not proud to admit how I fixed it though. I removed the rear deck and ripped up a towel into small pieces and taped it to the bottom of the deck. It is a waffle type material so it was difficult to get the pieces to stick...not sure how dynamat would work.

My ghetto method did work though, no more rattle!

aleo12

I'm sure mine rattles a whole lot when the subs are turned on (even rattled with just the OEM sub). But the system is too loud to be able to hear that, if you're running more than one sub you probably won't hear the rattle.

clintcoin

Thanks everyone for your input, that's exactly what I needed to know! I'm going to go with the Audio control LC2i LOC that I mentioned above because it comes with the remote turn-on built in, as well as the "Accubass" enhancement just in case there is a little bit of bass roll-off.

I'm going to hold off on the Cap unless my lights start dimming after I install the system...and I might look into putting some sound deadening into the rear deck.

Did anyone remove the stock subwoofer completely? I have heard that it can cause bad harmonics or something if left in the system, not sure if they meant powered or not though...

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I recommend you remove the stock sub. I did it simply for the fact it allows more bass to travel into the cabin. I didn't plan on leaving it connected anyway.

MikeTL92

Thanks for the input! Hey if it works it works! (now to look for some towels lol)


Well I was running stronger subs before and they did a number to the back lol, even with the music turned off it will rattle a little on bumpy roads. Thanks!



Glad you got your info! I would also recommend holding off on the cap, had strong systems never had my lights dim, just get a good amp and sub combo and you will be golden.
P.S.: My factory has been there all along, if you can remove it I say go for it, but I have had no distortion at all, but Bronco is right you will most likely get more bass travel to the cabin.

arpypat

Definitely go with the LC2i LOC, its a great device and I used it in my Altima because I wanted to keep the factory BOSE stereo/amp.

I gave the LOC to my buddy and helped him install it in into his 07 TL-S and he has no complaints! Not sure if your JL amp requires a separate remote wire (some use the just the audio signal), but if it does, you can use that remote wire to both the amp and the LOC.

Bchester6

Memory foam work great for the infamous rattle that plagues us. I also use it under my amps (double sided tape) to reduce vibration noises incurred by normal driving conditions because there's nothing more annoying than hearing that crap. This is especially true for under seat applications.

Bchester6

All extraneous noises must be terminated!!

CruzanTLSH-AWD

use dynomat with mines... trunk lid.. ain't made much of a difference beside my trunk having issues staying up. And no CAP needed just upgraded my Battery and terminals. Soon the rattle where the rear speakers at how this "towel trick" works now?

MikeTL92

I'm waiting for nice weather to take the rear speaker deck apart and get something "cushiony" to reduce the rattles, I will be looking for some memory foam. Alll the rattling loosened up my rear deck.

Thanks for the input on dynomat, it's usually pricy, would have hoped it made more of a difference.

CruzanTLSH-AWD

I got mines from NVX SOUND | Sonic Electronix Search SELF INSTALL easy to do. I put it on the trunk top. With the windows down No rattling.

ICPGr8Milenko

For those that might now know, the newer kicker amps have "Sound Sense". You could use the high level inputs directly into the AMP and not utilize a remote wire and the amp will kick on automatically when it detects the sound. This (if it works, I haven't tried) would negate the need for an LOC.

joeyboy248

good post Im trying to do the same my cousin is a master audio mechanic guy so whatever info and or pics I get I will be sure to post !!!

ShaneilMaharaj

Hey guys Im trying to add a sub to my 2012 Acura as well the only trouble I'm having is finding a hole in the firewall for me to run the power wire through. Just curious as to where you guys ran your power wire

BuckTussa

Here you go.

Mony5us

Hey guys,
I'm new here. Quick Question, Has anyone installed a bass knob? if so where?
Thanks

SerhiyUA

did anybody install ported subwoofer enclosure? Just wondering how would that sound