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I want OEM front, side, and upper tranny but cost.....
I bought a full aftermarket set years ago off of rockauto for my 2000 acura tl. I was very satisfied.
Debating....
The front one is torn off, the back one is probably okay.
I'm going to have the front, side, and top tranny mounts replaced. Do you recommend doing the rear mount at same time?
also, I am going with Anchor brand.
I'm going to have the front, side, and top tranny mounts replaced. Do you recommend doing the rear mount at same time?
also, I am going with Anchor brand.
The video only shows the front mount is dead, so It's up to you.
I just replaced front motor mount yesterday, I replaced the engine 2 weeks ago, but every time i shift from P to D or R it hear clunk sound, it it was a truck I would think it was a Ujoint, I assumed it was front mount that was torn , but replacing it i still get clunk then shifting
I just replaced front motor mount yesterday, I replaced the engine 2 weeks ago, but every time i shift from P to D or R it hear clunk sound, it it was a truck I would think it was a Ujoint, I assumed it was front mount that was torn , but replacing it i still get clunk then shifting
When I bought my 2013 RDX in 2015 with 100,000 miles on it, it had this clunk noise. It's still there now at 210,000. Similarly, when I bought a 2009 TL in 2016 with 120,000 miles on it, it also had this clunk noise, along with a whining noise in park and neutral. It's still there now at 200,000, and all of these symptoms are still there. This is a characteristic of old Honda gear type automatic transmissions; that's how they work, and if you don't like it, you need to get a new car.
This fork makes this clunk noise because it is not a classic automatic like other car manufacturers.
My 2012 TL also makes a slight whine when accelerating. You know, the kind that you hear but when you ask your wife if she hears it, she says, "I don't hear anything".
My 2000 TL made louder whine for the 9 years I owned it, even after a rebuild.
I guess I get a clunk from park to reverse, but also it seems that it's only when I'm parked in driveway which is on an incline.
I just replaced front motor mount yesterday, I replaced the engine 2 weeks ago, but every time i shift from P to D or R it hear clunk sound, it it was a truck I would think it was a Ujoint, I assumed it was front mount that was torn , but replacing it i still get clunk then shifting
I would replace the upper transmission mount. Any movement/clunking I was experiencing with shifting/driving is now non-existent after replacing with OEM upper trans mount.
My 2012 TL also makes a slight whine when accelerating. You know, the kind that you hear but when you ask your wife if she hears it, she says, "I don't hear anything".
My 2000 TL made louder whine for the 9 years I owned it, even after a rebuild.
I guess I get a clunk from park to reverse, but also it seems that it's only when I'm parked in driveway which is on an incline.
Minor clunk when shifting from Park to Drive/Reverse on incline is normal as this mechanism is designed to keep wear off the actual gears in these situations. My 2012 TL has always done this since 11K miles when I acquired.
Aftermarket mounts installed.
no issues.
Vibrations solved.
Feels better when driving.
but...mechanic charged 7 hours labor even though he completed job in under 3.5 hours. I confronted mechanic about it and he basically said "too bad ". $1000 install seems ridiculous. Upset because now I think I lost a mechanic who I really respected and liked. Damn.
Aftermarket mounts installed.
no issues.
Vibrations solved.
Feels better when driving.
but...mechanic charged 7 hours labor even though he completed job in under 3.5 hours. I confronted mechanic about it and he basically said "too bad ". $1000 install seems ridiculous. Upset because now I think I lost a mechanic who I really respected and liked. Damn.
Book time vs actual time! Even if it took him 3.5hrs actual time vs 7 hrs book time, it's because he's a pro and has the right tools. Conversely if the job took him 9 hours to do, they should only charge book time and not the extra 2 hrs. That's why some shops will hold onto the car for an extra day even if they got the job done; just to make you think that it took the full time.
That's how it goes with mechanics these days; and mechanics get screwed on warranty repairs with that time being very short.
If it's shop I can understand, but private person would have said hey give me X amount for it vs charging by the book time from mitchell/alldata/etc companies.
Book time vs actual time! Even if it took him 3.5hrs actual time vs 7 hrs book time, it's because he's a pro and has the right tools. Conversely if the job took him 9 hours to do, they should only charge book time and not the extra 2 hrs. That's why some shops will hold onto the car for an extra day even if they got the job done; just to make you think that it took the full time.
That's how it goes with mechanics these days; and mechanics get screwed on warranty repairs with that time being very short.
If it's shop I can understand, but private person would have said hey give me X amount for it vs charging by the book time from mitchell/alldata/etc companies.
I agree with every word; that's exactly how it works. I didn't like it either before, which is why I became an automotive technician. Now I do all of this myself and don't pay anyone.
Chiming in because I'm about to throw some Anchor mounts in my RDX. At just under $200 for a set of four it was about a 5th of the price of OEM.
Doesn't look like the subframe needs to be dropped on this car, but the FSM has a very specific order for tightening all the bolts. Book time is 2.1 hours for all four mounts. Challenge accepted.
Chiming in because I'm about to throw some Anchor mounts in my RDX. At just under $200 for a set of four it was about a 5th of the price of OEM.
Doesn't look like the subframe needs to be dropped on this car, but the FSM has a very specific order for tightening all the bolts. Book time is 2.1 hours for all four mounts. Challenge accepted.
I'm seeing 2.1 on my 2011. Must be a lot more complicated on the 2nd gen RDX.
Spent a couple hours but only got the trans mount & lower torque rod done. Waiting for my new VTC oil control valve to arrive before doing the engine side mount since the latter needs to come out in order to access the former.
Side note: no idea what the front and rear mounts are here - there's only the left side trans mount, right side engine mount + upper torque rod, and bottom tq rod.
Last edited by EasyLoveRDX; Dec 22, 2025 at 07:32 AM.
Aftermarket mounts installed.
no issues.
Vibrations solved.
Feels better when driving.
but...mechanic charged 7 hours labor even though he completed job in under 3.5 hours. I confronted mechanic about it and he basically said "too bad ". $1000 install seems ridiculous. Upset because now I think I lost a mechanic who I really respected and liked. Damn.
All five (two trans and three motor) mounts replaced for $1000.00?
My shop quoted me around $290 for the two trans mounts. I ended up changing myself, but took me almost 4 hours total of my Saturday time.
Last edited by Flyinblyian; Dec 22, 2025 at 04:37 PM.
Reason: Add
I only pay for Alldata for my 1st gen RDX. I don't have access to book times for other models, sorry.
But for what it's worth.., for me book time doesn't represent the actual amount of time it should take, but rather just how much of a pain in the ass the job is.
On the one hand, book time for my cabin air filter is 0.5 and I can change that out in like 5 minutes.
On the other hand, 1.2 for both lower ball joints... that's fine except when the castle nut is literally rust-welded to the knuckle, and it takes a gallon of PB blaster, a butane torch and 3-foot cheater bar to break it free.
