Installed my first mod
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Next on the list is neuspeed supercup or some coilovers, but that probably wont happen till I move back to Arizona.
And about them pics....i bought a used rsb from a member here and didn't bother taking pics during the install. It was raining and it was an in and out job. Total install time was less than an hour.

But damn...does it feel good to make the turns
And about them pics....i bought a used rsb from a member here and didn't bother taking pics during the install. It was raining and it was an in and out job. Total install time was less than an hour.

But damn...does it feel good to make the turns
Only if you upgrade the bushings, but even then there's only a small chance. I've NEVER heard of this happening to anybody yet.
http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=25734
3G TL's are welcome to this groupbuy, btw
First ever legit unmodified AMR coilovers.
All I can say to that is.................
http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=25734
3G TL's are welcome to this groupbuy, btw
First ever legit unmodified AMR coilovers.
http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=25734
3G TL's are welcome to this groupbuy, btw
First ever legit unmodified AMR coilovers.
So currently, if you wanted to use a set of coilovers not specifically made for the TL, you would have to grind off a bolt from the top mount or drill through your strut tower. That's what I meant by unmodified vs modified to work for the TL.
There may be a few people with AMR's that they've made work, but I couldn't tell you who. But no one has this legit version yet.
It's only a matter of time until the Tein SS's will be just another second rate coilover, guys. Just wait til TL owners get their hands on these.
They've never once had a customer report a blown shock. In 6+ years.
Sorry for kinda going off-topic but I thought it was important, haha.
That sounds like a lot of work to install some coilovers so hopefully when I am ready to buy them they might have a setup specifically made for the 3g TL. Thanks for putting AMR on my radar.
AMR's have never been made for TL's until now. Simply because they didn't design the top mount with the TL's bolt pattern until I talked to the owner of the company and told him they are the exact same as the 7G Accord setup except different top mount bolt pattern.
So currently, if you wanted to use a set of coilovers not specifically made for the TL, you would have to grind off a bolt from the top mount or drill through your strut tower. That's what I meant by unmodified vs modified to work for the TL.
There may be a few people with AMR's that they've made work, but I couldn't tell you who. But no one has this legit version yet.
It's only a matter of time until the Tein SS's will be just another second rate coilover, guys. Just wait til TL owners get their hands on these.
They've never once had a customer report a blown shock. In 6+ years.
Sorry for kinda going off-topic but I thought it was important, haha.
So currently, if you wanted to use a set of coilovers not specifically made for the TL, you would have to grind off a bolt from the top mount or drill through your strut tower. That's what I meant by unmodified vs modified to work for the TL.
There may be a few people with AMR's that they've made work, but I couldn't tell you who. But no one has this legit version yet.
It's only a matter of time until the Tein SS's will be just another second rate coilover, guys. Just wait til TL owners get their hands on these.
They've never once had a customer report a blown shock. In 6+ years.
Sorry for kinda going off-topic but I thought it was important, haha.
I have read where some peeps think the CT bar is ideal where others go bigger with the progress. I have also read where bigger is not necessarily better in terms of real end sliding on tight turns due to the thickness of the bar. What are your thoughts on how thick the rear bar should be?
I have read where some peeps think the CT bar is ideal where others go bigger with the progress. I have also read where bigger is not necessarily better in terms of real end sliding on tight turns due to the thickness of the bar. What are your thoughts on how thick the rear bar should be?
I will elaborate thought and mention that the handling was further improved when I added the A-Spec suspension and high performance tires (Goodyear Eagle F-1 GS-D3's). This combination has completely changed the handling characteristics of this car. As you know, it's a relatively heavy sedan, and I can safely take corners in it at much higher than normal speeds...never managed to break the back-end loose.
I agree too. Going from the stock 5at bar to the progress bar has a night and day difference. Also upgrading from the stock michelins to some summer tires (yoko s.drives) helped a bit. I can't wait for some springs/shocks/coilovers to see how much more the handling will do.
I don't really have anything else to compare it to (in terms of other, thicker RSB's), but I can tell you that I noticed an immediate and profound difference when I upgraded from the stock RSB on an '06 5AT to the CT bar. So, from that standpoint, an increase in the thickness of the bar was a good move...what I don't know is whether the CT bar is optimal or not. I wish I could provide more insight there.
I will elaborate thought and mention that the handling was further improved when I added the A-Spec suspension and high performance tires (Goodyear Eagle F-1 GS-D3's). This combination has completely changed the handling characteristics of this car. As you know, it's a relatively heavy sedan, and I can safely take corners in it at much higher than normal speeds...never managed to break the back-end loose.
I will elaborate thought and mention that the handling was further improved when I added the A-Spec suspension and high performance tires (Goodyear Eagle F-1 GS-D3's). This combination has completely changed the handling characteristics of this car. As you know, it's a relatively heavy sedan, and I can safely take corners in it at much higher than normal speeds...never managed to break the back-end loose.
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