When can I really open it up?
#1
Cruisin'
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When can I really open it up?
As some of you know, I recently got an SH-AWD automatic. I haven't pushed it really hard yet with the exception of a couple of 4000-5000 RPM quick sprints right after I got it with some buddies in the car (you know how it is, I had to gun it a little )...
So, yes, that may have been a transgression (at least I got that word out of the Tiger BS the last couple of weeks) with my new ride, but my real question is...
When can I really open it up?
500 miles? 1000?
I've heard differing opinions, but I'd rather have my Acura brethren tell me what the deal is...
What say you?
So, yes, that may have been a transgression (at least I got that word out of the Tiger BS the last couple of weeks) with my new ride, but my real question is...
When can I really open it up?
500 miles? 1000?
I've heard differing opinions, but I'd rather have my Acura brethren tell me what the deal is...
What say you?
#3
Grandpa
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For whatever it is worth, the manual recommends easier driving for the first 600 miles.
#6
But that's hard to do sometime if the dealer has the model you want and no one else has it or he gives you a good price. Don't ask me how many miles were on mine but I did get a good deal.
#7
The Sicilian
Just follow the manuals instructions which says 600 miles. It varies with many car companies. I just know that at 1,000 miles I get my oil changed and then get on it whenever I want.
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#8
Suzuka Master
As some of you know, I recently got an SH-AWD automatic. I haven't pushed it really hard yet with the exception of a couple of 4000-5000 RPM quick sprints right after I got it with some buddies in the car (you know how it is, I had to gun it a little )...
So, yes, that may have been a transgression (at least I got that word out of the Tiger BS the last couple of weeks) with my new ride, but my real question is...
When can I really open it up?
500 miles? 1000?
I've heard differing opinions, but I'd rather have my Acura brethren tell me what the deal is...
What say you?
So, yes, that may have been a transgression (at least I got that word out of the Tiger BS the last couple of weeks) with my new ride, but my real question is...
When can I really open it up?
500 miles? 1000?
I've heard differing opinions, but I'd rather have my Acura brethren tell me what the deal is...
What say you?
#9
Cruisin'
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Thanks all, I've never been one to read instructions (started with Nintendo games, continues on with vehicles and other things) especially the behemoth that is the 2010 owners manual. I think one could improve their 1/4-mile times by simply taking the manual out of the car.
600 miles it is!
600 miles it is!
#10
Grandpa
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The computer will vary the time of the first oil change depending on the use of the car.
#11
The dealer wont change your oil unless you have a service indicator. It is a good habit to change the oil after the first 1000 miles. The last thing you want is to start clogging the VTC and VTEC soleniods. There are filters on the soleniods but even they can become clogged
with metal shavings from the initial break in period. This will result in DTC's or poor engine performance. After the first oil change, stick to the recommended service intervals calculated by the ECM. The computer can not account for every variable which is why it is a recommended service indicator. If you want to impress your friends you should have bought a MT. This thing is freaking fast even with the added weight of two other grown men in the car.
with metal shavings from the initial break in period. This will result in DTC's or poor engine performance. After the first oil change, stick to the recommended service intervals calculated by the ECM. The computer can not account for every variable which is why it is a recommended service indicator. If you want to impress your friends you should have bought a MT. This thing is freaking fast even with the added weight of two other grown men in the car.
#12
#15
Drifting
The dealer wont change your oil unless you have a service indicator. It is a good habit to change the oil after the first 1000 miles. The last thing you want is to start clogging the VTC and VTEC soleniods. There are filters on the soleniods but even they can become clogged
with metal shavings from the initial break in period. This will result in DTC's or poor engine performance. After the first oil change, stick to the recommended service intervals calculated by the ECM. The computer can not account for every variable which is why it is a recommended service indicator. If you want to impress your friends you should have bought a MT. This thing is freaking fast even with the added weight of two other grown men in the car.
with metal shavings from the initial break in period. This will result in DTC's or poor engine performance. After the first oil change, stick to the recommended service intervals calculated by the ECM. The computer can not account for every variable which is why it is a recommended service indicator. If you want to impress your friends you should have bought a MT. This thing is freaking fast even with the added weight of two other grown men in the car.
I have to side with the Honda/Acura engineers on this one, if they wanted us to change the oil at 1k miles, the service indicator would inform us.
