Proper way to adjust height on F&F Coilover
06-22-2011, 06:09 PM
#41
i managed to re-raise the car and put the tire back on and fix my side skirt. haven't test drove it yet but everything looks un damaged but now i'm leaking coolant.
it's not pouring out, but just slightly leaking drip by drip. i'm pretty sure it's from when the car fell and hit the ground, it must have broke something...
but for those people that still don't have a clue how to operate a hydraulic jack, check this video out it helped me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMILE9ZBRSk
06-22-2011, 06:29 PM
#42
Oh my lord...what a mess of a thread...
Ok, here are some bullet points. OFFICIAL FROM HEELTOE (psst guy it is HEELTOE not HEALTOE. I am not a podiatrist!)
1) Spring preload. The coilovers come with the preload set at zero. Preload relates the length of the spring as it sits between the top hat and the spring perch (the collar that the spring sits on). Zero preload would mean that the spring is not compressed at all, but it is still held in place by the perches. So, if you are spinning the red collars and it is getting hard to do, and the spring is getting shorter, then you are adding preload. This is ok if you want to make the car ride firmer. But overall, the setup should remain at zero preload. If you have changed the preload, don't friggin panic vietxquangstah! Just readjust the red collars so that the spring is not compressed but it not loose on the shock. Lock the collars together by tightening them together with the wrenches. It helps to hold the wrenches in place and then whack with a hammer.
2) Height adjustment. The height on this sort of system is adjusted by adjusting the lower bracket. The lower bracket is the part at the bottom that threads onto the bottom of the shock and bolts into the car at the opposite end. To properly adjust the height, you need to spin the lower bracket up or down in order to lengthen and shorten the shock assembly.
3) Where to set the lower bracket. Most people are finding that 4" to 4.5" of threads showing between the red collar and gold collar. The think to be aware of is the MAX HEIGHT you can have. Mafyoso mentioned they were concerned about unthreading the shock from the bracket. In order to get max high setting, unscrew the lower bracket all the way off. Then spin the gold collar down so that .5" of threads are showing on the bottom of the shock. Thread the lower bracket back on, and then tighten.
4) Getting things even, left to right. The measurements SHOULD be the same left to right to get the right height, although front to back there may be some variation and this is based on your personal preference for height settings. If by some chance you need to make the measurements different left to right in order to get the car to sit level, you probably have the cheaper springs and hence this is the reason for offering Eibachs as an option. Just sayin.
Now some more tips.
- Always you a quality jack, jack stands, and wheel chocks. Or else you will be posting frustratingly embarrassing pics like vietxquangstah did.
- Make sure you know your equipment (aimed again at vietxquangstah. I suggest you put that big jack under the rear tow hook, then put the small jack under the right rear jack point and raise the right side of the car. This will give you enough room to get the large jack under the right front jack point.)
- When installing and adjusting coilovers do it with both wheels on one axle off the ground (do both fronts together and both rears together).
- When tightening and losening collars, the wrenches basically suck ass. Put a prybar or stout screwdriver in the tooth of a collar then hit it with a hammer to do a sort of "impact-spin." It makes things easier.
PS: thanks for the email ticket alerting me of this conversation...although I gotta say the issue was answered in the first 3 replies...not a whole lot of reason for confusion after that.
Ok, here are some bullet points. OFFICIAL FROM HEELTOE (psst guy it is HEELTOE not HEALTOE. I am not a podiatrist!)
1) Spring preload. The coilovers come with the preload set at zero. Preload relates the length of the spring as it sits between the top hat and the spring perch (the collar that the spring sits on). Zero preload would mean that the spring is not compressed at all, but it is still held in place by the perches. So, if you are spinning the red collars and it is getting hard to do, and the spring is getting shorter, then you are adding preload. This is ok if you want to make the car ride firmer. But overall, the setup should remain at zero preload. If you have changed the preload, don't friggin panic vietxquangstah! Just readjust the red collars so that the spring is not compressed but it not loose on the shock. Lock the collars together by tightening them together with the wrenches. It helps to hold the wrenches in place and then whack with a hammer.
2) Height adjustment. The height on this sort of system is adjusted by adjusting the lower bracket. The lower bracket is the part at the bottom that threads onto the bottom of the shock and bolts into the car at the opposite end. To properly adjust the height, you need to spin the lower bracket up or down in order to lengthen and shorten the shock assembly.
3) Where to set the lower bracket. Most people are finding that 4" to 4.5" of threads showing between the red collar and gold collar. The think to be aware of is the MAX HEIGHT you can have. Mafyoso mentioned they were concerned about unthreading the shock from the bracket. In order to get max high setting, unscrew the lower bracket all the way off. Then spin the gold collar down so that .5" of threads are showing on the bottom of the shock. Thread the lower bracket back on, and then tighten.
