Proper way to adjust height on F&F Coilover
06-20-2011, 10:14 PM
#1
Proper way to adjust height on F&F Coilover
hey guys i'm getting my driver rear end link fixed sometime this week and was wondering what's the proper way to adjusting these coils?
they are already put on the car. i've seen some videos but kinda confused. here's a picture so maybe you guys can help me out
to adjust the ride height, which portion do i loosen?
i took my car to a friend today to help raise my rear a bit and he was adjusting the top part circled in blue. we kept spinning the blue portion up, not by much maybe 5-7MM. i couldn't tell if it made the car raise up or what...
from some videos i been watching they said the top portion is to adjust the spring rates. well if that's the case, than DAMN i just fucked up the spring rates on my rear because of this idiot!
so are you supposed to adjust ride height by adjusting the rings i circled in yellow? and if so, how do you adjust it with the coils on the car? i seen videos of people loosening the ring at the bottom and spun it around so it would actually raise or lower, but my coils are attached to the car, i won't be able to spin it after i loosen the golden ring!
they are already put on the car. i've seen some videos but kinda confused. here's a picture so maybe you guys can help me out
to adjust the ride height, which portion do i loosen?
i took my car to a friend today to help raise my rear a bit and he was adjusting the top part circled in blue. we kept spinning the blue portion up, not by much maybe 5-7MM. i couldn't tell if it made the car raise up or what...
from some videos i been watching they said the top portion is to adjust the spring rates. well if that's the case, than DAMN i just fucked up the spring rates on my rear because of this idiot!
so are you supposed to adjust ride height by adjusting the rings i circled in yellow? and if so, how do you adjust it with the coils on the car? i seen videos of people loosening the ring at the bottom and spun it around so it would actually raise or lower, but my coils are attached to the car, i won't be able to spin it after i loosen the golden ring!
06-20-2011, 10:45 PM
#2
loosen the bottom spanner nut...the top two should be tight and locked together...after the bottom nut is loose, use the larger wrench to spin the middle spanner nut...this should make the whole damper body spin...if you are looking at it from the top, clockwise is lowering, counterclockwise is raising. hope this helps...
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vietxquangstah (06-20-2011)
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06-20-2011, 11:12 PM
#8
to my understanding the top two spanner nuts should be "locked" together. by using the middle nut, you spin the whole body...as long as they're locked. I believe you only change the spring rates, if you spin the top collar, which does not happen if they are locked...I actually called marcus on this today.... how else could you spin the whole body?
06-20-2011, 11:24 PM
#9
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
easy to re-adjust the spring preload. you should set it to zero preload, meaning there is no load on the spring when there is no weight on it. what you do is jack up the car and take off the wheel. now that theres no weight on the suspension, adjust the rings below the spring so that the spring sits slightly snug, not too loose or tight, you should be able to rotate the springs by hand. do the same for all sides, and double check by measuring the distance of the spring with a tape measure
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vietxquangstah (06-21-2011)
06-20-2011, 11:30 PM
#10
... I think its in the thread when the htspec was still in production to my understanding the top two spanner nuts should be "locked" together. by using the middle nut, you spin the whole body...as long as they're locked. I believe you only change the spring rates, if you spin the top collar, which does not happen if they are locked...I actually called marcus on this today.... how else could you spin the whole body?
It should spin easily unless theres little rocks or sand in the thread blocking it
06-21-2011, 12:09 AM
#11
i thank you two VERY much... 
easy to re-adjust the spring preload. you should set it to zero preload, meaning there is no load on the spring when there is no weight on it. what you do is jack up the car and take off the wheel. now that theres no weight on the suspension, adjust the rings below the spring so that the spring sits slightly snug, not too loose or tight, you should be able to rotate the springs by hand. do the same for all sides, and double check by measuring the distance of the spring with a tape measure
The length of the spring (from bottom of tophat to top of locking collar) shouldn't be any longer than a certain length, forgot what the number is ... I think its in the thread when the htspec was still in production
? to adjust height, just loosen the "yellow" part highlighted above ... then grab the entire shock and spin it
It should spin easily unless theres little rocks or sand in the thread blocking it
... I think its in the thread when the htspec was still in production ? to adjust height, just loosen the "yellow" part highlighted above ... then grab the entire shock and spin it
It should spin easily unless theres little rocks or sand in the thread blocking it
06-21-2011, 01:25 AM
#12
06 ThugLuv
You can adjust them by the top two rings under the spring but healtoe sends them to you is already adjusted to the spring rates that are perfect. and if you do that you will avoid the warranty. thats why you adjust it with the with the yellow ring.
unfortunately i didn't know that and adjusted my front coils. i don't remember how much i adjusted them so to get them back to where they where im going to contact healtoe to get the measurement from the bottom end of the coil (with the red sleeve that sits in the fork, screwed off) to the bottom of the lower red ring.
unfortunately i didn't know that and adjusted my front coils. i don't remember how much i adjusted them so to get them back to where they where im going to contact healtoe to get the measurement from the bottom end of the coil (with the red sleeve that sits in the fork, screwed off) to the bottom of the lower red ring.