#16
When I bought my slightly used TL with 2500 miles, the dealer told me that they did an oil change and the oil monitor percentage said 100%. Should I be worried that they drained this so called "different oil"? Oh what is so different about this oil than the one dealers use for an oil change? Sorry for the noob questions but I am clueless when it comes to oil
#17
Suzuka Master
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Love all the "no break in required" comments & WAG numbers for how many miles you need to drive before you can press the car. Amazing how many people on this forum are better educated about the TL' power train then the engineers who designed the car.
If the book says 600 miles it does so for a reason other then adding a tiny bit of heft to the manual.
On the initial oil. What is different about it is when a motor is assembled a specially formulated grease, called assembly lube, is put on all the moving parts that will rub against other parts under pressure like valve lifters, bearings etc.
As the engine is first run this assembly lubricant transfers to the oil & continues to circulate in the motor providing additional lubrication during the break in period that some people tell you is un-needed. Eventually the oil filter collects it & it is removed with the first oil change.
Since 99.9% of the people driving these cars are not engineers or engine builders Honda makes it real easy for you & the first oil/filter change should be done when its indicated by the MID.
If the book says 600 miles it does so for a reason other then adding a tiny bit of heft to the manual.
On the initial oil. What is different about it is when a motor is assembled a specially formulated grease, called assembly lube, is put on all the moving parts that will rub against other parts under pressure like valve lifters, bearings etc.
As the engine is first run this assembly lubricant transfers to the oil & continues to circulate in the motor providing additional lubrication during the break in period that some people tell you is un-needed. Eventually the oil filter collects it & it is removed with the first oil change.
Since 99.9% of the people driving these cars are not engineers or engine builders Honda makes it real easy for you & the first oil/filter change should be done when its indicated by the MID.
#18
Drifting
When I bought my slightly used TL with 2500 miles, the dealer told me that they did an oil change and the oil monitor percentage said 100%. Should I be worried that they drained this so called "different oil"? Oh what is so different about this oil than the one dealers use for an oil change? Sorry for the noob questions but I am clueless when it comes to oil
As Bear says above... do what the manual says... if it says to change the oil when the MID tell you, do it. I thought I read somewhere else (can't find the thread), that someone changed their oil at 4500 miles w/ 50% on the MID, they sent it out for testing and found is still had quite a bit of life left in it.
#19
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=758962
As Bear says above... do what the manual says... if it says to change the oil when the MID tell you, do it. I thought I read somewhere else (can't find the thread), that someone changed their oil at 4500 miles w/ 50% on the MID, they sent it out for testing and found is still had quite a bit of life left in it.
As Bear says above... do what the manual says... if it says to change the oil when the MID tell you, do it. I thought I read somewhere else (can't find the thread), that someone changed their oil at 4500 miles w/ 50% on the MID, they sent it out for testing and found is still had quite a bit of life left in it.
#20
Drifting
I intend to change it when the oil monitor thing says 15% like the manual states but if honda fills their original oil from the factory with a "special" break-in oil like it states in the manual but the dealer performed the oil change before they sold the car to me, the special oil is gone. Would this harm the car? I'll have to call the dealer or Acura to find this out if no one here knows?
But long term effects...I doubt there are any.
#21
I live in SW OH. There's 3 auto plants within 3-4 hours of me. While it's been 2-3 years since I've been to all of them, I have visited them. One is in Marysville, OH (Honda/Acura). Another is in Georgetown, KY ('vette).
Taking tours and seeing those cars come off the line for testing, you guys wouldn't be too worried about break-in on the engine. Understand these have very "green" motors, coming fresh off the assembly line. They rip those cars at high RPMs for relatively sustained periods. While I wasn't in the cars while they were taking them off the line, I'd have to say they hit redline pretty readily, and pretty often.
While I do understand having the brake components "seat" when new, as far as the engines are concerned, if they don't break while they're whizzing them off the new assembly line, I doubt they're going to be harmed by normal driving....even aggressive driving.
I remember asking both tour guides if it hurts the new cars by treating them in such a fashion. Both the Honda/Acura employee, and the 'vette person kind of chuckled. Both said that manufacturing and engineering is so precise and accurate, that if a catastrophic engine failure was going to happen, it would happen when they were taking them off the like like "bats out of hell". I got the impression they drove them like that by design for that very reason.
