Hi guys. This may sound weird but I am wondering if these problems are related or if anyone knows how to check for a further solution because i absolutely don't know anything about cars.

On my way to work every morning i have to drive on a smaller road which is kind of bumpy. The traffic in the morning is bad so sometimes i try to get a head and go a little faster (Please forgive me) and 2 times in the past 3 months I've hit a bump and the odometer reset itself like the trip mileage reading (A and B).

About 2 weeks ago i drove to costco and came out to start the car up and put the key in and tried to start the car, but nothing. There was no clicking or anything - and the radio turned on fine and the headlights also worked. Unknowing the problem, i tried to get someone to jump me but nothing was working. He said to turn the lights on and off and try to shift from park to drive back to park . I did both at the same time and Boomm - car starts and i thanked the guy and went on my way.

So in the past 2 weeks i've only driven it maybe 3 days and today did an oil change and no problems.

DOes anyone know if those 2 problems are related or is the odemeter trip bound to reset it self if a huge bump does get hit?

Or does someone know why the car failed to start but the radio worked and why it did start up?

I hope that story made sense, if it is terribly worded or is a dumb question, i am sorry i wasted your 3 minutes for clicking. I am a TL newbie. Thank you for your help.

 

Don't know about the trip odometer resetting but as for the "turning key and nothing" I had this problem since I replaced my starter. At first, it was almost all the time i'd turn the key nothing would happen, then i tried 2 or 3 more times and i'd finally start the car. I checked the wiring on the starter and saw that a wire was lose, so i clamped it down as hard as I can and since then, the problem has almost completely gone. Occasionally, 1 or twice a month, I turn the key and nothing, then I turn it a second time and it starts right away. So i've just lived with the issue, and if it gets more frequent, i'll deal with it then, knowing what the problem is, i'll maybe replace that wire.

 

I wouldn't worry about the odometer, unless it happens all the time. As you likely know, you can change the MID settings to have it reset at each fill. I don't know precisely how it does this, but I suspect there's a sensor which detects the pressure in your tank, and so when you fill, and release the vacuum, the system knows to reset. There are other venting mechanisms, I believe, built into the fuel system, and so going over the right bump, or slamming the car door will also, on occasion, trigger a reset. I believe everyone here has experienced false resets on occasion. Again, unless it's all the time, I wouldn't worry about it happening.

But I may be wrong.

Edit: oops...just realized I waded into 3G without knowing. Again, I could be wrong about the above.

 

I was about to say there's no such thing, but I guess you realized that now.

 

No such thing as what?

 

As the odo resetting at the pump on the 3G TL.

Edit: Oh and it simply uses the level of fuel to reset by the way, hence why sometimes with sloshing it would reset on certain cars.

 

maybe when OP hit bumps in road, battery momentarily loses connection.

OP check battery connection.

 

You got a textbook case of bad grounds or battery connections. Check em all.

 

The starting problem was probably because the transmission was not properly engaged in "park" or "neutral". Either that or the switch that detects the transmission position is becoming dirty and intermittent.

 

Didn't know that the 3G didn't reset. Though, if I'd read more carefully, I would have noticed that OP said both A and B reset, and in the 4G, only A can be programmed to reset at each fill.

And while you might be right about it simply being fuel level, I don' think that's it. Otherwise, it would reset constantly, every time one went up or down a steep hill. Besides, it reset on me once when I pulled into a service station, and took off the gas cap, only to realize I didn't have my wallet, and couldn't add any fuel. Coincidence, perhaps.

My other theory is that they watch each of us using the satellite nav system, and see when we pull into a fuel station...but that theory isn't as well developed as my vacuum theory.

 

Oh wow, very detailed replies. Much appreciated. This is a great forum full of caring Acura enthusiasts. I just wish I am able to maintain my TL even half as good as one of you. I didn't have time to check this thread but I drove it no problem yesterday to work. Again it was a one time thing.

Yes @ Sock. The odometer reset has only happened 2 times when I was careless and speeding to work and went over bumps in the road. I haven't done so anymore and haven't had any unwarranted resets so your reset theory would definitely make sense.

Edit: The Vacuum line one of course. My TL doesn't have NAV =[


But basically I will check for lose wiring / battery connection since it seems that is what you guys think would be the culprit which makes sense.

And @ RDX-Rick, yea I mean I was in park and when I turned they key it wouldn't start. I was simply saying when I was getting it jumped, the guy told me to change from Park to Drive back to Park and at the same time I did that and turned my headlights on and off, the car starts.

Anyways, information is much appreciated. I will check into the status later and get back as if there is anything lose. Thank you everyone. Many Cheers.

 

I'm not sure that you are aware that modern cars make use of a transmission safety switch. This switch makes sure that the engine will only start if the transmission is in Park or Neutral. This switch is an additional safety measure to the transmission/brake interlock which won't let you change from Park to Drive without first stepping on the brake.

When an engine fails to crank, the most common problems are dead battery, dead starter, defective ignition switch or defective transmission safety switch. An engine that cranks but won't start, is the result of other causes.

Because your car started after you moved the gear selector (which operates the safety switch) , it would appear that the transmission switch is the most likely cause of your problem. If you experience the problem again, and moving the gear selector solves the problem, you will have confirmed this as the cause. The repair is very simple and inexpensive.