Hi All,
Been researching on this site for many years to diagnose the gremlins that occasionally plague my 2007 TL Type-S (with Nav). Recently Ive come across one that I cannot seem to find the solution too, and there have been many threads on this site dedicated to this issue... battery drain.

So heres the layout:

HFL is removed from the car.
Draw is running through fuse 15 (under hood) to fuses 5 and 7 under dash. Each draw runs at around 850mA, removing fuses 5 and 7 returns the car to normal draw (around 20mA)

Attempted so far:

Master door switch removed
Home Link disconnected
Navigation Unit disconnected
Center speaker active noise cancelling disconnected
Audio System Amplified disconnected

I know from looking at the wiring diagrams that 5 does not have a lot on it, just the radio unit and amp from what I've seen... 7 However is a nightmare with modules around the entire vehicle...

What I need to know is has anyone seen this and where (if any) these two fuses congregate (I'm worried is the radio, this seems to be the place).

Thanks!

 

If you pull fuse #5 and wait ~10 minutes drain still will be there? There is a lot of communication between radio, climate control, and navigation so maybe one module "keeps talking" to another keeping them both alive.

 

So no, I didn’t find it, I went all around the car disconnecting modules... the drain remained. Then I disconnected literally every module I could reasonably find (in anger) and when I reconnected them the car did exactly what it was supposed to...

1.50 amps when circuit is competed through the multimeter, drops to .7 amps at about 10 seconds (modules shutting down), then .03 amps at 20 seconds (car is asleep amps in recommended range).

my suspicion is that the radio and the amp were still “talking” to each other after turning the car off, having them both offline (as well as the nav computer) reset that chatter.

Now I have a new issue though... for years the drivers side window fought to go up and down. I figured I might as well replace the motor, which I did... now only the drivers side window works (all three of the others click as though they are receiving power) and if I hold the switch down for even a second after the window is all the way down it blows the fuse... but not the door fuse, it blows fuse 29 (IG VBSOL). I looked the door over, I see no shorts to ground... so I ordered a new master door switch. If anyone has any ideas, I would love to try them while I wait for the new switch.

 

Ohhhhh found it (I think) the ignition and the windows sit on the same relay under the hood, I’m betting that relay is bad. I got a weird solenoid code (only for a second) when I fired her up yesterday.

Can anyone confirm the two items are sitting on the same relay (Under hood 23, 50 amp)

 

I haven't had this problem myself, but I think I remember other folks posting about finding a bad AC clutch relay that was parasitically draining their batteries.

 

Yeah, and I replaced that guy too. The drain is gone now so that also could have been contributing.

my big one now is, does the multi-fuse on 23 under hood being bad mean my power windows could blow in cabin fuse 29 IG fuse? I think yes, I also think it points to that multi fuse being bad as it should not cross over like that.