VSA light and p2649 code

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Old 04-07-2012, 04:47 PM
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VSA light and p2649 code

A few days ago the check engine light, vsa and vsa exclamation point lights came on. Today I took it to the parts store and got the following code

P2649 A rocker arm Actuator control Circuit high (bank 1)

The car starts and drives fine unless you excelerate quickly. It starts to jerk when over 3500 rpm. I have not been able to find much on this. I am limited to searching on my iPhone since I am stuck at the in laws all day.

The car is an 06 TL.
Old 04-16-2012, 10:07 AM
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Ok so for the people that are having this issue and have come across this forum posting. Here is what the problem is looking like so far. This past weekend I dove into the car. First i drained the oil, then removed the three bolts holding on the piece the oil filter screws onto. That is where the VTEC solenoid is located. It is the metal silo looking piece. it has a green wire (covered in a black protective sleeve) coming off of it. Well this wire was some how broke. I remember reading the same answer in another forum where the guy drove through some river and down a dirt road. I didnt believe this was the issue since my wife was just driving a few miles from when it happened. But sure enough same problem. My plan was just disconnect the plug, repair the wire and put it back together. since the plug is in such a hard to locate area and you cant really see what you are doing i decided to order a new part to see what exactly the plug looked like, not that i break the piece that is still there and then where would i be....
I contacted the acura dealer and they wanted $95.34 for the part. the part number is 36171-P8E-A02. This is not the entire piece found on ebay used for $75 http://www.ebay.com/itm/250341333762...84.m1423.l2649 This is just the solenoid that is held on by 2 bolts. I should be receiving it in about 7 days and will attempt to repair the car again and let everyone know what happens. FYI from what we were attempting with removing the plug, it appears to be a two man job. one coming in from the top to push on the clip and another to pull the clip. i will include more detail once its replaced.
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:09 AM
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https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/vtec-solenoid-issue-p2649-815154/

that is the link to the post about the guy driving through the river. there are some good diagrams in there as well
Old 06-11-2018, 11:37 PM
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Ap sensor problem..

It could also be in limp mode which means your

2004-2008 Acura TL Accelerator Pedal Sensor

has gone bad. It happen to mine..hope this helps.
Old 06-14-2022, 10:32 AM
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Honda Odyssey engine swap issue

After swapping the engine in my 2006 Honda Odyssey touring with 2006 Honda Accord v6 engine.
The VSA word and VSA triangle with exclamation mark lights came on also I got P2649 A rocker arm Actuator control Circuit high (bank 1).
The car got the following symptoms:
1. Hesitation on acceleration, starts to jerk when hit 3500 rpm.
2. An excessive gas consumption
3. Transmission fluid leaks (don’t know if this related to the problem above)
Anybody can help in this matter please....
Old 06-14-2022, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeo81
After swapping the engine in my 2006 Honda Odyssey touring with 2006 Honda Accord v6 engine.
The VSA word and VSA triangle with exclamation mark lights came on also I got P2649 A rocker arm Actuator control Circuit high (bank 1).
The car got the following symptoms:
1. Hesitation on acceleration, starts to jerk when hit 3500 rpm.
2. An excessive gas consumption
3. Transmission fluid leaks (don’t know if this related to the problem above)
Anybody can help in this matter please....
There is a short on the circuit for the rocker control. You'll need to trace the wires and see where the short is.
Old 06-14-2022, 06:50 PM
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As I'm not a mechanic. I hope that my below explanation is clear enough.
"The problem is the Accord engine's Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid / Actuator has one heat sensor, solenoid, and another heat sensor close to it attached direct into the engine body all of these must be plugged in while there is only one socket that plugged into the heat sensor of the original Actuator of the old engine, furthermore, it's located in a different spot compare to the original actuator in my old engine.

My question does this problem can be solved and get this engine run normally? anybody can share a video or website to show how to modify the wiring.
Old 01-12-2023, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by benzimm86
Ok so for the people that are having this issue and have come across this forum posting. Here is what the problem is looking like so far. This past weekend I dove into the car. First i drained the oil, then removed the three bolts holding on the piece the oil filter screws onto. That is where the VTEC solenoid is located. It is the metal silo looking piece. it has a green wire (covered in a black protective sleeve) coming off of it. Well this wire was some how broke. I remember reading the same answer in another forum where the guy drove through some river and down a dirt road. I didnt believe this was the issue since my wife was just driving a few miles from when it happened. But sure enough same problem. My plan was just disconnect the plug, repair the wire and put it back together. since the plug is in such a hard to locate area and you cant really see what you are doing i decided to order a new part to see what exactly the plug looked like, not that i break the piece that is still there and then where would i be....
I contacted the acura dealer and they wanted $95.34 for the part. the part number is 36171-P8E-A02. This is not the entire piece found on ebay used for $75 http://www.ebay.com/itm/250341333762...84.m1423.l2649 This is just the solenoid that is held on by 2 bolts. I should be receiving it in about 7 days and will attempt to repair the car again and let everyone know what happens. FYI from what we were attempting with removing the plug, it appears to be a two man job. one coming in from the top to push on the clip and another to pull the clip. i will include more detail once its replaced.
A tip to others who attempt to do this work. To come from the top, you’ll either need small hands/skinny arms or you’ll need average hands/average arms and have removed multiple parts (strut bar, power steering assembly).

The solenoid connector is ass to ass with another connector. Meaning, one connector is has a release button facing up and the solenoid faces down. To get the solenoid connector, first disconnect the connector that faces up. It’s basically exposes and frees up the solenoid connector. Just grab and pull down. Took a few hours to realize that myself. But once I realized how it was laid out, it took 5 minutes round trip.
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