I have an 08 TL base and was thinking about upgrading the sway bars.
What are the stock sizes base?
What are the stock sizes S type?

I have seen only the rear changed, why is that?

Thanks, Kevin

 

base is a 17mm bar
type-s is a 20mm bar

upgraded sway bars usually are 22,24,and so on.

rear sway bars reduce body roll and improve handling on fwd cars, the TL.

read this link. http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Rear-...9/article.html

 

There is so much info out there on this subject. Just do a search. I don't feel like re-writing it.

 

^I always wondered why you never quoted yourself instead of writing everything out each time some one has a question that you are so well versed in.

 

Because it would take more time to go back and find the post and quote it lol. Most of the stuff I type is done very quickly and not proof read so I really don't take that much time with it. I really should go back and give it some thought but I'm usually posting in between the boss walking by.

Maybe I'll start getting a bunch of links together on the home computer that I can just reference.

 

^ whats up Matt..you get your window fixed yet?

 

Nope. I thought I had free glass replacement but it turns out it was free glass repair so I'm stuck until I have $500 to waste.

A friend of mine has a fight in your area in a couple weeks. Let me know if you want to get a beer.

 

Now that I'm bored I'll give the extremely short version....

Most people do just the rear because the TL understeers stock. The front tires break free first and the car pushes or veers off course or in a straight line. Installing a stiffer rear bar balances it out better so that the front grips better. Installing a larger rear bar makes the front grip better contrary to popular belief. Go too stiff on the rear and the car gets tail happy or oversteering.

I've done both becuase just a rear bar was not enough for sticky tires. I have a 28MM adjustable front in the soft setting with a 24mm rear in the firm setting. I use these settings to get the handling balance I want. The front bar in stiff would make it understeer too much. The rear bar in soft would make it understeer too much.

There are issues with swaybars that are too stiff especially when you're running stock rate springs. When entering a hard corner on the brakes, mine tends to lock the inside tire much easier. The large swaybar is trying to lift the inside tire off the ground. A large rear bar does the same thing on the rear, it can lift the inside rear tire when run on sticky tires.

It's all about compromises. If it were a race car and you didn't care about comfort you would go with a very stiff spring and stock-like swaybar diameters. Ideally, swaybars should be used to fine tune the handling. On the street in a daily driver where you have to compromise, swaybars can reduce bodyroll while not impacting ride comfort that way equally stiff springs would. The compromise of course is trying to lift that inside tire.

Keep in mind that if you really want to get the handling dialed in perfectly, you need an adjustable shock to compliment the swaybars. The swaybar is a spring and you need more rebound control in the shock to control it properly.

If you do auto-x you will probably want a very stiff rear bar so the car is a little tail happy. These courses usually have tight low speed corners where it's good to have the rear a little loose.

If you like high speed stability, I would do something like the H&R front/rear swaybar package. Doing front and rear will really help with high speed cornering and stability.

Keep in mind, even my GN ran a factory 32mm front swaybar and it now has a 40mm rear bar so the TL's offerings are somewhat conservative as long as you mix them properly. Run a 24mm rear bar in the firm position with the factory 25mm hollow front bar and it's going to be tailhappy.

 

OEM windshield manufacturer is APTech. It says APTech in the corner along with Honda. If you don't mind not having the word Honda on it, it should be around $400. I found the OEM APTech glass to be very soft yet brittle as well. The smallest rock would leave a white pit. After cracking both the original windshield and then the replacement APTech, I swapped to PPG for $300. This one has been a champ and I still do not see any marks on it 10 months later...

 

I wish i knew a quarter of what u know.. I gotta start hitting the books on these things haha

 

lol i always think the exact same thing.

 

I ordered a stock Type S 20 mm bar (rear) from the dealer with bushing for under $40.00. I figuired this would be a resonable set up.

Thanks

 

The TL-S RSB will definitely help neutralize the balance - especially if you're planning to keep the stock FSB.