06-21-2011, 05:08 AM
#13
Here you go guys, did some fishing:
found on post #210 of HT spec tuning...: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=spec&page=6
... I did call Preston again today and he told me that the distance between the bottom of the top hat and the top of the lower rubber mount on the spring should be in the 220mm - 215mm range for the proper pre-load. He said it should be NO MORE than 215mm. I am going to measure when I get time.
...
...
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06-21-2011, 08:22 AM
#15
I think u guys are missing my point, when the top spring perch collars are locked together, the spring rates won't change. You use the bottom top spanner to turn the whole body with the wrench. At least that's what marcus and the instructions say...I guess u could turn it by hand...but why? When they provide u with a wrench, for that specific reason.
06-21-2011, 12:53 PM
#16
06 ThugLuv
I think u guys are missing my point, when the top spring perch collars are locked together, the spring rates won't change. You use the bottom top spanner to turn the whole body with the wrench. At least that's what marcus and the instructions say...I guess u could turn it by hand...but why? When they provide u with a wrench, for that specific reason.
yeah ur right. i actually loosend the bottom locking ring and adjusted the top ring..then re tightend the locking ring so my spring rates are off.
06-21-2011, 01:06 PM
#17
Here you go guys, did some fishing:
found on post #210 of HT spec tuning...: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=spec&page=6
found on post #210 of HT spec tuning...: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=spec&page=6
06-21-2011, 01:14 PM
#18
I think u guys are missing my point, when the top spring perch collars are locked together, the spring rates won't change. You use the bottom top spanner to turn the whole body with the wrench. At least that's what marcus and the instructions say...I guess u could turn it by hand...but why? When they provide u with a wrench, for that specific reason.
06-21-2011, 05:17 PM
#19
Chapter Leader (Houston)
iTrader: (7)
I think u guys are missing my point, when the top spring perch collars are locked together, the spring rates won't change. You use the bottom top spanner to turn the whole body with the wrench. At least that's what marcus and the instructions say...I guess u could turn it by hand...but why? When they provide u with a wrench, for that specific reason.
06-22-2011, 01:31 AM
#21
distance between the bottom of the top hat and the top of the lower rubber mount on the spring should be in the 220mm - 215mm range for the proper pre-load. He said it should be NO MORE than 215mm.
ok im a bit confused and have 2 questions.
1. where is the "lower rubber mount"? i'm trying to figure out so i know where exactly i'm supposed to measure. in the picture i posted above, which way is the correct way to measure the spring to get 215mm? i see a little black thing located right under the top hats and i'm assuming those are the "lower rubber mounts"?
2. does the "215mm-220mm" apply to both the fronts and the rear?
06-22-2011, 11:57 AM
#23
no i haven't measured anything yet. the picture that i linked was of a card that was included with my coilover kit. those aren't really my coilovers, but just a picture on a card that i took a picture of for reference.
i think i will get to measuring my fronts today to see what number i get.
when you measured the yellow, what number did you get?
i think i will get to measuring my fronts today to see what number i get.
when you measured the yellow, what number did you get?
Last edited by vietxquangstah; 06-22-2011 at 12:04 PM.
06-22-2011, 12:34 PM
#24
Shit im confused on this part as well. I Loosened the Bottom nut and adjusted the two top nuts above to raise my car by raising the Thread instead of adjusting the spring because when I installed the Coilovers I left the adjustment the way they came in the box and my car was so low i couldn't even move it back or forward so it basically at on the Tires. So I raised it and it went up so much I tightened the bottom nut to make sure the thread didn't come out the sleeve and loosened the two top ones to compress the spring and try and raise the car that way. My car is still Low as SHIT and im not sure if I raise it any more from the Bottom Nut that the Thread will come off the sleeve. If I don't make sense let me know and ill take pics and try to explain more. Also does anyone know how tall the thread is from top to bottom so that i know how much more thread i have to raise the car from the bottom Nut
06-22-2011, 02:17 PM
#25
alright so i got around to raising my car today and i just got done doing the driver front.
