BoricuaTL

iTrader: (1)

went to drop off my girl at work yesterday. as i go to pull away car shuts off. wont turn on no matter what. fast forward a few hrs it gets towed to the family mechanic. fast forward 24 hrs he says the timing belt slipped and bent some valves.

how im forced to fix this issue. should i go all OEM or upgrade while torn apart? anything else i can do while this stuff is apart to avoid further issues?

any aftermarket product you guys have experience with that you would suggest?

timing belt was done 20k miles ago. idk how the hell this happened

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

have the heads re-machined and get oem parts.

erdoc48

Questions:
-mileage on the car
-were the water pump and belt tensioner changed with the belt?

Otherwise, it would be extremely unlikely that the belt would 'slip' if the proper parts were installed when the TB was done (unless of course something was done wrong when that service was done)

BoricuaTL

iTrader: (1)

thats the original plan just dont know if there's anything better i should be lookin at. the car is supercharged
the timing belt service was done right before i bought the car off the original owner.

-car has 98*** miles on it
-the timing belt was done along with the tensioner, water pump, full tuneup, brakes, etc (or so it says on the receipt i was given)

nfnsquared

What does that mean?

I hate cars

It won't turn over on the starter or it turns over but won't start? If it jumped one tooth it should do something, a backfire or kickback or something. If its lost a bunch of compression including cam timing being off or bent valves it should turn over faster than normal on the starter.

Lets make sure its not an easy fix first. If it turns out to be a broken belt or a belt that skipped a tooth it's a good idea to talk to your mechanic and try to figure out what's really been replaced and what was lied about. Skipping a tooth is usually a symptom of another type of failure.

BoricuaTL

iTrader: (1)

car tries to turn over but wont physically start up. mechanic verified that all coils have spark. starter is also in good condition. verified compression and it measures up fine until it hits a spot were it drops all compression then it grabs back up again. waiting for him to have some time to continue dissassembly and further inspect other issues.

I hate cars

When checking compression, if the gauge used does not have a working one way valve, compression will drop on the power, exhaust, and intake stroke. The gauge will only show compression every 2 revolutions of the engine if the gauge isn't working right. The only reason compression seems steady is because of the check valve in the guage otherwise it would go from 0-190 the whole time you're cranking it.

The fact that it has compression means the belt is not broken. If the compression is within factory spec it's not likely it skipped a tooth. You can have compression with the cam timing slightly off but it's usually going to be lower than spec.

To make an engine run all it takes is compression, ignition (at the right time), and fuel. Has he confirmed it has fuel. Can you hear the pump coming on when you turn the key on? The little things really need to be checked before tearing into the engine. It's easy to check if the cam timing has been altered. I hope he confirms this before going any farther.

One_silly_wabbit

I agree with this guy 100% I have worked for Honda for over 6 years as a tech and I have yet to see a tb slip, the only way that could possibly happen is if your hydraulic tensioner failed which is high doubtful if you only have 98k on the vehicle.

ez12a

to be fair, my hydraulic tensioner was leaking at 70k on my 2004

ekxtreem

i don't think the belt slips easily either, my belt was slack when i took the covers off to do the timing belt job and i suspect now that it was the cause of my failed tensioner. it was squeeling bad and i was getting engine knock before the job. but it is running really good now. video.....

NJAcura2004

that is wayy to much slack. someone f-ed up that timing belt job. glad I do all this stuff myself.

sorry to hear about this bro. new valves will fix it. along with all the timing parts; belt, tensioner and idler pulley.
hope all goes well! or just sue whoever did the work.

ekxtreem

nah that's the original job, i was changing it for the first time. the tensioner was just gone i believe

Alexns05

How long did it take you to change all of that? Just curious.

And you said that it was squealing a while because the tensioner was bad, is this a pretty noticeable squeal? The only reason I ask is because I had my timing belt job done at an independent place a few months back. I should have just had the tentioner replaced as well but the guy said that it wasn't leaking and it looked fine so he didn't replace it. Now I'm kind of worried that the tentioner might just give out and I'd be F'd. Should I be worried? Don't wanna pay another $300 just to get the tentioner changed.

ekxtreem

yeah you should have definitely had that changed, i think that is more likely to go than anything else. the squeel is very noticeable, you won't miss it and to be sure, if you hear a squeel, you can take your serpentine belt off and start the engine for a lil while and see if the squeel is still there, that will tell you if it's coming from the timing belt area.
i started the job about mid day and got up at mid day the next and finished it but i took my time, if you were to change the tensioner alone that would be easy since u not messing with the belt, hardest part would be to get the drive pulley bolt off. here are pics i took of the job......
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13675552909659

Alexns05

Thanks for the info. I'd never be able to do it myself but it's nice to know how everything works!

ekxtreem

don't doubt yourself, it is pretty easy