BTW....if anyone ever gets close to either of these plants, it's worth it to schedule a tour. Really interesting to see. The 'vette plant has a museum right across the street. Well worth stopping there if you're even mildly interested in high performance cars.
In short, drive'm like you stole'm, but go easy on the brakes for 500 miles, or so.
Taking tours and seeing those cars come off the line for testing, you guys wouldn't be too worried about break-in on the engine. Understand these have very "green" motors, coming fresh off the assembly line. They rip those cars at high RPMs for relatively sustained periods. While I wasn't in the cars while they were taking them off the line, I'd have to say they hit redline pretty readily, and pretty often.
While I do understand having the brake components "seat" when new, as far as the engines are concerned, if they don't break while they're whizzing them off the new assembly line, I doubt they're going to be harmed by normal driving....even aggressive driving.
I remember asking both tour guides if it hurts the new cars by treating them in such a fashion. Both the Honda/Acura employee, and the 'vette person kind of chuckled. Both said that manufacturing and engineering is so precise and accurate, that if a catastrophic engine failure was going to happen, it would happen when they were taking them off the like like "bats out of hell". I got the impression they drove them like that by design for that very reason.
BTW....if anyone ever gets close to either of these plants, it's worth it to schedule a tour. Really interesting to see. The 'vette plant has a museum right across the street. Well worth stopping there if you're even mildly interested in high performance cars.
In short, drive'm like you stole'm, but go easy on the brakes for 500 miles, or so.
#22
Suzuka Master
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You expected the tour guide to say something different while the dorks were abusing the cars in front of potential customers? Its not about catastrophic failure its about long term reliability.
I took delivery of my BMW at the factory in South Carolina & the only place I saw the engines being run up was on the computer driven dyno at the end of the assembly line. The guys parking the cars moved them quickly after that but certainly not to the point of abuse. The complementary high speed driving school was done in their cars not your new one.
I built a lot of engines that went from assembly straight to the 1/4 mile starting line. Thing is, those engines would be rebuilt after a number of runs & if one blew up it would be replaced.
The engine in your car is supposed to last 100,000/200,000+ miles & thrashing them because you are too impatient to run 600 or so miles before you do so just takes a bite out of the longevity.
As for the 2500 mile change, I would not lose any sleep over it.
I took delivery of my BMW at the factory in South Carolina & the only place I saw the engines being run up was on the computer driven dyno at the end of the assembly line. The guys parking the cars moved them quickly after that but certainly not to the point of abuse. The complementary high speed driving school was done in their cars not your new one.
I built a lot of engines that went from assembly straight to the 1/4 mile starting line. Thing is, those engines would be rebuilt after a number of runs & if one blew up it would be replaced.
The engine in your car is supposed to last 100,000/200,000+ miles & thrashing them because you are too impatient to run 600 or so miles before you do so just takes a bite out of the longevity.
As for the 2500 mile change, I would not lose any sleep over it.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 01-28-2010 at 04:53 PM.
#23
Thanks for the assurance about my engine. Did some research and came to this website http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm it pretty much claims to do the opposite of whats written in the manual. I know I know that the engineers at Honda knows better than that clown but maybe someone may have insight?
Last edited by kingofire; 01-29-2010 at 12:21 AM.
#24
Well, we've got the people who make the engines saying it's OK to "drive it like you stole it". And, you've got the the lawyers who have input to the owner's manual saying to take it easy for the first several hundred miles.
Either way, I doubt it's going to make much difference with regards to longevity if you take your car up to redline during the first few hundred miles. Running them at sustained redline for a long period of time during break-in? Probably wouldn't be a good idea.
As long as the motor doesn't overheat, I don't see any harm in driving it like you stole it off the dealer's lot. Just go easy on the brakes until they "seat".
BTW....I used to do some bracket racing, too. My motor (Ford 302) was built to run a 1/4 mile at a time, not get 150,000 miles over a long period of time. Big difference between that and a production motor in today's cars.
Bottom line, either follow the owner's manual. Or, drive it like you normally would. It's not like those engines haven't hit redline before....even before it hit your dealership's lot. They have......a number of times (and that doesn't even include possible test drives at the dealership).
Either way, I doubt it's going to make much difference with regards to longevity if you take your car up to redline during the first few hundred miles. Running them at sustained redline for a long period of time during break-in? Probably wouldn't be a good idea.
As long as the motor doesn't overheat, I don't see any harm in driving it like you stole it off the dealer's lot. Just go easy on the brakes until they "seat".
