Transmission issue?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Transmission issue?
Hey guys. For those who read my other thread about the B codes this has nothing to do with it. That issue was resovlved, a couple months back I got a LUK clutch installed, about a month after I started hearing a ticking noise coming from the transmission. I started a thread and most of you guys told me it was the throw out bearing. Well my car has been in the mechanic since yesterday and they brought my transmission down and replaced the throw out bearing in the clutch. The noise was still happening my mechanic said. He said it was something inside the transmission that it's nothing with the clutch. Also the 3rd gear problem was fixed in my car 2 months before I put in the clutch. When the Acura dealer fixed the 3rd gear issue they put the new modified tranny oil. When I installed my clutch my mechanic just put any tranny oil. I wonder if the ticking could be cause by this. I saw some videos of cars with bad throw bearings and the noise are a lot louder and obnoxious than mine is. You cant even here the ticking in my car with the windows up. And if I lay my foot on the clutch I don't even have to press it down the ticking stops. Since I'm still under warranty I was thinking of dropping the car of at the Acura dealer, what I'm
Scared of is that it has something to do with the clutch and they'll charge me for bringing the transmission down since the clutch wouldbt be covered under warranty. Everyone chime in and Lmk what you think I should do. Thanks
Scared of is that it has something to do with the clutch and they'll charge me for bringing the transmission down since the clutch wouldbt be covered under warranty. Everyone chime in and Lmk what you think I should do. Thanks
#4
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
If you depress the pedal and the noise stops, it certainly isn't the throwout bearing. When the pedal is depressed is when the throwout bearing begins to move/turn and the transmission stops turning. So if you press down on the pedal and there is no noise, nothing to do with the clutch, pp, or pilot bearing, it's inside the trans. Let the pedal up, the trans input shaft starts the gears moving and noise is audible, need to pull the trans apart. At least that's my take.
#5
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
I would assume the noise is RPM dependent, meaning that it changes with the RPM of the motor.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for all your help turbonut. I really appreciate it. Heres the updated news, I got my car last night. They put new tranny oil, replaced the throw out bearing , and another bearing that's all the way behind the fly wheel. When I drove the car out of the mechanic no noise at all. I parked it at my house and let it sit for a while on, and still no noise so I was happy till this morning I go warm up my car before work go back in my house 10 mins later go back out side and there's that lil ticking noise again as I lay my foot On the clutch it goes away. I'm taking it to Acura this Friday, I just don't want them blaming it on the clutch when it's deff something else.
Last edited by **WhItE-aNgEl**; 02-15-2012 at 07:39 AM.
#7
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
When the noise is heard, pull up on the pedal to see if it changes. Also the bottom front (front side is foot contact side) of the pedal should be 7.52" from the floor with the mat removed.
Also, the TO bearing and pilot bearing (middle of the flywheel-simplistic explanation) will only start working when the pedal is depressed. When the pedal is at rest neither will be turning so it was certainly a waste of time.
Also, the TO bearing and pilot bearing (middle of the flywheel-simplistic explanation) will only start working when the pedal is depressed. When the pedal is at rest neither will be turning so it was certainly a waste of time.
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#8
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
I wonder if they installed the PP correctly. The luk clutch still has the same self adjustment feature and if the fingers are not depressed with the special Honda tool while tightening the PP it will not seat properly. Or maybe as simple as a pedal adjustment...
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I measured it and it's at 7.52" . I tried pulling it up when it was making the sound but nothing happened. Only when I press the clutch. Is that lil hand called a PP or is that an abbreviation? I think that could be the problem.