4) Getting things even, left to right. The measurements SHOULD be the same left to right to get the right height, although front to back there may be some variation and this is based on your personal preference for height settings. If by some chance you need to make the measurements different left to right in order to get the car to sit level, you probably have the cheaper springs and hence this is the reason for offering Eibachs as an option. Just sayin.
Now some more tips.
- Always you a quality jack, jack stands, and wheel chocks. Or else you will be posting frustratingly embarrassing pics like vietxquangstah did.
- Make sure you know your equipment (aimed again at vietxquangstah. I suggest you put that big jack under the rear tow hook, then put the small jack under the right rear jack point and raise the right side of the car. This will give you enough room to get the large jack under the right front jack point.)
- When installing and adjusting coilovers do it with both wheels on one axle off the ground (do both fronts together and both rears together).
- When tightening and losening collars, the wrenches basically suck ass. Put a prybar or stout screwdriver in the tooth of a collar then hit it with a hammer to do a sort of "impact-spin." It makes things easier.
PS: thanks for the email ticket alerting me of this conversation...although I gotta say the issue was answered in the first 3 replies...not a whole lot of reason for confusion after that.
06-22-2011, 06:57 PM
#45
final results of the driver and passenger front.... got it adjusted to my desired height. about 1.5 finger gap
the rear as you can see is still a bit low. i plan on getting to the rears tonight or sometime tomorrow.
now that marcus has come in and cleared everything up about the spring rates, the next time i plan on adjusting my ride height i'm gonna go ahead and zero-out my spring rates as he mentioned.
the rear as you can see is still a bit low. i plan on getting to the rears tonight or sometime tomorrow.
now that marcus has come in and cleared everything up about the spring rates, the next time i plan on adjusting my ride height i'm gonna go ahead and zero-out my spring rates as he mentioned.
06-22-2011, 11:46 PM
#46
06 ThugLuv
i think that should go for both standard and eibach springs. if they sent it to you all assembled then thats probably true. my other friends with different cars ordered coils, ad they all came disassembled. but i don't know for sure. if you have any of the paper work that came with the coils read that stuff it will say. or last resort contact them n ask.
06-23-2011, 04:26 PM
#47
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Sorry but I LOL'd at that.
Thanks for insight.
Viet my offer still stands if you need a second eye and a guy I trust as my right hand man on all things mechanical. He will be in Dallas this weekend and may offer insight or be able to help you in any way. He is a stand up guy.
Best of luck to you and sorry to see these problems. I have had a jack lay over changing a flat on the side of a road one night so I can relate to the frustrations.
06-23-2011, 04:29 PM
#48
Desert Life Sucks!!
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As far as coolant I haven't looked under my car yet but would say that the coolant drain plug on radiator is plastic as is on all Honda/Acura vehicles and that may have been cracked.
When looking for leaks it is best to start low and follow up the highest point you see wet.
If that is hard or messy you can clean area in your case with water hose. (don't recommend brake cleaner like in an oil leak scenario) and let dry then run car for a little while to get fluids moving. Shut off and let sit or try to find it while running.
When looking for leaks it is best to start low and follow up the highest point you see wet.
If that is hard or messy you can clean area in your case with water hose. (don't recommend brake cleaner like in an oil leak scenario) and let dry then run car for a little while to get fluids moving. Shut off and let sit or try to find it while running.
06-23-2011, 04:29 PM
#49
i think that should go for both standard and eibach springs. if they sent it to you all assembled then thats probably true. my other friends with different cars ordered coils, ad they all came disassembled. but i don't know for sure. if you have any of the paper work that came with the coils read that stuff it will say. or last resort contact them n ask.
06-23-2011, 04:34 PM
#50
06 ThugLuv
I believe you. I know i read it somewhere though..maybe F&F said this...idk when i get home im see if i have anything left over but if i cant find it o well...thanks for lookin tho
06-24-2011, 01:19 PM
#51
Oh my lord...what a mess of a thread...
Ok, here are some bullet points. OFFICIAL FROM HEELTOE (psst guy it is HEELTOE not HEALTOE. I am not a podiatrist!)
1) Spring preload. The coilovers come with the preload set at zero. Preload relates the length of the spring as it sits between the top hat and the spring perch (the collar that the spring sits on). Zero preload would mean that the spring is not compressed at all, but it is still held in place by the perches. So, if you are spinning the red collars and it is getting hard to do, and the spring is getting shorter, then you are adding preload. This is ok if you want to make the car ride firmer. But overall, the setup should remain at zero preload. If you have changed the preload, don't friggin panic vietxquangstah! Just readjust the red collars so that the spring is not compressed but it not loose on the shock. Lock the collars together by tightening them together with the wrenches. It helps to hold the wrenches in place and then whack with a hammer.
