When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Took a video but decided not to post. Pretty obvious that when I power brake (in Drive), the engine lifts up pretty good. No in reverse though, reverse was fine. So, assuming the front mounts are bad?
Should I assume transmission mounts are bad, too? (Maybe this explains my other post regarding how the transmission feels "different" to me; maybe its a mount issue).
The million dollar question: Do you kind folks recommend anything other than OEM for motor and transmission mounts? Did some pricing today on Acura OEM Parts - WOW! $600 for the 3 mounts.
how many miles on the car? City or highway or mix?
OEM motor mounts are the way to go most of the the time. Most aftermarket ones don't last or don't have the vac lines that stiffen the mounts when you get on the gas.
Rear mount cushions most of the vibrations, esp when you are in a red-light and in drive. Do you have vibrations at a red-light in drive?
how many miles on the car? City or highway or mix?
OEM motor mounts are the way to go most of the the time. Most aftermarket ones don't last or don't have the vac lines that stiffen the mounts when you get on the gas.
Rear mount cushions most of the vibrations, esp when you are in a red-light and in drive. Do you have vibrations at a red-light in drive?
Thanks for your reply!
2012 with 110K miles.
So I do not notice any vibration at a red light and in drive. Very quiet actually. I dont even notice a bad mount when coming to a stop (you know that weird little feeling right before the car fully stops). I didnt even notice it when pulling into my driveway which has a small grade/hill. I only think about mounts because of how the transmission feels "different" to me. Maybe its the transmission mounts? But also, when I power braked in Drive, the engine lifted up more than it should. When I go to mechanic next week for trans service, I will ask him about if I need mounts and which ones (although I assume all 5 should be done together). Sorry for my possible inability to properly explain. Trying!
A few months ago I bought a complete set of engine mounts from Anker, I'll try to install them this weekend, otherwise driving with 3 out of 4.5 completely torn mounts is not very pleasant.
A few months ago I bought a complete set of engine mounts from Anker, I'll try to install them this weekend, otherwise driving with 3 out of 4.5 completely torn mounts is not very pleasant.
Thanks, I've almost finished it in two hours, but the radiator didn't survive(-$175, but he is 16 years old, so I was not upset.). There's not much room at the front, and touching the sharp side of the mount to the 16-year-old radiator resulted in a tiny, almost invisible micro-stream. So, be extra careful.
At 200,000 miles, the front was completely torn off, the rear was almost torn off, but dry. The mount on the transmission side was full of microcracks, worn out, and flexed twice as much as a new one. But the mount near the ABS seems better and more durable than a new one, so I'll probably keep it.
Thanks, I've almost finished it in two hours, but the radiator didn't survive(-$175, but he is 16 years old, so I was not upset.). There's not much room at the front, and touching the sharp side of the mount to the 16-year-old radiator resulted in a tiny, almost invisible micro-stream. So, be extra careful.
At 200,000 miles, the front was completely torn off, the rear was almost torn off, but dry. The mount on the transmission side was full of microcracks, worn out, and flexed twice as much as a new one. But the mount near the ABS seems better and more durable than a new one, so I'll probably keep it.
Nice work!
Tuesday mechanic will inspect mounts. Guessing mechanic will do more than just "power breaking"? Kinda how you inspected and gave your feedback.
Nice work!
Tuesday mechanic will inspect mounts. Guessing mechanic will do more than just "power breaking"? Kinda how you inspected and gave your feedback.
New radiator - that's OK! 16 years - holy smokes.
Thank you.
The Power Breaking Test said three mounts were gone, but in fact, only the front and rear ones need to be replaced. I finished everything today and only left the removed fan so I can replace the radiator on Tuesday (RockAuto is our everything). With my experience working on these cars, I can say it took me up to three hours to replace the front, rear, and upper transmission mounts. If you take your time, all four upper mounts can be replaced in four hours. The only equipment required is a good daytona or snaop-on jack and piece of 2x6 wood. Car lift is not required.
Thank you.
The Power Breaking Test said three mounts were gone, but in fact, only the front and rear ones need to be replaced. I finished everything today and only left the removed fan so I can replace the radiator on Tuesday (RockAuto is our everything). With my experience working on these cars, I can say it took me up to three hours to replace the front, rear, and upper transmission mounts. If you take your time, all four upper mounts can be replaced in four hours. The only equipment required is a good daytona or snaop-on jack and piece of 2x6 wood. Car lift is not required.
Absolutely not, in the fourth generation TL this job is done simply. The main thing is to be careful with the radiator
Time to call my buddy the pizza box to save the radiator when I have to do the job, or maybe a scrap piece of plexiglass! Great to hear how you did the job, your information is always epic and valuable!
