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I just replaced mine last week and it was pretty darn easy.. It's just 2 10mm nuts, shouldn't be too tough. I just used a 10mm 6 point socket, 6 inch extension, and a 3/8" ratchet.
On my car, 2005 TL, the pcv is held by one bolt torqued to 9 foot pounds (A in the attached picture). Is it that bolt that is seized or the pcv valve itself? Several posters have had problems with the valve sticking to its housing. Sometimes the long shaft is so stuck that the shaft breaks off inside.
If your problem is the bolt that holds the PCV valve I would try PB blaster or my new favorite Kroil. Best results if you soak overnight. IMHO do not use a breaker bar for a bolt that is torqued for 9
foot pounds. That bolt should not need much muscle to remove. Too much muscle on a bolt that small will break the bolt and give you another type of problem.
If the valve itself it stuck. Be very careful as the valve is plastic and the shaft can break off inside. I would use vice-grips to hold onto the area marked B in the image and gently work it back and forth.
how the hell it seized? the bolt is there to hold it in place not like it was torque down to 90 FT-LBS, just for a fare share my Red TL is from CT/NYC area and yet that bolt came out easily with a 1/2 ratchet and 6 point 10mm socket.
I know it sound stupid but make sure you loosen the bolt instead of tightening it
Maybe I should have refrained from using the term breaker bar, but generally just use something longer. If you're using a 3/8" wrench, step up to 1/2" and it should come off no problem.
It shouldn't be seized, just needs to be cracked loose.
You put in X amount of force thinking it's seized, step up to something little larger and put in the same X amount of force, comes off easy.
A small breaker bar won't cause harm, though, especially for a bolt that shouldn't be corroded
Last edited by guitarplayer16; Jun 18, 2018 at 12:31 PM.
Maybe I should have refrained from using the term breaker bar, but generally just use something longer. If you're using a 3/8" wrench, step up to 1/2" and it should come off no problem.
It shouldn't be seized, just needs to be cracked loose.
You put in X amount of force thinking it's seized, step up to something little larger and put in the same X amount of force, comes off easy.
A small breaker bar won't cause harm, though, especially for a bolt that shouldn't be corroded
The thing is, this is a 10mm bolt; I rather doubt even the most stuckest of stuck 10mm bolts can put up enough resistance to justify a 3/8 drive socket, much less a 1/2 drive monster. Heck, even my 1/4 drive socket kit has a 10mm socket, and I don't think it has ever failed to remove a bolt, regardless of how stuck it was.
Circling back to a 3/8 drive 10mm socket and wrench combo, even with that much torque I'm betting the average person could twist the head right off the bolt if it was really stuck.
Just use a 6 point socket and a 3/8 ratchet. Make sure it is rotating in the correct direction and give it a few good taps with your palm. Shouldn't need more than that unless it was cross threaded when installed before, hopefully for you that's not the case. Good Luck!
Recently replaced mine and it took all of 5 minutes.
Never mind guys I got it loose. I sprayed penetrating oil on it let it soak for a couple of days. Then sprayed it again and I got I loose. I just didnt want to snap it off.
Never mind guys I got it loose. I sprayed penetrating oil on it let it soak for a couple of days. Then sprayed it again and I got I loose. I just didnt want to snap it off.
