Hi,

06 TL MT 75k
(Dealership)
I went to get an alignment and was told the rear driver toe is out which I knew, so they say the adjuster is siezed and cant align it.
I have been taking it to firestone to check last couple months and they kept telling me it was in spec or ok?! WTH

$385 to repair not including alignment of course
Overall rear toe is out also

They also said I need to lower ball joints( Compliance Bushing) The camber specs are right on the edge 0.0 ,-1.0
$1100

Are there cheaper alternative to fix. I just bought 2 new rear tires because the inner wall wore out on one due to the toe being out of spec.

Thanks in advance

 

If your intent on paying a pro to do it, shop around. Pretty much any independent shop will be cheaper than the dealership. If you are pretty savvy with cars and have a decent set of tools, consider replacing all those parts yourself, then paying for an alignment.

You could also just do the 385 dollar repair and see if the tires will wear evenly without changing the lower ball joints. However, tires can get expensive too...

 

the firestone alignment rack may not be calibrated correctly, OR the dealer's rack is not calibrated correctly.

dealer's are usually pretty stringent about their routine for calibrating their equipment. the big box shops...i'm not entirely sure about. bad experiences with big box tire shops have steered me away from them. my dealer takes care of car well. and yes i pay a good chunk of change. certain things they have not done, but most of the mantenance has been done by my dealer.

you could certainly find a reputable indy that works on imports in your area for a 2nd opinion (not a big box chain shop).

the other option, buy the parts you need and take them to the dealer or a tuner shop. just some other ideas...g/l.

 

I'd first free up the frozen bolt either by using PB Blaster or the like for a couple of days, or some heat. Sometimes those bolts present quite a challenge as they are frozen inside. After the release of the bolt, take it to another shop to get the alignment. The difference in camber doesn't look good, and as the rear toe is out and chewing up the tires, that shop is out also.

 

Thanks for all the replies.

I checked with firestone they want 575 claim their control arm has adjustments for camber and toe but so does the factory arm I believe.

Turbo suggests pb blaster does anyone have a pic of the arm/bolt where I can try to spray it myself ?

Would it be best to install a new factory arm or just get an adjustable control arm if I cant get that bolt to move?

Thanks

 

Factory has toe adjustment not camber.

 

Better look into another shop if they think there is a camber adjustment on the TL.

I would try and free up the bolt first:
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...DJUSTING_BOLT#

Click on diagram #18.

Once the bolt is free to turn, then take it to another shop to see what the specs are before making a decision on the aftermarket parts.

 

I will try that first. Here are the alignment specs.
Rear Left
Actual Before Range
Camber -1.5 -1.5 -1.5 - -0.5
Toe -.14 -.12 -.16 - 0.16

 

Just to add-As the bolt goes through a sleeve that's inside the rubber insulator inside the arm, it can/will rust to the sleeve making it difficult to remove. Have seen the bolt actually break the sleeve loose and turn the sleeve inside the rubber, then the only way is to cut the head off and the threaded portion of the bolt, then replace the arm. If you or someone has an impact, that also has worked, but I'd spray plenty of lubricant on the area and keep it saturated before attempting removal. Even if the lower arm is destroyed, a new one is only $78 list $58 net from Acura. If the car is not modified (suspension) in any way, a new arm would be the way to go rather than the expense of aftermarket adjustable parts. Apply plenty of never-seize inside the sleeve when assembling.

Main concern would be the alignment specs, front and rear, after the bolt situation is completed.