Rear Toe bolt seized, can't do alignment???
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Cruisin'
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Rear Toe bolt seized, can't do alignment???
Hey guys,
I have a 2006 Acura TL base that i just bought and installed Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs.
Now the same shop that did the springs install offered to do the alignment. Upon inspection the mechanic said that 3 of the 4 toe bolts were seized and that the only way to do the alignment was to get an aftermarket camber kit (Ingalls) and isntall those while they break the toe bolts off?
They wanted to charge me 600 bucks for the parts, labor and alignment afterwards.
My question is, can't they do anything about the seized bolts? I know i don't need a camber kit as long as the toe alignment is done properly, but it sounds like this place isn't even giving me any other options.
Any advice would be appreciated!
I have a 2006 Acura TL base that i just bought and installed Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs.
Now the same shop that did the springs install offered to do the alignment. Upon inspection the mechanic said that 3 of the 4 toe bolts were seized and that the only way to do the alignment was to get an aftermarket camber kit (Ingalls) and isntall those while they break the toe bolts off?
They wanted to charge me 600 bucks for the parts, labor and alignment afterwards.
My question is, can't they do anything about the seized bolts? I know i don't need a camber kit as long as the toe alignment is done properly, but it sounds like this place isn't even giving me any other options.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Rather than writing again:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/alignment-830375/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/alignment-830375/
rather than missing the information....then coming back and complaining.
Better look into another shop if they think there is a camber adjustment on the TL.
I would try and free up the bolt first:
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...DJUSTING_BOLT#
Click on diagram #18.
Once the bolt is free to turn, then take it to another shop to see what the specs are before making a decision on the aftermarket parts.
I'd first free up the frozen bolt either by using PB Blaster or the like for a couple of days, or some heat. Sometimes those bolts present quite a challenge as they are frozen inside. After the release of the bolt, take it to another shop to get the alignment. The difference in camber doesn't look good, and as the rear toe is out and chewing up the tires, that shop is out also.
Better look into another shop if they think there is a camber adjustment on the TL.I would try and free up the bolt first:
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...DJUSTING_BOLT#
Click on diagram #18.
Once the bolt is free to turn, then take it to another shop to see what the specs are before making a decision on the aftermarket parts.
Just to add-As the bolt goes through a sleeve that's inside the rubber insulator inside the arm, it can/will rust to the sleeve making it difficult to remove. Have seen the bolt actually break the sleeve loose and turn the sleeve inside the rubber, then the only way is to cut the head off and the threaded portion of the bolt, then replace the arm. If you or someone has an impact, that also has worked, but I'd spray plenty of lubricant on the area and keep it saturated before attempting removal. Even if the lower arm is destroyed, a new one is only $78 list $58 net from Acura. If the car is not modified (suspension) in any way, a new arm would be the way to go rather than the expense of aftermarket adjustable parts. Apply plenty of never-seize inside the sleeve when assembling.
Main concern would be the alignment specs, front and rear, after the bolt situation is completed.
Main concern would be the alignment specs, front and rear, after the bolt situation is completed.
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Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 425
Likes: 3
From: pittsburgh, pa
so i gotta thread jack, i have 2 rear siezed toe bolts. i bought the bolts but not the washer and nuts. i guess i can use any washer or nut (metric)? also i got under my car a look at the bolt in question. it looks just like a bolt connecting the control arm and chassie rather than an adjusting bolt. Can someone explain how they adjust the toe? i bought #18 from the parts diagram.
Look at #19, it's the cam plate (elliptical), not a washer.
Look closely on your car, under the nut, and you'll see a boss on the mounting bracket that the cam plate rests against. As the bolt is turned, the cam plate being elliptical will move the wheel in or out.
Always a good idea to replace the nuts, although recommended, not many do it.
Look closely on your car, under the nut, and you'll see a boss on the mounting bracket that the cam plate rests against. As the bolt is turned, the cam plate being elliptical will move the wheel in or out.
