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Took my car in yesterday for routine oil change nd noticed service code B14 was lit on dashboard. Would y'all believe McDaniels Acura wants almost $1600 for the service, smh, damn...
A: Replace Engine Oil B: Replace Engine Oil and Filter. Inspect various systems and components
1: Rotate Tires and check tire pressure and condition
2: Replace air cleaner element, check drive belt and replace dust and pollen filter
3: Replace transmission fluid and transfer fluid (if equipped) 4: Replace spark plugs, replace timing belt (if equipped), inspect water pump, and inspect value clearance
5: Replace Engine Coolant
6: Replace rear differential fluid (if equipped)
You need a timing belt and all that goes with it... That's the biggest maintenance interval a vehicle requires...
My Acura dealer (Walker Acura) wants over $1,800...
That seems about right, let's see what others think!!!
^very good response, mystery!
and I agree. the dealership is hitting you with the timing belt service, which can range anywhere from $400-1200. then looks like they added the oil service.
While on this topic, I have another ? I heard what sounded like a belt noise only when it's hot outside and the car is pretty qarm. After getting up to about 25-30 mph, the belt sqeal is constant, but no squealing while at idle. So, I changed the belt (serpentine ) and the tension pulley but it still does tge same thing. Any chance that this is the timing belt making the squel or is it probably another pully?
without troubleshooting and inspecting your car physically, your guess is as good as ours.
the best way to find out is to trouble shoot, but since you already changed the serpentine belt..kind hard to pin point the noise now...
I would have took off the belt and started the car with out any accessories (a/c, powersteering) hooked up, to see if the noise was/is still present, if noise is still present, you know it's not the accessories, nor the belt or any of its pulleys
I find it interesting when people buy a car at around 90k miles and then complain about the maintenance/repair costs when the car hits around 100k. If a car has a timing belt and you're buying it with this high of miles you should factor these costs ($1,000k+) into the price of the car.
Not speaking specifically of you, OP, just saying.
^speaking in very broad general terms, most people dont understand that a car is a machine that needs to be well lubed and maintained.
and since they dont have the skill to do mechanical work, their only option is to pay that $1000+ price.
OP thats a decent price imo esp if they are doing sparks and valve adjustment too. But there are plenty of shops in SC.
Call around, honda, Acura and reputable indy shops will all have different items that they include or dont include (tensioner seems to be a big one that is hit or miss). im dealing with one shop who says they will replace the oil pump o-ring at the same time for not much more but im waiting to get it in writing.
there are a number of threads around about the service and the cost. or split it up into 3 parts, the TB and water pump as 1 service, the sparks do yourself and then get valve adjustment after.
Next time fill in some basic info as to year, mileage etc.
see the chart i used below...after calling around DFW.
The timing belt (and water pump) change at 105K miles is something I've disliked about the Honda/Acura J (V6) engine for a long time. Find a good small mechanic shop to do the service. It's a common procedure that all mechanics can do. I've performed 3 myself. Also I recommend changing the front main seal during the service. They might try to charge a lot but it shouldn't be more than $30-$40 because the seal is exposed during the timing belt procedure. The seal itself is less than $10
OP thats a decent price imo esp if they are doing sparks and valve adjustment too. But there are plenty of shops in SC.
Call around, honda, Acura and reputable indy shops will all have different items that they include or dont include (tensioner seems to be a big one that is hit or miss). im dealing with one shop who says they will replace the oil pump o-ring at the same time for not much more but im waiting to get it in writing.
there are a number of threads around about the service and the cost. or split it up into 3 parts, the TB and water pump as 1 service, the sparks do yourself and then get valve adjustment after.
Next time fill in some basic info as to year, mileage etc.
see the chart i used below...after calling around DFW.
The timing belt (and water pump) change at 105K miles is something I've disliked about the Honda/Acura J (V6) engine for a long time. Find a good small mechanic shop to do the service. It's a common procedure that all mechanics can do. I've performed 3 myself. Also I recommend changing the front main seal during the service. They might try to charge a lot but it shouldn't be more than $30-$40 because the seal is exposed during the timing belt procedure. The seal itself is less than $10
Yea, I was thinking the same. Calling around today to get some price quotes.
Took my car in yesterday for routine oil change nd noticed service code B14 was lit on dashboard. Would y'all believe McDaniels Acura wants almost $1600 for the service, smh, damn...
It's the timing belt replacement- that's a big job.
Do a valve adjustment while you have the engine half dismantled. Your car will get slightly better fuel economy and the engine will likely run a bit quieter too. With the engine disassembled, it isn't much work to have the valves adjusted.
a valve adjustment is taking a feeler guide and running it underneath the valves, adjusting valves if feeler gauge didnt fit, or was too loose. I did it for the very first time, when I did my Timing belt.
Very easy. just time consuming. as you gotta do it twice. (i'm assuming if you're good at it and have the feel for the drag of the gauge, then once would suffice)
any ole joe, or mechanic can do it
Last edited by justnspace; Sep 7, 2016 at 02:04 PM.
