Awesome, I'm glad to hear it! Can you list out everything that was replaced/fixed (oil pump seal, timing belt, any others)?

I'm curious if you also replaced the water pump, serpentine belt, idler pulley, etc.

 

They probably just removed the idler pulley bolt re-torqued it 1/8th past it's OG mark
But not past spec, maybe a pound or two
Probably

That'll be $200000000 Fun Fun Fun

 

It would be asinine not to replace all things doing this job

 

almost as asinine as thinking torquing down the idler pulley bolt will resolve in leak stop.

 

Also, Gatr just implied they replaced everything

 

Oh gosh lololololol

 

Oil pump seal, water pump, timing belt, and serpentine belt were replaced. Idler pulley was not.

 

This is what I don't get tho, everything is there and yet people still skipping it. BTW did they replace the TB tensioner? that dam thing tend to fail way before the 105k miles mark.

 

Yeah bruh.. idler pulley and auto-tensioner are legit items to replace.
They dun goofed.

 

Meh.

 

Damn, Gatr must be rollin in the money. Just brushing it off.

 

I refer you to exhibit A)

 

If I have to replace it later on, then I will. No biggie.

 

Dang, why wouldn't the dealer replace the $20 idler pulley since everything is torn apart?? It's a pulley with a bearing, and the bearing wears out.

In any case, I confirmed my oil pump seal leak last night, it's not super serious, but oil did pool up a bit by the top lip edge of the oil pan. I just doused it off with brake clean for now, then monitor. I'm now looking at a set of damaged nut removal socket to prep for removal of the exhaust pipe and gathering some other tools/hondabond to prep for this next year. Another 30k until the next timing belt job.

 

No offense to any mechanic here but most of the time they get pay by job, so the shortest amount of time they spend on one job they can make more money. I highly doubt they double check all the component above we mentioned UNLESS you have a good relationship with the mechanic. E.G the oil pump reseal called for around 9.5 - 11 hours and they got pay at a lock in rate meaning 11 x (whatever the flat rate goes) = $XXX

My logic if it needed to remove to get address the main issue, I would replace the part that could potentially wear and tear once the car has more than 10 years old or over 100k miles.

 

Actually, I think it's more like, " I don't replace that pulley this time, I'll let him come back for a second time and spend another 4 hours to tear into it, replace it, then put it back". More money and money.

 

No because at a larger shop/ dealer you are not guarantee to work on the same vehicle again and again.

 

 

 

 

 

wait.. at first it was like, overtorque the idler pulley bolt == no leak
but then you tore it down to replace the seal to stop the leak?!?!?!?!?


kudos for doing it right

 

 

I have nothing against you Victor
I'm an asshole to everyone, I just call it like I see it.
Glad you got some good wrench time on your MDX.
It should serve you reliably. It really is a good vehicle.

I will say it is important to reseal.
There are posts of leaks that are seemingly insignificant.
End up leaking enough oil to trigger low oil warning before OCI
Which is about 1-1.5 qts in sump.

That's dangerous alone
But less oil also means higher contaminant load
and possibly issues getting to pressure and staying at proper pressure

 

 

So do you believe me that the TB was dry even the oil pump is leaking? Nice to see you get it reseal the proper way. Mine still awaiting for 105k service come up next.

 

 

When mechanic was under the car he commented that it looked like my oil pan gasket was leaking. Said no big deal....not losing anything on the ground or from the dipstick. Just more "visual"....I usually just spray it down and clean it with brake cleaner or something, every once in a while.

But when I was trying to track down a "buring smell" (like oil hitting an exhaust part), I noticed I was leaking at the front valve cover gasket, which I replaced and cleaned the area. But still having some smell issues so I looked around and found a bolt covered in oil (I may take a pic later but it is hard to see). The location is: I open the hood and facing down on my left side, looking down below, left of the power steering pump, lower area, almost by oil pan...is where i see the oil on the bolt. I am guessing that while the oil pan gasket may be shot (year 2000 with 190K), the oil pump seal may be gone too. Not sure why Acura did not mention it to me when they recently replaced the timing belt hydraulic tensioner, especially because during a trip previous to that, Acura tech mentioned that due to age/mileage, any oil leak that I see or smell is probably related to oil pump (he said it matter of fact, as if he has seen it many times before). He told me not to worry about it since I wasn't losing any oil between oil changes. Said it was just an annoyance but to ignore it for now.

