New rims!!....:'(
#1
New rims!!....:'(
So I got some new rims finally to replace my old ones (yay). Sad to say the rim is touching the calliper. I'd need about a 1/4 inch spacer (on top of the 1/4 inch one there already together needing 1/2 inch in total to make the rims work which is all fine and dandy. The downside, my bolts are going to be too short for the lugs. I was told that they cannot be replaced by the mechanic who looked at it. Said the TL ones are non interchangeable so I cannot put longer ones. Being that he said this, I think the mechanic is a idiot because why would acura be so stupid to make such a beautiful car have something so retarded as a welded bolt (what if one broke? Derp) anyways all being said, what id really like to find out is, was this actually true. If this is the case ill just take it to a tire shop and ask them to make me a 1/2 inch spacer and for some 1/2 inch longer bolts and all will be good. Thanks for the input!
#4
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
get rid of your spacers and get some that bolt on. sounds like you would just need the 15 mm version. they bolt on to your current studs then your wheels bolt on to the spacer
http://stores.ebay.com/Akata-Spacers
http://stores.ebay.com/Akata-Spacers
#7
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
You can install extended studs, the rears are pretty easy since once you remove the wheel, brake and spindle nut the whole hub/bearing assembly slides off and you can hammer out the old ones and press in new ones.
The front isn't as straight forward. I ground a channel into my knuckle in order to slide extended studs in the front and popped out the old ones with the spindle still on the car. The alternate options to this are cutting about half the head off the studs (which I wasn't comfortable with) or doing this while you're replacing the wheel bearing so you can separate the spindle from the knuckle/bearing. It'll split the bearing if you remove it though, at which point the bearing needs to be replaced. There's a couple threads on here for it somewhere.
Ichiba makes a set, they work. I had the BWR studs on the rear for a while, but found they were just excessively long.
You can just get the hubcentric spacers with studs already in them though and just bolt those to your wheel and then bolt your wheel to the spacer. Should be ok, there are threads here and elsewhere on it.
The bolts on the spacers can loosen up after time though and if your spacer is too thin (10mm or less) they don't make them with studs installed already since the aluminum spacer doesn't have the strength to hold the studs when its that thin - they'll snap.
If you get the spacers make sure to get hubcentric, the hubs on our TL's are 64.1mm. Then you'll need whatever hub-rings you have for your wheels to go from 64.1mm - wheel, unless they're already 64.1. If you don't use hubcentric spacers/rings it'll wobble.
Ohh, don't forget to check the back of your new wheels, hopefully they have an alternating pocket in them between where the holes are to mount the wheel. Otherwise the won't sit flush over the spacer, since the nuts/studs that you bolted the spacer to on the hub won't have anywhere inside the wheel to sit. I think some of the spacers have pockets in them so you don't have to worry about this though.
Also not safe to run two spacers on the same wheel, so if you already have one I wouldn't try getting away with just putting another one on top of it to change the offset. Best to just buy new ones and, at most, only run a single spacer on each wheel.
The front isn't as straight forward. I ground a channel into my knuckle in order to slide extended studs in the front and popped out the old ones with the spindle still on the car. The alternate options to this are cutting about half the head off the studs (which I wasn't comfortable with) or doing this while you're replacing the wheel bearing so you can separate the spindle from the knuckle/bearing. It'll split the bearing if you remove it though, at which point the bearing needs to be replaced. There's a couple threads on here for it somewhere.
Ichiba makes a set, they work. I had the BWR studs on the rear for a while, but found they were just excessively long.
You can just get the hubcentric spacers with studs already in them though and just bolt those to your wheel and then bolt your wheel to the spacer. Should be ok, there are threads here and elsewhere on it.
The bolts on the spacers can loosen up after time though and if your spacer is too thin (10mm or less) they don't make them with studs installed already since the aluminum spacer doesn't have the strength to hold the studs when its that thin - they'll snap.
If you get the spacers make sure to get hubcentric, the hubs on our TL's are 64.1mm. Then you'll need whatever hub-rings you have for your wheels to go from 64.1mm - wheel, unless they're already 64.1. If you don't use hubcentric spacers/rings it'll wobble.
Ohh, don't forget to check the back of your new wheels, hopefully they have an alternating pocket in them between where the holes are to mount the wheel. Otherwise the won't sit flush over the spacer, since the nuts/studs that you bolted the spacer to on the hub won't have anywhere inside the wheel to sit. I think some of the spacers have pockets in them so you don't have to worry about this though.
Also not safe to run two spacers on the same wheel, so if you already have one I wouldn't try getting away with just putting another one on top of it to change the offset. Best to just buy new ones and, at most, only run a single spacer on each wheel.
Last edited by mzilvar; 08-04-2013 at 10:46 PM.
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#8
Yeah that's what I'm planning on doing, just a single soacer. The one iv got now is either1/8 or 1/4 but in fairly sure it's 1/8just from looming at it so I think I'd need.. Well half an inch to be safest so as long as I can get 4 spacers with the extended lugs and nuts attatched to it It would be good because iv got two sets of rims that can be used but neither for the car due to the fact that the caliper sticks out so far
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