KrisKasprzak

How to change the front and rear brake pads on a 2010 TL SH-AWD.

FoxTL

Great video man!

Tonyware

Good video.

Now, if you go as far as lifting the car up and removing the wheel and removing the pads, you might as well remove the caliper and lubricate the pins bolts and pistons. Not that much more work to do! Going as far as to scrape some rust off the caliper and bracket and spray some silver heat paint on it... is a bonus. I mean you already got dirty hands anyways When you get to the rear calipers, checking the hand/emergency brake tension, cables etc may be a good idea too.

Also, what I like to do for the fronts, instead of the mirror, is to actually turn the wheel left (or right on the right side) just to see if everything is vertically aligned.

However, one question I have is why he didn't add any anti-seize on the back of the pads where they touch the caliper and the bolts. Anti-seize is a good sound eliminator too, for squeaking etc. Not to mention that a year later the last thing you need is seized bolts down there. Also just because the pads make funny noises doesn't mean they have to be replaced, maybe anti-seize on the back of the pads and the caliper piston, can eliminate the sound.

Finally, bed the brakes... but I guess thats another story.

just a few thoughts.

amill

Good video. It always surprises me how easy brakes are to replace yourself with minimal tools yet people pay crazy money for someone else to do it.

I'm going to replace my rotors and pads in the next few weeks. They have alot of life left actually. They were 7/10 and 8/10 at my inspection last month, but they have deposits or something on the rotor in typical honda fashion so I get horrible vibration at higher speeds when braking.

Any tips for properly bedding in the brakes? Also, how much of a nightmare is it going to be to remove that phillips head screw holding the rotor? yikes.

awdflush

Great video. Thanks.

potmilkz

if anyone fails to do this with that video.. i dunno what to tell you...

Tonyware

Out of all the jobs you listed, bleeding the brakes is the most tedious. So, I just take it to the dealership and let them do that. But if you insist, get a good hand pump (like these) and search for some videos on youtube on how to use it to bleed the brakes. I am sure there must be a few.

For the rotors, your biggest concern shouldn't be removing the phillips, it can be removed with one of those screw extractor drill bits. Your biggest concern should be actually removing the rotor that is often stuck! I think the rear one is more tricky, haven't done mine yet but I recall reading that there is an extra bolt somewhere back there. If you can thread a right size bolt in the whole available all the way in, it may release, but no guarantees! Again, there are a few youtube videos on how to do that, search!

real_mckoy

great video simple and anyone can do it ...1 question what about the resurfacing of the rotors ? how would someone implement that if they need to i know they might be tons of videos I guess ill search. Is it that critical to resurface them before slapping on new brakes ... Ive heard some members say yes others saying it is not.. feedback please?

herbert6368

Great video, but anyone knows how to remove the rotor? Front and rear?

TLTesh604

Great video, will definitely have to use this when the time comes. Just a couple things, I see lug nut torque was corrected to 94 ft-lbs but is the carrier bolt torque incorrect as well? Ive seen posts saying they were 101 ft-lbs. Anyone removing the carrier bolts should double check with a manual as well.

bigpete92

awesome video, thanks!

csmeance

resurfacing brake rotors are only done when you are having a "pulsing" or vibration when applying the brakes.

Get a digital caliper from Harbor Freight and measure the thickness of your rotors. The min specs are stamped on the rotor. If the rotor is thicker than that, you can "resurface" them. I don't recommend doing this as the rotors are now thinner and will warp again faster.

Get some good quality after market brake rotors and you'll be set. You can scuff up the rotors with some brillo pads when doing a pad change to ensure that you can bed the rotors with the new pads properly.

LawnPro

Thank you for the great vid!

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Nice video.

614erich

Great Video!! Great picture quality. Keep making videos for us 4G owners. 4G needs a DIY section.