It isn't that complicated, to be honest, however, I'd suggest that someone who is familiar with Hondas do it. I wouldn't just take it to anyone. One thing of note- the engine has to be COMPLETELY cool (room temperature) for the valve adjustment to happen. we're talking some very minor adjustments here and if the engine is warm at all, the expansion of metals is enough to throw it off. Sounds scary, but after I watched it done once it all made sense and wasn't all that complicated. I'd say getting the engine apart to that point is more difficult.
i think OP got the entire service quoted, TB & WP with parts, sparks and Valve adjustment. $1600 is the ballpark for all 3.
but as i stated, call around, find a good place, cheapest isnt necessarily best, but neither is the most expensive....i mean i have 2 Acura Dealerships cheaper than the 3 honda places near me. And consider its a long job, who offers you a loaner etc.
The valve adjustment is a PITA. I've done 3 on H/A V6 and 1 on my son's 4 cyl Accord. None of them "needed" it. They were a few thousands (0.001") out but it didn't run any better or run quieter after. I don't think a few thousands less lift at the valve will make any noticeable difference in performance or gas mileage. The upper intake is supposed to be removed on the V6. I just unbolted it and move it out of the way (front-to-back and vice-versa) as needed. I cursed like Richard Pryor trying to reinstall the valve covers on both V6 and 4 cyl. It's difficult to get all 3 spark plug tube gaskets (4 on 4 cyl) around the tubes at the same time without pinching them. I have an idea for a install-alignment tool (one for each tube) but I don't have free access to a machine shop anymore to have it (them) made. The gasket kit (valve cover, spark plug tubes, seal washers, upper intake) is about $40 or more.
I don't recommend it at 105K miles and I won't be doing mine. For little or no benefit you run the risk of improper adjustment or lose jam nut during procedure which can cause major engine damage.
I'm surprised you have that experience, because on both J series I've owned (2003 Accord V6 and 2006 TL), both were out. Same on my 4 cyl Hondas. Always out. One side generally was over tightened. The other was generally loose. Not by much. As you mentioned, thousands of an inch... but that's all it takes. And that's why you're supposed to do it on a cold engine. Seems minor, but it makes a big difference.
After it's done, fuel economy would slightly improve and valve chatter went down.
For awhile, my friend, a certified Honda technician, would do my valve adjustment once a year. They were always out, by the end of the year, even by just a little.
my dealer charges $799 they said after tax it would be like $8xx i think i will be going to acura doctor Pual he is listed here on the site as a go to member for service and other work that needs to be done..How many miles do you have on the car if you dont mind me asking? and best of luck
^speaking in very broad general terms, most people dont understand that a car is a machine that needs to be well lubed and maintained.
and since they dont have the skill to do mechanical work, their only option is to pay that $1000+ price.
Most of the people that I know that know diddly about cars end up leasing and they love it.
Why would you go to the dealership for an oil change or timing belt?
Find a third-party company specializing in Acura/Honda
I'm having a consumption test done by the dealer so I had to use their parts and labor for the oil change. $40. Why wouldn't I take it to the dealer for an oil change? Timing belt, maybe not.
my dealer charges $799 they said after tax it would be like $8xx i think i will be going to acura doctor Pual he is listed here on the site as a go to member for service and other work that needs to be done..How many miles do you have on the car if you dont mind me asking? and best of luck
I'm having a consumption test done by the dealer so I had to use their parts and labor for the oil change. $40. Why wouldn't I take it to the dealer for an oil change? Timing belt, maybe not.
That's an entirely different scenario.
I'd argue however providing them with receipts and documentation you performed an oil change at proper intervals would suffice. I save the receipt(s) for my M104 filter and Penzoil Platinum 5w20 for every oil change and document the mileage, date changed, etc on the receipt. It'd be tough to argue I didn't perform them when I've got ~20+ receipts of the exact same stuff spread over the course of time. Same goes for my ~25k service - receipts/date for Transfer Case/Tranny/Diff fluid changes.
Regarding going to the dealer otherwise, an oil change is the lowest on the totem pole - that means you get the younger/less careful workers.
Shit, I paid $400 (got a partial refund) for my OEM A-Spec lip kit to be installed and they put a high school dropout who didn't listen to any of my requests (save the instructions, etc) and managed to drill two completely wrong holes in my bumper. If I can't trust them with that, how can I trust them with a $40 oil change?
While on this topic, I have another ? I heard what sounded like a belt noise only when it's hot outside and the car is pretty qarm. After getting up to about 25-30 mph, the belt sqeal is constant, but no squealing while at idle. So, I changed the belt (serpentine ) and the tension pulley but it still does tge same thing. Any chance that this is the timing belt making the squel or is it probably another pully?
Is yours AWD? There's an issue with the propeller shafts, they have these sealed unserviceable bearings which tend to bite the dust. I would search around here to see if what you're experiencing is the same. I had to replace mine a couple months back. The part costs 1000-1400, if this is your problem have a search around the web to compare prices to your dealership. Luckily labor is only about an hour or so, but if you are doing that along with the T-Belt, you could be hurting in the wallet.
This, especially if there is a "winding down sound" after you slow or come to a stop.
Originally Posted by aids333;15858783[b
]Is yours AWD? There's an issue with the propeller shafts, they have these sealed unserviceable bearings which tend to bite the dust. I would search around here to see if what you're experiencing is the same. I had to replace mine a couple months back. The part costs 1000-1400, if this is your problem have a search around the web to compare prices to your dealership. Luckily labor is only about an hour or so, but if you are doing that along with the T-Belt, you could be hurting in the wallet.
A timing belt/water pump replacement on any car is one of the highest maintenance expenses over the life of the car, but you damn sure better do it if you want the car to continue to last...
I had the toughest time getting the crank pulley off.