BTW....I used to do some bracket racing, too. My motor (Ford 302) was built to run a 1/4 mile at a time, not get 150,000 miles over a long period of time. Big difference between that and a production motor in today's cars.
Bottom line, either follow the owner's manual. Or, drive it like you normally would. It's not like those engines haven't hit redline before....even before it hit your dealership's lot. They have......a number of times (and that doesn't even include possible test drives at the dealership).
#25
Grandpa
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Thanks for the assurance about my engine. Did some research and came to this website http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm it pretty much claims to do the opposite of whats written in the manual. I know I know that the engineers at Honda knows better than that clown but maybe someone may have insight?
You're not going to be able to have it both ways.
A B18C5 motor that produced Dynojet figures of 182 HP (very high for that motor) lasted three seasons. I think you want your daily driver to last a little longer than that.
#26
Suzuka Master
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Honda tuners have been telling us for about ten years that there is a way to break in a motor that will give you a little more horsepower, and there is a way to break in a motor that will give you an extended life.
You're not going to be able to have it both ways.
You're not going to be able to have it both ways.
Thing is about that site, other then there is nothing new for about 2 years or so, is he is popular because he is telling the no break in people what they want to hear.
Have not seen many, if any other legitimate sites, that recommend his method for a street car. I also like the line "if you blow your motor its not my fault".
As for gaining a little peak power initially rather then a little later, exactly what is the point on a car like the TL?
#27
Taking it easy
Hi, I recently took delivery of my new acura TL this weekend. I've been reading this thread about the break-in period and was curious as to what taking it easy meant. Does that mean there is a certain speed you shouldn't go past. This weekend I was driving it at 75mph, is that considered bad? Or is it just hard accelarations and decelerations? Is there a certain RPM you shoudn't go past? Could someone clarify what is meant by taking it easy. Thanks.
#28
Grandpa
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I suppose it is subjective to some extent, but most people would certainly not engage in full throttle starts or threshold braking in the first 600 miles. :-)
Speaking for myself, I cannot recall an occasion on a public road that I have had to go over 5000 RPM to do what I wanted in this particular car.
Speaking for myself, I cannot recall an occasion on a public road that I have had to go over 5000 RPM to do what I wanted in this particular car.
#29
The Sicilian
Well, we've got the people who make the engines saying it's OK to "drive it like you stole it". And, you've got the the lawyers who have input to the owner's manual saying to take it easy for the first several hundred miles.
Either way, I doubt it's going to make much difference with regards to longevity if you take your car up to redline during the first few hundred miles. Running them at sustained redline for a long period of time during break-in? Probably wouldn't be a good idea.
As long as the motor doesn't overheat, I don't see any harm in driving it like you stole it off the dealer's lot. Just go easy on the brakes until they "seat".
BTW....I used to do some bracket racing, too. My motor (Ford 302) was built to run a 1/4 mile at a time, not get 150,000 miles over a long period of time. Big difference between that and a production motor in today's cars.
Bottom line, either follow the owner's manual. Or, drive it like you normally would. It's not like those engines haven't hit redline before....even before it hit your dealership's lot. They have......a number of times (and that doesn't even include possible test drives at the dealership).
Either way, I doubt it's going to make much difference with regards to longevity if you take your car up to redline during the first few hundred miles. Running them at sustained redline for a long period of time during break-in? Probably wouldn't be a good idea.
As long as the motor doesn't overheat, I don't see any harm in driving it like you stole it off the dealer's lot. Just go easy on the brakes until they "seat".
BTW....I used to do some bracket racing, too. My motor (Ford 302) was built to run a 1/4 mile at a time, not get 150,000 miles over a long period of time. Big difference between that and a production motor in today's cars.
Bottom line, either follow the owner's manual. Or, drive it like you normally would. It's not like those engines haven't hit redline before....even before it hit your dealership's lot. They have......a number of times (and that doesn't even include possible test drives at the dealership).
Not telling everyone to go out and beat on your new TL's 24/7 as this is actually my wifes car and I know she never gets on it.
The key to any engine is lubrication (Oil). Oil to an engine is like the blood for our bodys.If you don't do any maintenance on your car at least make sure you change the oil regularly. And also avoid overheating as well.
Ok now you guys can let loose on the negative comments!!!
#30
Suzuka Master
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12,000 miles?
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