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I tore into my 08 type s today to find how just how bad the noisy tensioner is and to see what else is going on inside as I've only had the car a week. Soon as I get the top covers off I find out there is a solid 3/4 inch of slack in the belt, I've never done a J series belt before but that is definitely not a good sign. The sun went down right as I got to the point where I would make my marks on the belt then remove it, I took some pictures of how my timing marks are lining up and wanted to see if everything looks in time to you guys considering just how bad this belt is, it was like a ticking time bomb imo and I luckily got to it in time so long as I can get the job done right. Any ideas as to why there would be a mark on the crank? I was thinking maybe from the last timing belt job. Any input is appreciated.
Anyone know if I can start the car with just the belt in place after filling the coolant back up and rotating the engine by hand a few times, I have done this on toyotas before and it never hurt bot those were non interference
Dont forget that crank pulley key, like I did and try to start her up...bad things will happen
I flipped it at first with the bevel out on install and caught it thankfully. I finished the procedure and it started and idled great, low end good power, alot of valve clatter (I think) I think it sorely need an adjustment. Something wierd though is at WOT around 5k rpms it made a sound like a chirping bird and it seemed to misfire. I didnt get any codes and it ran fine through normal driving for an hour after that then I had work. I'm going to try and take a video of the sound to let this community see, it was really strange. Does something going wrong with vtec make a chirpy mechanical noise?
Ordered the 10mm jam nut tool and 2 sets of feelers yesterday along with a gasket set. I plan on doing it this week before a valve gets toasted, I'll post a video of the clatter tomorrow.
Any chance the high rpm chirp and what seems to be lost of power cod be due to valves way out of adjustment? Also when I hand turned the crank while doing the TB service, I did have a significantly less amount of resistance on the 4th full crank rotation. Am I over analyzing something here or is this a compression/valve issue possibly?
Yeah, probably, unless you have valve damage from the slack TB. But if the marks all lined up before pulling the old belt, then you could/should be damage free. Pretty lucky that that belt didn't hop a tooth or two on the front cam sprocket.
Probably. The 5K issue could be a VTEC mechanical issue, or it could be that a valve or valves is/are so slightly bent that it's not noticeable until VTEC kicks in.
Can anyone point me to some reading resources on how to check out and test the vtec system? Could a failing vtec solenoid cause issues like mine? When I dig into the valve adjustment is there anything to look at? Also, could the motor to open the secondaries be failing or stuck causing a chirp you think?