Time to call my buddy the pizza box to save the radiator when I have to do the job, or maybe a scrap piece of plexiglass! Great to hear how you did the job, your information is always epic and valuable!
Thank you very much, yes, I was thinking about getting some thin sheet of plastic to avoid similar situations. At 2022, my wife hit a deer, and now the radiator looks like this. I keep waiting for it to leak so I can replace it, but it never gives in. And this time, I honestly barely touched it and that was it.
Thank you very much, yes, I was thinking about getting some thin sheet of plastic to avoid similar situations. At 2022, my wife hit a deer, and now the radiator looks like this. I keep waiting for it to leak so I can replace it, but it never gives in. And this time, I honestly barely touched it and that was it.
expert motor mount installer! Ever install in las vegas!?
is the radiator too difficult to remove? it would give you a bit more room to work as well no?
Removing the radiator is not difficult, but there are issues with the transmission fluid lines, and there is always a good chance the old radiator may not survive removal and installation.
It may just be my ignorance, i thought the subframe had to be dropped to do the motor mounts on the 3rd gen TL
When I started working as a mechanic 10 years ago, I may have actually lowered the subframe a bit on the 3rd-generation TL, so maybe it's necessary, or I just did it wrong. Although Mitchell gives even less time for this job than on the 4th-generation TL.
This is the extent of concentrated guidance the FSM gives in regards to 3G TL engine mount replacement.
One can find 'piece meal' information; however, you'd have to go through the 'Engine Assembly' areas of the FSM to find it.
Honestly, I didn't enjoy of this experience because the trans lines are underneath, and because of the installed splash shield, I had no desire to get under the car at all. Replacing the radiator on a car lift should be a very simple job.
But I spent 1.5 hours on this job.
It may just be my ignorance, i thought the subframe had to be dropped to do the motor mounts on the 3rd gen TL
I asked and now I'm answering. I was doing some engine mounts on a 2010 MDX today. I had to unscrew the subframe bolts, bend it back, and lift the engine to remove old mount, otherwise I'd have to just drop the subframe.
I asked and now I'm answering. I was doing some engine mounts on a 2010 MDX today. I had to unscrew the subframe bolts, bend it back, and lift the engine to remove old mount, otherwise I'd have to just drop the subframe.
Regarding the original question about engine mounts, always opt for OEM replacements. Just because of how big the job is, after-market mounts will fail far sooner, no matter how they up-sell their product - OEM motor mounts are always a better choice!
Regarding the original question about engine mounts, always opt for OEM replacements. Just because of how big the job is, after-market mounts will fail far sooner, no matter how they up-sell their product - OEM motor mounts are always a better choice!
No one argues that the original is better, but when you are faced with the choice of investing $200 versus $900 in a 16-year-old vehicle with 200k+ miles, then for some reason you automatically want to go with the cheaper one.
No one argues that the original is better, but when you are faced with the choice of investing $200 versus $900 in a 16-year-old vehicle with 200k+ miles, then for some reason you automatically want to go with the cheaper one.
What about when you have a 2012 TL FWD with only 125K miles and is in excellent condition? I want her to see 200K, but I am definitely struggling with the cost of OEM vs aftermarket. Hearing that Altair chose aftermarket makes me feel a little better!
What about when you have a 2012 TL FWD with only 125K miles and is in excellent condition? I want her to see 200K, but I am definitely struggling with the cost of OEM vs aftermarket. Hearing that Altair chose aftermarket makes me feel a little better!
So if you have a problem with your mount, it's most likely the front mount. Replace it separately and that's it. It costs about $250-$300 with delivery.
More on this for other users contemplating motor/transmission mount replacement on 4G TL. Since the current plan is to keep the 2012 TL FWD with 125K miles, I decided to bite the bullet and replace both the upper/lower transmission mounts. I arrived at this decision due to some clunking when going to both P>R and P>D, was also getting moderate vibrations in D with foot on brake, as well as some wonky shifting/slight clunks on my daily drives. I actually thought the transmission was going despite my over maintaining over the past decade.
I went with OEM mounts on both upper and lower, and I have to say there is a vast improvement overall regarding my vibrations, clunking and wonky shifting. I've owed this car since 12K miles and started having flashbacks to how it felt when it was like new. We tend to forget and adapt over a decade I guess. OEM parts were around $300 with shipping and installation wasn't too bad. Took me about 4 hours from start to finish as I took my time and don't have access to a lift. Top mount was obviously easier to get to and replace.
I am now throwing around replacing the front/back/side motor mounts in 2026 when I get the rear main/drive plate issue resolved.
The front one is torn off, the back one is probably okay.
I want OEM front, side, and upper tranny but cost.....
I bought a full aftermarket set years ago off of rockauto for my 2000 acura tl. I was very satisfied.
Debating....