while doing so, i took a picture so you can see what i measured for the springs.
this first picture is me measuring the spring length starting from directly under the tophat. just like the picture i linked earlier and i highlighted it with yellow.
this second picture is me measuring the same coil, but this time i started under the little black thing that i'm assuming is the "lower rubber mount"
i have no clue if my original installer tampered with my front coil spring rates at all, so these readings are not 100% stock from right out the box. i wish someone who hasn't touched their spring rates at all would give us a measurement with pictures...
while doing so, i took a picture so you can see what i measured for the springs.
this first picture is me measuring the spring length starting from directly under the tophat. just like the picture i linked earlier and i highlighted it with yellow.
this second picture is me measuring the same coil, but this time i started under the little black thing that i'm assuming is the "lower rubber mount"
i have no clue if my original installer tampered with my front coil spring rates at all, so these readings are not 100% stock from right out the box. i wish someone who hasn't touched their spring rates at all would give us a measurement with pictures...
06-22-2011, 03:28 PM
#28
06 ThugLuv
Shit im confused on this part as well. I Loosened the Bottom nut and adjusted the two top nuts above to raise my car by raising the Thread instead of adjusting the spring because when I installed the Coilovers I left the adjustment the way they came in the box and my car was so low i couldn't even move it back or forward so it basically at on the Tires. So I raised it and it went up so much I tightened the bottom nut to make sure the thread didn't come out the sleeve and loosened the two top ones to compress the spring and try and raise the car that way. My car is still Low as SHIT and im not sure if I raise it any more from the Bottom Nut that the Thread will come off the sleeve. If I don't make sense let me know and ill take pics and try to explain more. Also does anyone know how tall the thread is from top to bottom so that i know how much more thread i have to raise the car from the bottom Nut
so did you loosen the top two red locking rings like apart from each other and raise the top red locking ring to raise your car?
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Mafyoso (06-22-2011)
06-22-2011, 03:40 PM
#29
06 ThugLuv
I have an idea but my gov. computer blocks the healtoe site. can somebody go to the healtoe site and email them this link, explain the issue we have, and request them to post the correct measurments on this thread. A answer from them will be the end all to this madness.
06-22-2011, 03:47 PM
#30
WOW WHAT FUCKING LUCK I HAVE? ok so i adjusted the front driver, put the tire on, lowered the car. liked the new raised height. went over to the passenger front. raised it, took tire off, adjusted the coil just like the other side.
tried to put the tire back on, but the car was still too low so i had to raise the car just a tad bit more. as i was raising the car using the spare tire jack (the black jack that comes with the car) out of no where the car slips and BAM fucking hits the ground.
end result =
the jack was wedged between my front right sideskirt. i managed to wiggle it loose only to find out that it's been bent from the weight of the car sitting on it. NOW IM FUCKED
tried to put the tire back on, but the car was still too low so i had to raise the car just a tad bit more. as i was raising the car using the spare tire jack (the black jack that comes with the car) out of no where the car slips and BAM fucking hits the ground.
end result =
the jack was wedged between my front right sideskirt. i managed to wiggle it loose only to find out that it's been bent from the weight of the car sitting on it. NOW IM FUCKED
Last edited by vietxquangstah; 06-22-2011 at 03:49 PM.
OMFG, NO WAY, that sucks so bad
06-22-2011, 04:13 PM
#32
the fork the red sleeve fits in is hallow. see if you can put you finger through the bottom and feel where the gold thread shaft ends in the red sleeve. you sould be able to raise it. to where you dont have that problem.
so did you loosen the top two red locking rings like apart from each other and raise the top red locking ring to raise your car?
so did you loosen the top two red locking rings like apart from each other and raise the top red locking ring to raise your car?
WOW WHAT FUCKING LUCK I HAVE? ok so i adjusted the front driver, put the tire on, lowered the car. liked the new raised height. went over to the passenger front. raised it, took tire off, adjusted the coil just like the other side.
tried to put the tire back on, but the car was still too low so i had to raise the car just a tad bit more. as i was raising the car using the spare tire jack (the black jack that comes with the car) out of no where the car slips and BAM fucking hits the ground.
end result =
the jack was wedged between my front right sideskirt. i managed to wiggle it loose only to find out that it's been bent from the weight of the car sitting on it. NOW IM FUCKED
tried to put the tire back on, but the car was still too low so i had to raise the car just a tad bit more. as i was raising the car using the spare tire jack (the black jack that comes with the car) out of no where the car slips and BAM fucking hits the ground.
end result =
the jack was wedged between my front right sideskirt. i managed to wiggle it loose only to find out that it's been bent from the weight of the car sitting on it. NOW IM FUCKED
Dam Bro that shit sucks, Them Jacks are really only to change a spare tire. I never us them shit for that same reason. Also did you have the Ebrake up? That my have been ur problem. But yeah Word of Advise... Buy a check 40 dollar Jack from Walmart that is better than the one that comes with the car.
