rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Ok...so went with CMAX pads from duralast...I'll be changing them in the next few days. Soooo...are the brembo rotors meant to handle ceramic? AND what is the best cheap solution for cleaning the rotors of semi metallic material? Since they have lifetime warranty, I'll be sticking with the cmax from now on.

Also,
Changed slave cylinder yesterday for the clutch. Anyway, in the service manual it says to bleed ALL air out of the system you may have to block movement of the switch fork for the transmission with a piece of wood. Do they mean to wedge a piece of wood between the engine bay and the fork and then bleed. It's almost 100% but I can tell there's air in the system right now.

Thank you!

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

What part of the braking system do you have a lifetme warranty on? Pads and rotors are wear items, so I would look at what the lifetime warranty is on, because for pads that seems crazy.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

it's for the pads. and yes, it does seem crazy...but true.

01tl4tl

lifetime brake pads doesnt mean they last forever- it means WHEN they wear out just take them back and get a free replacement set,,and only as long as you own the car

And while you are there,, pick up some oil change stuff and seafoam and maybe some....
its a scam to get you in the store over and over~

For the slave cyl bleed (disclaimer- not owning a gen3)

At the shop this is how we did a normal slave
Get a small squirt type oil can $3 and put new clean brake fluid in it- avoid making bubbles of air IN the fluid- by pouring gently and slowly
Place the slave in a bench vise- wrap a towel around it to protect finish
Not clamped so tight it crushes- just holds it for you
Now add fluid thru the hole for the metal line and in the res. with a small block of wood- pressing from your stomach keeping a level angle between the exerted force and the rod on the slave
Pump the rod in slightly and back off, repeat - adding fluid as needed-making longer motion each time--you dont want the still new rubber oring running dry thru the length - so prefill helps that
It will draw fluid down into the slave. Keep doing that until all the air you can get is out, it will bubble up in the res, it wont be perfect bled but very close.
Now install on car- hook up- and do a pump a few times and hold- open bleeder--same as doing brakes but less area of movement
If the pedal gets firmer with 2 pumps you have air

Then it would mean place a block between the fork and the rod- bolt the slave in place and do a bleed- that would change the total stroke of the internal shaft and let the trapped air out
Probably easist to plan on doing that for the last bit, then remove block and reinstall slave
Instead of dinking around install test remove install fix remove install geez what a waste- if the book says maybe, or do it,- do it

01tl4tl

you dont have to use a squirt can- just fill thru the res top
I use a can when filling brake calipers to get fluid everywhere
slaves are so small its not a real issue, but trust me here- a good prefill and bench bleed will save 30 minutes of frustration

01tl4tl

to remove old pad material from rotors- some 120 or 150 grit sandpaper is great- I use a sheet of the black- wet/dry stuff with some wd- its messy but good
do a straight across first with a flat piece of wood,then finish swirls are optional

I did that on my bike to watch the pads bedding in~ watch the swirls disappear
Wash rotors after - brake fluid cleaner spray them well- remove all remnant of grit
Ok to soap and water wash the rotors if you can air dry them with air pressure (or hair dryer)

Make sure to use brake caliper grease- CRC hi temp synthetic is proven good.
clean the pad slides- end clips in the bracket and regrease them
When you apply the brakes the pads have to move 1-2 mm across that slider just to contact the rotor- then more as pressure is really applied-
the tab on the end of the pads is for that movement on the slider

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Thank you for all your information! By the time I'm reading this I figured it out.

All of the tips above definitely make sense and would work. I will say that I was able to bleed the slave by dipping the end into the end of the brake bottle...tilting it over to the end of the slave was immersed, then pulled the push rod thing like a syringe to completely fill the cylinder. To bleed (that was a task, since I took it back off to do this after first installing dry) I ended up wedging part of a broom handle between the brake rotor and the tranny fork thing to limit movement (there's a clip and with the tire off you can access the slave with moving the plastic lining down). Bled it a few times..saw a buttload of bubbles (would explain still having to pump the clutch to go into gear today!) and voila. My CLUTCH IS BACK TO NORMAL! Thank goodness.

Anyway...pads were the easiest ever. I did as you said...even had some CRC synthetic graphite stuff left in my garage. Used that in additon to cleaning and reapplying the shims and that's all. Put in the duralast Cmax gold ceramic pads and no noise...stopping power is a little reduced (as in I can tell I have to press the pedal a LITTLE harder than before for same stopping power) but I'll take the tradeoff with MUCH less dust and a one time 60 dollar charge for pads. That works for me. I don't autox or anything.

Thanks again for the tips...if I end up hearing any squeals I'll definitely attempt the above stated cleaning technique!

J.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

note: also, I know the pads don't last forever...but even if they only last another 40K miles...I would have to go into A store to buy new ones period. Might a well spend my hard earned money at a place giving me my new set of pads free! Lol...I have self control anyway, I shop a lot...with my eyes...my wallet only ever really sees things I determine I NEED!

Again, thank you for your help.

Jeremy.

lldknyll26

Friend of mine told me that AUto zone gives you lifetime warranty on brake pads. He would use them for 8K miles and bring them back to autozone for a free replacement.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

That sounds about right. The guy at autozone told me to bring them back whenever to get new ones...

Redlantrn

Hey Rockstar,

What are your impressions after having the Duramax pads on your car so far? Would you recommend them?

Thanks.

JJ

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Honestly...they are comparable to stock, MINUS the dust and cost. I would recommend them to anyone. Make sure to put the synthetic caliper grease when installing and you should be able to avoid any noise.

NOTE: I did NOT resurface rotors...just did a few hard stops to clean the old material off (bedding). No noise and no problems. I DO notice some brake fade when stopping hard repeatedly, but honestly...I don't autoX or anything so there's really no practical time when I would do this during driving anyway. Great upgrade. Stock brembo's eat up the caliper, cost 195 bucks even with a hookup, and leave more dust than a new mexico sandstorm. Duramax Cmax gold are the way to go.