Got an 07 tl type s 5 months ago and repaired almost all the important stuff but looking like I will still have to put a clutch ect in it @ 252kms so I wanted to make sure the j35a8 was healthy enough to continue to repair. Should have done this earlier but I digress. First thing I did was do a block test with the bt-500 rad test. Followed directions and allowed car to reach op temp and cycling the thermostat and test fluid was still blue. A hair lighter blue but not yellow at all. Second I did a compression test and front bank I got 260 260 265 and rear bank I got 260 255 255 after 6 rolls each. Timing belt was done at 180k.

is their any other tests I should do before throwing an almost 2k clutch job into the car?

 

Also should the compression gauge bleed psi after test? Front 2 left cylinders bled down from 260 to 210 after 20 sec or so. The rest of them held pressure

 

Sounds like you have 2 of the 3 major tests performed, with very good results thus far.
And you've inadvertently started the 3rd test, of how long each cylinder can hold said compression, called a "leakdown test". It tests the health & condition of the "sealing" components (i.e. piston rings, head gasket, valve seats, etc) which is basically a more thorough compression test.
It uses a similar gage setup that you screw into the spark plug hole, one gage showing how much PSI you're pumping into the cylinder, and the other gage showing % leaking out of the cylinder. If you can perform a compression test, you can perform a leakdown test.

If it were me, I would have no hesitation putting ~2K into a clutch job, your engine is sounding very healthy.

 

Found some new rust I hadn't noticed b4. Sorry for the photo bomb. Will recoat the under carriage with rust reformer when It arrives multiple times after drying to build up a good even coat on affected areas. bit of rust on rear fenders but not coming out to the body yet and they have been coated As well.

finding all this I'm not sure if she is worth putting anymore money into? I really want too but my bank account already isn't happy with me haha

Passenger rear. Coated with rust check (rust kill) hence the grey coating

Driverside floor panel approx under gas pedal. Jus noticed this yesterday. Coated again after this. Waiting on rustoleum rust reformer. Still solid couldnt push a hole thru it.

Investigated further, pulled driver side floor carpet and gas pedal to find this...

After a few coats of rust check (red) and then rust kill (grey) those 2 were the only rust products i had on hand atm. While drying i pulled passenger side and it looks good.

Wire brushed what i could get at and took the shop vac to it

 

$2k? pretty ridiculous...
makes me think should open shop just specializing in honda/acura clutch and timing belt jobs. Done 2g cl, 3 tl, & 8ga all with no sub-frame removal.

Also from the looks of your floor area photos, presuming there a windshield leak?

 

Havnt seen any leaks or puddles yet but judging by where it was I guessed water was dripping off boots and shoes in that area. Even the weather tec mats don't really cover all the gas pedal. Can drip right down and along that seem.

sorry for the confusion, 2k approx would cover parts and labour at a Mr transmission( 9 hrs was 950 labour approx )Their labour was 400 cheaper than a Honda dealer. Parts would include flywheel, clutch kit, oem pilot bearing, oem release bearing, rear main seal and o ring + fluids and taxes. That's if it's not too rusted to save..

 

Dang, sorry your car has the rust but I had an 87 Integra that was rusted so bad, you could see the road from the rear floorboards. I still drove it for 3 years lol.