06-22-2011, 04:19 PM
#33
I have an idea but my gov. computer blocks the healtoe site. can somebody go to the healtoe site and email them this link, explain the issue we have, and request them to post the correct measurments on this thread. A answer from them will be the end all to this madness.
06-22-2011, 04:32 PM
#34
here was my type 1 install with 3/4" threaded on the bottom... too bad i didnt get an entire thread measurement
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/ht-spec-type-1-coilovers-794792/
I BELIEVE the entire threaded portion measures 8 inches
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/ht-spec-type-1-coilovers-794792/
I BELIEVE the entire threaded portion measures 8 inches
06-22-2011, 04:35 PM
#35
06 ThugLuv
WOW WHAT FUCKING LUCK I HAVE? ok so i adjusted the front driver, put the tire on, lowered the car. liked the new raised height. went over to the passenger front. raised it, took tire off, adjusted the coil just like the other side.
tried to put the tire back on, but the car was still too low so i had to raise the car just a tad bit more. as i was raising the car using the spare tire jack (the black jack that comes with the car) out of no where the car slips and BAM fucking hits the ground.
the jack was wedged between my front right sideskirt. i managed to wiggle it loose only to find out that it's been bent from the weight of the car sitting on it. NOW IM FUCKED
tried to put the tire back on, but the car was still too low so i had to raise the car just a tad bit more. as i was raising the car using the spare tire jack (the black jack that comes with the car) out of no where the car slips and BAM fucking hits the ground.
the jack was wedged between my front right sideskirt. i managed to wiggle it loose only to find out that it's been bent from the weight of the car sitting on it. NOW IM FUCKED
But props to you for posting your problems on here w/ pics. This info will help others not make this mistake. Your going to get this fixed though. I fucked up my car, not like this but its frusturating. my fix will cost me 226.00 from the dealer. Live and learn homie.
06-22-2011, 04:44 PM
#37
06 ThugLuv
You are a thug. Thanks man. So now we wait...
Yeah when I put my coils on I screwed the red sleeve on all the way then took my car off the lift. The tires were holding up my car! The hobby shop I was at was going to close so I raised it by the springs. Then after two weeks my coils settled in and I was dragging my front everywhere. So I adjusted them the correct way. Now I want to lower my springs to where they were, then raise it the correct way to keep the height I’m at.
But yeah man we fuxed up, voided warranty and have off spring rates...o well, we'll figure this sheezy out
06-22-2011, 04:48 PM
#38
maybe someone that knows how to operate a jack can show me? never thought i'd be online asking this question. here's a pic of the jack i have.
i see the part where you can spin the handle clockwise and the nipple will lock it into place to the point where you can't pull the stick out. well i turned it clockwise and than proceeded to do a pumping action, all the way up and down. the jack doesn't budge at all.
than i tried moving the nipple to where it doesn't lock in place (you can slide the rod in or out, it's not locked in place) and also proceeded to do a pumping motion and the jack still doesn't move.
am i missing something here?? if i could just get this jack to work, i'm pretty sure i'll have my tire back on in no time. but because i don't have a jack to raise my car, i have to wait another hour and a half until my friend gets here with her low-profile jack.
Dam Bro that shit sucks, Them Jacks are really only to change a spare tire. I never us them shit for that same reason. Also did you have the Ebrake up? That my have been ur problem. But yeah Word of Advise... Buy a check 40 dollar Jack from Walmart that is better than the one that comes with the car.
F.UR.L!!!
But props to you for posting your problems on here w/ pics. This info will help others not make this mistake. Your going to get this fixed though. I fucked up my car, not like this but its frusturating. my fix will cost me 226.00 from the dealer. Live and learn homie.
But props to you for posting your problems on here w/ pics. This info will help others not make this mistake. Your going to get this fixed though. I fucked up my car, not like this but its frusturating. my fix will cost me 226.00 from the dealer. Live and learn homie.
Last edited by vietxquangstah; 06-22-2011 at 04:51 PM.