I've got a 05 TL manual. Sometimes there is some play in the pedal. Sometimes it seems a bit sticky upon release. hesistating slightly before coming back up. Then it'll go back to normal and the pedal feels great. I check the level in the clutch master cylinder and it is in between the two marks. Thanks.

 

eventually, your clutch is gonna go....

 

I forgot to mention my clutch is pretty new. Only 5k to 6k miles on it.

 

when i first bought my car at 35k miles, clutch pedal would stick to the ground on HIGH RPM runs.
EVENTUALLY, it started to slip in 5th and 6th gears.

Perhaps who ever did you clutch install, installed something wrong, or didnt replace flywheel, etc.etc. etc .

 

That can't be. The mechanic has done countless clutch installs and everything was replaced.

 

perhaps check the slave and master cylinders.
perhaps bleed the clutch.
perhaps pull clutch and inspect pressure plate and flywheel

 

How can I determine if there's a problem with either the master or slave cylinder if there aren't any visible leaks? I'll try bleeding the clutch.

 

I'm told the clutch is self adjusting? Is this true? If so, how do I get it to stop?

 

Make sure your clutch pedal is actually bolted down to the frame nice and tight, my bolts had managed to work themselves lose

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...inside-860524/

What kind of pressure plate kit did you get? Did you notice the adjustment?

 

OEM clutch, 3rd owner, currently at about 142k miles. Clutch slave changed out at 95k miles with the slave cyl mod, but then around maybe 140 or 141k I started to feel like the clutch was sticking too sometimes, especially when going from a cold start. Did a transmission flush, and about 800 miles or so later, just had the clutch pedal not return when I was about to make a right turn. Towed her home, figured it was the CMC and replaced that myself with a LuK CMC bought off Amazon. Part was $80, but if I were to do it again I'd just do the ktuned one from heeltoe that doesn't have the check valve. Your best bet at this point would be to change out the CMC and probably the slave at the same time, especially if you're high up in the miles.

 

buy a different clutch assembly and flywheel...

from the factory, the TL uses a hydraulic self adjusting clutch and a dual mass flywheel.



I'm with WDpanda...Pressure plate!!!!!!

 

I'm going to start with the clutch slave cylinder. I've been wanting to do the check valve delete mod anyway.

 

dont expect a huge change...Didnt solve my sticking clutch, although I did gain by doing the CVD mod

 

If there's one thing I've learned in 15 years of owning a 6MT 3G TL, it's REPLACE THE FLYWHEEL EVERY TIME YOU DO A CLUTCH! The design of these dual mass flywheels is such that they wear along with the clutch in such a way that their replacement is absolutely necessary as they cannot be resurfaced. I learned this the hard way. LUK (the OEM supplier of our clutch) recommends this without fail! Rockauto has them for around $200.
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