Anyway.....my question is: Isnt the oil pump located behind the timing belt cover? So if the oil pump is leaking, how is it visible? Wouldnt the leak be inside the cover? Or does it seep through somewhere? Sorry for the stupid question.

Thanks!!!

 

Hell yeah.. they fucked you.
Like why save this guy on labor. We'll fuck him twice.
Have him spending 2x on labor for a $10 fix

Oil pump is partly under the footprint of the lower cover. It's relatively large, sits flush behind crank pulley.
Oil will seep from any part of the seal, either the front main seal (crank pulley seal), or along the bevel.

It may start as no big deal
But before you need a new timing belt, it'll turn into a nuisance in the least.
Keep cardboard under the car. Getting oil stains off concrete is a bitch.

 

Burning smell might be oil hitting the 3rd cat
Sits right behind pan, drips down, slings off pan onto cat

 

Sound like you got alot of experience as a car collector lmao....

 

oil pump leak leaks through the lower timing belt cover. What you might be looking at is s shot VTEC solenoid gasket leaking. VTEC solenoid is bolted to the left side of the oil pump with the oil filter screwed on to it. That would be "visible" part. The rest of the oil pump is covered behind the lower timing belt cover.

 

Pretty late to the party on this one I am considering I just bought my Type S 4 Months ago. However helpful information.
Basically I gather one should do it/have it done period when doing the timing belt, however, is there ever a reason to consider replacing the oil pump all together? (really wishing i remembered to ask for the maintenance records the previous owner mentioned before I left, knowing my luck it is either spewing oil or has already been done :/)
I only have 71K on it but still will plan on resealing it just wanted to make sure there is no reason to replace the oil pump assembly (aside from it physically not pumping oil or otherwise critically damaged).
Also I discovered Honda either told Aisin to stop making it or Aisin just decided to discontinue making it (15100-RGL-A01).
There are still aftermarkets floating around but in a performance sports sedan that is driven as such, an item I really don't want to have made by questionable factories is the thing solely tasked in keeping the engine moving.

Anyone have part numbers on the two (maybe three) o rings for this job? I can't seem to find them.
Anyone have a preference between hondabond or regular RTV (black i assume) for the oil pump housing?

Rants Below about 85% of the second page being a time waste, feel free to ignore.



 

Go to the vendor section of this forum, pick one of the two Acura Parts suppliers, enter your car data, look under engine; oil pump.

I've seen both hondabond and regular black RTV mentioned on this forum with favorable results.

 

There is no point in replacing the oil pump all together unless you damage it while removing it.

It is impossible that you aren't able to find part numbers, they are all over sites like rockauto.com and www.acuraautomotiveparts.org . There is a master "timing cover gasket set", this is what I used. MAHLEJV5086 . This has the crankshaft front seal, oil pump seal, oil pickup tube seal, VTEC solenoid and oil pressure switch seals.

Use Hondabond only. I ended up redoing the pan again a month ago because Permatex ultra grey didn't work out, long story.

 

I think this is the first account I've heard.. good to know. Usually permatex is preferred because of price and application. In regards to new oil pump, I think it's only 120ish.. if you have a high mileage ride, it's cheap insurance.

 

Bought the Fel-Pro #TCS 46026 kit and HondaBond HT #087-180-004. Will post both short term and long term results after it is done.
It would be if aisin still made them anymore , only 71K so hopfully I dont have to worry about it for awhile.

 

I'm a Hondabond virgin too and was just recently told about it's virtues and how even other brands use it because it's just that good.
This is from Acura Tech friends that swear by it.

 

Hondabond, is more tacky when applying and stays very flexible more than Permatex once cured. It also has a higher temp resistance at 675 degree F than Permatex at 500 degree F. I did the pan last year in May, It was all good and leak free until I hit a piece of drywall flying and tumbling around on the highway in November. The drywall caused enough vibration to spring a leak around a small section of the pan. I have nailed other things on the highway in the past, when it was still on Hondabond, but nothing happened, no leak. I used Honda Ultra Flange II this time, which is a gas filled Hondabond can that makes applying much easier, rather than constantly squeezing a tube of Hondabond HT.

You can buy lightly used J series pump on ebay for just $75. They are all the same for AV6, Odyssey, Pilot, TL, Ridgeline.

 

Used oil pump EEEK. If there is nothing else available or no one can rebuild it then sure.
Do you think hondabond HT will hold up well for the oil pump and pan?