Saw many cases of endlinks getting broken, but rsb mount getting ripped?
Acura will warranty it and replace the whole rear subframe. But after taking a closer look at the cup where rsb mounts, it looked very weak and will torn again later on.

 

You have the Progress RSB and they warrantied it? Good to know.

I thought that an aftermarket RSB would void that part of the warranty, and if it ever happened to me, I'd need to swap the stock RSB back in before I take it in.

 

I think you are #4 - at least.

 

Anybody know what's causing the damage? How hard are you guys taking corners to cause the damage?

I'm a little nervous to install the one I just ordered now!

 

The aftermarket bar is stronger and won't flex as much as the OE bar, so when in a turn, the end of the bar is trying to keep the car flat, and the resulting force is on that bracket/mount. Simplistic, but sit in chair and put your arm at a 90 degree angle with your elbow on the arm rest, then have someone push down on your hand and you'll feel the elbow pushing down into the chair.

Many cars have this problem, and some even have the end links rip out of the arms. Here's a picture of a support kit, but don't know if any are made for the 3G:
http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/sp...ndustries.html

I would think that if stronger shocks and springs were installed, it may help the problem, but without a doubt, if one can spread the weight to a larger area it would be most beneficial.

 

I get the added force thing, but was curious if the guys with this problem are the ones who are driving their TL like rally cars (which they're obviously not).

As for the support kit, there isn't much info on it. Does that just bolt to the subframe to make it more rigid? That still doesn't solve the potential problem with the end links..... I've done a little research and see that there are stronger end links available, but don't really see where anyone has used them.

 

There are definetly stronger end-links. Even the Moog OE replacements are beefier in construction. But, IMO, that may exacerbate the problem.

The chain must have a weak link. Right now that weak link seems to be the sub-frame bracket for the RSB Bushing. If you strengthen the end-links, won't you put even more pressure/force on the weakest point?

Some have suggested that it's not the "normal" hard-driving that is the problem, but that it is caused by added asymmetric stresses - going over a speed bump at an angle for example. Where not only do you have the "normal" up/down loading side-to-side, but also extra twisting force.

Also, if you go back through the posted failures, I am pretty sure a majority (2 of 3 or 3 of 4 ??) were the Comptech RSB with Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings. Perhaps the stronger bushing is too stiff.

- Just thinking out loud.

 

seems like something has got to give when everything is so stiff... i am surprised that Acura will cover that for you even with a Progress RSB

 

You don't need to drive the car like you're in a ralley, but even when the wheel raises then drops during normal driving, stress is exerted on that bracket as the bar is much stiffer. If it were me, I'd make up my own support to withstand the stress.

 

The hitting a pot hole thing is what has me really worried, because MN roads are basically all potholes! Plus the end of my driveway isn't exactly something you can drive a TL straight up, because of the gutters/angle of the driveway. So my TL is always twisting!

I noticed it seems like the majority of the failures were with the comptech rsb also. This thread is actually the first instance I've seen with the Progress RSB, which is why I'm concerned, because I have one sitting in the garage to be installed.

I'm not sure that there is one sound answer, but based on what I've read here it sounds like a combination that goes something like this:
Add a sway bar, replace endlinks with something "beefier", and come up with a reinforcement for the sub frame.

 

maybe we should contact ASR/comptech to see if they can make us a support? Good thing is that supports usually stiffen up the back more than an arm bar.

 

Stiffer springs and shocks should help the problem. I'm much more careful entering and exiting driveways now but as far as cornering goes, I have fun. You're not going to break anything from cornering.

 

Just curious if you had the Progress RSB set on the stiffer settings (the inner hole) or the normal setting (the outer hole). I also have the Progress RSB, I have mine set on the normal setting and its been fine for the past 20k miles, but I am starting to get worried.

 

^ That's what I was wondering. The guy that installed mine put it on the soft setting and I wanted it on stiffest. But after seeing this, I'm wondering if it would make a difference in stress forces (maybe insignificant ones?). So this has NEVER happened on an OEM bar right? I'm glad for the OP but also surprised Acura would cover this.

 

when it comes to this type of stuff, there are so many factors involved, it's just kind of hard to pin it on one specific thing.
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i think the biggest scenario for alot of people, is that they drop the car, but don't stiff it up enough, or they ride on stock height, with the RSB and the sway and lateral forces eventually tear it/break it... kind of like the CAI + TB spacer idea...

i've had the RSB for a while now and no problems...and i wonder if it's cuz i'm riding stiffer on A-spec? though, i am totally checking the car as soon as i get back from work...lol

 

What? Is there something wrong with doing a CAI + TB? I only ask, because I just added the P2R to my car last weekend and am running the AEM CAI.

 

A handful have posted broken intake tubes at the vibramount. Speculation is that the added width of the TB Spacer puts extra stress on the vibramount and leads to metal fatigue and breakage.

Most/Some have been covered by AEM warranty.

Search the Performance section for detailed posts and pics.

 

I agree with you that stiffer springs/shocks would greatly reduce the tendency to break swaybar mounts.

 

(insert sarcastic tone) Super.....I'm really excited for this to happen to me now.

 

I think the stiffness setings also makes a big difference, because if its on the stiffer setting, you are using the hole closer to the bar, so there is less room to play to allow for movement when the strut compresses or expands.

 

my progress rsb was set on race or stiff setting. and acura will not warranty it if you take it in with progress rsb. make sure to swap them back to stock if your rsb mount breaks too.

mine broke with about 27k miles with the progress rsb. i usually go over many bumps and angled curbs during my daily routine drive. car is lowered on eibach pro springs with koni yellow shocks so i usually take the bumps/curbs at certain angles everytime. this could cause the mount to rip but also the way mount is designed looks pretty weak too.

before the tl, i had a tsx riding one tanabe coils with progress rsb. even after 30k miles with the progress rsb, i never had a issue with the mount or the endlinks breaking off. anyone have a pic of tsx's rsb mount? it'll be nice to compare tsx's rsb mount with tl's

 

Pretty sure the TSX's have ripped some too. IIRC, there was a thread over there with pics. Basically the same as the TL.

 

I wonder if any members reported problems with the Progress RSB being set to the street or normal setting. Also, is it not possible to weld that mount if it breaks? Changing the rear subframe sound like an expensive proposition and I am sure most of us without warranties wouldn't want to do it.

 

If you can find the threads, something like 3 of 4 were running the Comptech RSB. Only 1 that I recall running the Progress bar.

And yes, I think at least one member fixed his by having the sub-frame mounting point re-welded.

 

Ask the dealer if you can have the old subframe if they do replace it. Then send it to me so I can make beefed up swaybar mounts for it

My old SVT Contour ripped the mounts off from the stock swaybar. It happens to all of them when driven hard even when stock. I've repired plenty of them. I made all new mounts out of halved square tubing and then welded them in completely instead of just tack welds like the factory did. Never had one fail since, even with the 24mm hollow sway bar. That car was definition of oversteer and could step the rear end out with ease.

 

Got any picks of the work you did? I'd be interested to see how beefed up you went with it.

 

Is it worth changing the stock 6mt TL 17mm RSB to just the type-s RSB (20mm)? I'm not sure how much difference that would make, but would like to avoid having these (above) types of issues for now.

Thanks!