2) Height adjustment. The height on this sort of system is adjusted by adjusting the lower bracket. The lower bracket is the part at the bottom that threads onto the bottom of the shock and bolts into the car at the opposite end. To properly adjust the height, you need to spin the lower bracket up or down in order to lengthen and shorten the shock assembly.
3) Where to set the lower bracket. Most people are finding that 4" to 4.5" of threads showing between the red collar and gold collar. The think to be aware of is the MAX HEIGHT you can have. Mafyoso mentioned they were concerned about unthreading the shock from the bracket. In order to get max high setting, unscrew the lower bracket all the way off. Then spin the gold collar down so that .5" of threads are showing on the bottom of the shock. Thread the lower bracket back on, and then tighten.
4) Getting things even, left to right. The measurements SHOULD be the same left to right to get the right height, although front to back there may be some variation and this is based on your personal preference for height settings. If by some chance you need to make the measurements different left to right in order to get the car to sit level, you probably have the cheaper springs and hence this is the reason for offering Eibachs as an option. Just sayin.
Now some more tips.
- Always you a quality jack, jack stands, and wheel chocks. Or else you will be posting frustratingly embarrassing pics like vietxquangstah did.
- Make sure you know your equipment (aimed again at vietxquangstah. I suggest you put that big jack under the rear tow hook, then put the small jack under the right rear jack point and raise the right side of the car. This will give you enough room to get the large jack under the right front jack point.)
- When installing and adjusting coilovers do it with both wheels on one axle off the ground (do both fronts together and both rears together).
- When tightening and losening collars, the wrenches basically suck ass. Put a prybar or stout screwdriver in the tooth of a collar then hit it with a hammer to do a sort of "impact-spin." It makes things easier.
PS: thanks for the email ticket alerting me of this conversation...although I gotta say the issue was answered in the first 3 replies...not a whole lot of reason for confusion after that.
Ok, here are some bullet points. OFFICIAL FROM HEELTOE (psst guy it is HEELTOE not HEALTOE. I am not a podiatrist!)
1) Spring preload. The coilovers come with the preload set at zero. Preload relates the length of the spring as it sits between the top hat and the spring perch (the collar that the spring sits on). Zero preload would mean that the spring is not compressed at all, but it is still held in place by the perches. So, if you are spinning the red collars and it is getting hard to do, and the spring is getting shorter, then you are adding preload. This is ok if you want to make the car ride firmer. But overall, the setup should remain at zero preload. If you have changed the preload, don't friggin panic vietxquangstah! Just readjust the red collars so that the spring is not compressed but it not loose on the shock. Lock the collars together by tightening them together with the wrenches. It helps to hold the wrenches in place and then whack with a hammer.
2) Height adjustment. The height on this sort of system is adjusted by adjusting the lower bracket. The lower bracket is the part at the bottom that threads onto the bottom of the shock and bolts into the car at the opposite end. To properly adjust the height, you need to spin the lower bracket up or down in order to lengthen and shorten the shock assembly.
3) Where to set the lower bracket. Most people are finding that 4" to 4.5" of threads showing between the red collar and gold collar. The think to be aware of is the MAX HEIGHT you can have. Mafyoso mentioned they were concerned about unthreading the shock from the bracket. In order to get max high setting, unscrew the lower bracket all the way off. Then spin the gold collar down so that .5" of threads are showing on the bottom of the shock. Thread the lower bracket back on, and then tighten.
4) Getting things even, left to right. The measurements SHOULD be the same left to right to get the right height, although front to back there may be some variation and this is based on your personal preference for height settings. If by some chance you need to make the measurements different left to right in order to get the car to sit level, you probably have the cheaper springs and hence this is the reason for offering Eibachs as an option. Just sayin.
Now some more tips.
- Always you a quality jack, jack stands, and wheel chocks. Or else you will be posting frustratingly embarrassing pics like vietxquangstah did.
- Make sure you know your equipment (aimed again at vietxquangstah. I suggest you put that big jack under the rear tow hook, then put the small jack under the right rear jack point and raise the right side of the car. This will give you enough room to get the large jack under the right front jack point.)
- When installing and adjusting coilovers do it with both wheels on one axle off the ground (do both fronts together and both rears together).
- When tightening and losening collars, the wrenches basically suck ass. Put a prybar or stout screwdriver in the tooth of a collar then hit it with a hammer to do a sort of "impact-spin." It makes things easier.
PS: thanks for the email ticket alerting me of this conversation...although I gotta say the issue was answered in the first 3 replies...not a whole lot of reason for confusion after that.
P.S. Sorry for the Miss spell, I don't usually prof read my posts. So that happens a lot
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