Anyone know what the torque specs for rear brake calipers?

 

The 'B' indicated rear caliper bolts below are 17 lbf-ft:

The 'B' indicated rear caliper bracket mounting bolts shown are 41 lbft-ft.

 

Also recommend you back the parking brake off or it can catch when you remove the rotor.

 

I appreciate it, thank you.

 

The caliper bolts are not shown in that photo. Do not torque your caliper bolts to 41LB-FT.

IIRC, its something like 16LB-FT. Look it up to be sure.

 

Follow up question: what size are the screws for disk brake rotor set screw for the rear right brake rotor (3.2 v6)?

 

Which one are you referring to, #21 below?

Rear Brake - 2008 Acura TL 4 Door BASE (NAVIGATION) KA 5AT (acurapartswarehouse.com)

 

If yes to the question above, those screws are completely irrelevant and I wouldn't install them - they were only used to keep the discs in place on the assembly line so it was easier to install the caliper. Those screws are a BITCH to remove if they end up seized in the disc. On some cars I've been lucky and can simply crack them loose and remove them with a bulky philips head. Other times, I've been cursing the car gods using a torch and drilling out the old screws because they were seized and wouldn't budge. Make it easier on the next person that has to do discs (whether that's yourself, or someone else) and just leave them out.

 

Yeah, 21 is what I was referring to. They are rusted in place and going nowhere, lol. Think they'll have to be drilled out.

 

Those screws aren't philips head. They are JIS.
With the right tool, they'll come right out.

Just showing an example. You don't need both of these.
https://www.jbtools.com/vessel-9802s...IaAlXjEALw_wcB


The explanation of "they were only used for factory assembly purposes" doesn't make sense. They sell those screws at the parts counter, right?

 

The data below should answer your question, no?


More Information for DORMAN 13824 (rockauto.com)

 

Here is the part number for the exact tool you need.

It is an impact JIS screwdriver. I think I paid $15 or $20.

 

I just removed those screws last summer from my 2005. The screws had never been removed. They were rusted badly but eventually came out using a hand impact and a JIS impact bit. Both linked below.

If you don't want to buy both sets of tools, Brolando's impact screwdriver is also linked below.

If you already tried removing the screws and deformed the heads, drill and save your money.

 

I've drilled thru my fair-share of rotor retaining screws (before finally investing in an impact screwdriver #gamechanger) and in terms of drilling items on a car, they were on the easier side. Once you finally break-thru the bottom of the countersink the head will fly off, and the remaining threads that are still left in the hub should come out by hand.

 

Another option is to replace the stock fastener with M6 flat head/countersunk with hex or torx drive screw rather than the #3 JIS. zinc or CAD platted would be best. stainless is available but probably not necessary. 10mm length is commonly available and will work fine.

I have only had a few I had to destroy to remove but happened to have some of the above handy when going back together and it's worked well.

 

If you use the JIS #3 driver, those screws will almost always come out.

Zinc/Cad plating doesn't do much against road salt. The stock screws are zinc or cadmium posted.

You can use anti seize, however. That does work.

And use the correct tool.

 

can you share what purpose they serve? I’m genuinely asking because i too always parroted the line you stated.

 

Ah man I'm not 100% sure TBH

I know 2 things from personal experience. The rotor screws make it easier to put pads on.

And for front brakes, if you ever have the car jacked up, wheels off, and then use the rotor to steer the wheels from side to side or use the rotor to manipulate the knuckle (like when you're doing axles), the screws prevent the rotor from pushing the caliper pistons back in.

I can't say that the screws are mission critical. But...if they sell them over the counter, they can't just be for factory purposes, is all I'm saying.

I tend to just reinstall them in most cases. And using the #3 JIS allows me to easily remove and reinstall them without damage. So...why not. Not like you're doing brakes every day or even every year.

I think the only Honda I own without rotor screws is my track S2000. The rotors only last a few track days so I leave the screws out out. I can't lie and say I've seen any detriment from leaving them out besides what I mentioned above.

 

that’s a fair assessment and in my experience, to prevent the initial issue you’re mentioning. I just put two of the 5 lugnuts on to help with reassembly

I’m in the “if it ain’t broke” camp. If the screws stay in one piece when I’m doing a brake job, i would put it back on but if i have to drill them out, I’ll leave em off and not purchase new ones.