#11
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Best I could do, in a hurry:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2906305...Types&var=sbar
Top-PP pressure plate or clutch cover
Bottom-clutch disc
Top Right-Throw out or clutch release bearing
Bottom Left-Clutch alignment tool and pilot bearing
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2906305...Types&var=sbar
Top-PP pressure plate or clutch cover
Bottom-clutch disc
Top Right-Throw out or clutch release bearing
Bottom Left-Clutch alignment tool and pilot bearing
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Best I could do, in a hurry:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2906305...Types&var=sbar
Top-PP pressure plate or clutch cover
Bottom-clutch disc
Top Right-Throw out or clutch release bearing
Bottom Left-Clutch alignment tool and pilot bearing
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2906305...Types&var=sbar
Top-PP pressure plate or clutch cover
Bottom-clutch disc
Top Right-Throw out or clutch release bearing
Bottom Left-Clutch alignment tool and pilot bearing
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Best I could do, in a hurry:
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2906305...Types&var=sbar
Top-PP pressure plate or clutch cover
Bottom-clutch disc
Top Right-Throw out or clutch release bearing
Bottom Left-Clutch alignment tool and pilot bearing
http://compare.ebay.com/like/2906305...Types&var=sbar
Top-PP pressure plate or clutch cover
Bottom-clutch disc
Top Right-Throw out or clutch release bearing
Bottom Left-Clutch alignment tool and pilot bearing
#17
Team Owner
The only way you could hurt a 6mt from overfilling is if the fluid gets aerated and it's highly unlikely that could happen since the fluid is specifically designed to address this issue. You can get leaks and there's a very small chance you could run into shifting problems but it would be very hard to do permanent damage.
Did the noise start after the 3rd gear fix was done? I would highly suspect the dealer if they tore the trans apart. It's happened many times during the 3rd gear fix.
I can't remember the other threads, when does the noise occur?
Did the noise start after the 3rd gear fix was done? I would highly suspect the dealer if they tore the trans apart. It's happened many times during the 3rd gear fix.
I can't remember the other threads, when does the noise occur?
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The only way you could hurt a 6mt from overfilling is if the fluid gets aerated and it's highly unlikely that could happen since the fluid is specifically designed to address this issue. You can get leaks and there's a very small chance you could run into shifting problems but it would be very hard to do permanent damage.
Did the noise start after the 3rd gear fix was done? I would highly suspect the dealer if they tore the trans apart. It's happened many times during the 3rd gear fix.
I can't remember the other threads, when does the noise occur?
Did the noise start after the 3rd gear fix was done? I would highly suspect the dealer if they tore the trans apart. It's happened many times during the 3rd gear fix.
I can't remember the other threads, when does the noise occur?
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Here's the video. It's not that great cuz it was raining but tomorrow should be nice out and I'll make a better one. But when you stop hearing the ticking that's when I had my foot on the clutch. It wasn't pressed down. My foot was just resting on the pedal.
Last edited by **WhItE-aNgEl**; 02-16-2012 at 07:44 PM. Reason: Forgot to add the video lmao
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I just went for a drive and noticed when I make right hand turns the noise stops, when I make left hand turns it doesn't stop. When I'm in a stop and Turn the steering wheel to the right it still makes the noise. Hmm now I'm really confused
#28
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Even though you checked the pedal to the carpet distance, I would make certain the rod has play before pushing on the master cylinder. Disconnect it from the pedal and see if there is any play before resistance is felt in the master cylinder. If there is no play you can adjust the rod to correct the condition but there are a couple of switches that might need to be adjusted also, as you can see them contacting the pedal. Just make certain that any movement or adjustment of the rod be noted for reference.
#29
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hey everyone I just found out that when I rev the car a lil not pass 3k the noise gets louder but disapates .when I let go of the accelerator the noise is gone than comes back slowly. This is at idle in neutral. So now idk if it's the trans or maybe just the engine valves. But why would it completely stop if I have the clutch pedal pressed? I'm extremely confused now. Any help? Oh also when I warm up the car in the morning there's no noise, but when I start driving and I stop at wawa for coffee and get out of the car you can here the noise again. Wtf can it be?
#32
Team Owner
The crankshaft thrusts forward usually when a load is applied. It shouldn't be more than a thousandth of an inch or two but it might be enough to make the noise in the trans or clutch come or go.
#33
'08 TL, Base, 5AT
That's puzzling. I watched the video and it sounds like a belt or pulley issue to me. Does it go away if you increase the revs? If it's the clutch, it may mean going back to a stock clutch, but that would be a pricey option with no guarantee the noise might stop.
#34
Instructor
Did you ever solve the problem? My 05 TL 6 speed also is making that sound. It also started after replacing the clutch, but about 8 months after. I replaced it with exedy oem clutch though, not luk. The noise also goes away when i press the clutch, and it usually only does it when the engine is cold.
#35
Hello - Any updates on this thread? I have a 2006 that makes a similiar noise any time the clutch pedal is not depressed slightly. I am guessing this is a throw out bearing but it would be good to know if the folks in this thread were ever able to pinpoint the problem.
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