Always a good idea to replace the nuts, although recommended, not many do it.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 190
Likes: 18
From: Rochester, NY
Just got my new tires mounted and went to get an alignment today and got the same great news: both rear toe bolts are seized inside the sleeve. The right rear is at .47* (not good) so I'm trying to get this fixed without shredding my new tires. I am considering the option of buying all new parts, but I would like to just get these unseized. I already drenched it with PB blaster (after the mechanic tried using some sort of penetrating oil earlier) so in the mean time I'm debating whether or not to use a torch to heat it up. My question is: where do you concentrate the heat from the torch? I don't want to melt the rubber and have a car that's not driveable. Do you heat the arm itself, the tip of the main bolt, or do you just try to hit around that inner sleeve and try not to melt too much? Any other options?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,473
Likes: 188
From: Dallas
Three Wheelin'
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,773
Likes: 167
From: PA/ NY/ FL
put a torch to it ( the yellow can ) and heat that sucker up. then use a strong air tool to drive that bolt right out.
Unless that bolt is rusted to shit. I've always been able to successfully remove rusted items this way.
Unless that bolt is rusted to shit. I've always been able to successfully remove rusted items this way.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,473
Likes: 188
From: Dallas
Sure the lower arm can adjust the camber by changing the length of the lower arm but that is not a good way to do it. Because extending or shortening the lower arm will move the tire closer or further away from the car on the bottom edge, where it sits on the ground and supports the car. I wouldn't change the camber that way but you can if you want to have 1 tire offset from the other.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,473
Likes: 188
From: Dallas
Furthermore, it's not good to have every arm adjustable for that specific reason of moving the wheel out of its original oem position. You need to keep a solid point of reference. Otherwise, adjust here, and adjust there, and adjust another place and next thing you know your wheel hub is so far moved from its original position that it handles weird.. assuming it doesn't cause uneven wear
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 30,487
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From: In an igloo
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 30,487
Likes: 4,417
From: In an igloo
Furthermore, it's not good to have every arm adjustable for that specific reason of moving the wheel out of its original oem position. You need to keep a solid point of reference. Otherwise, adjust here, and adjust there, and adjust another place and next thing you know your wheel hub is so far moved from its original position that it handles weird.. assuming it doesn't cause uneven wear
Not sure why everything would go so drastically out of whack for you... take one arm off, match the new one to the old one and install it. As with any suspension work, an alignment is mandatory afterwards. There's no two ways about it.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 30,487
Likes: 4,417
From: In an igloo
Sure the lower arm can adjust the camber by changing the length of the lower arm but that is not a good way to do it. Because extending or shortening the lower arm will move the tire closer or further away from the car on the bottom edge, where it sits on the ground and supports the car. I wouldn't change the camber that way but you can if you want to have 1 tire offset from the other.
How else would you do it? I can't speak for the TL, but on my Z, that's exactly how you adjust the camber. The rear arm is adjustable and can be lengthened or shortened. By the end of the day, you're moving it millimeters, not inches. Not sure why you're concerned about the bottom edge of the tire... I'd be concerned about the top rubbing. Bumping the wheels out a few millimeters won't do anything.
I would recommend going with OEM toe arms paired with upper SPC camber arms any day over the Ingalls kit - mainly due to the mass amount of rubber bushing failures which causes your alignment to go out of spec.
That was a known issue a couple years ago but now Ingalls has released arms with spherical bushings - which cost a lot, which I why I prefer the upper SPC camber arms.
but yeah, there's no difference in alignment specs if you use the upper arm kit or lower arm kit - the ingalls kit still retains the upper arm as a reference point, and instead of turning the cam bolt on the OEM arm to adjust toe, it uses the threaded arms to adjust length. The arm closer to the front of the car would adjust the camber.
the positive of using ingall arms over the upper arms is that you have more range of adjustment - something those stance guys need
That was a known issue a couple years ago but now Ingalls has released arms with spherical bushings - which cost a lot, which I why I prefer the upper SPC camber arms.
but yeah, there's no difference in alignment specs if you use the upper arm kit or lower arm kit - the ingalls kit still retains the upper arm as a reference point, and instead of turning the cam bolt on the OEM arm to adjust toe, it uses the threaded arms to adjust length. The arm closer to the front of the car would adjust the camber.
the positive of using ingall arms over the upper arms is that you have more range of adjustment - something those stance guys need
Last edited by guitarplayer16; May 7, 2018 at 08:14 PM.
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