Hey whats up fellas I have a 2004 Acura TL and for the past month the rear right caliper was sticking and it wouldnt stick all the time so I went ahead and replace the caliper with a new one along with new rotors and brake pads. And it was fine for like two days and now the brand new caliper is sticking and like the old one its not always but sometimes it sticks, I bled the brakes and everything so I have no idea what it could be. My dad told me it could be the ABS/VSA that needs replacement but im not sure. Any help would be great thanks.

 

BUMP..... Anyone??

 

Brake line. If the flexible hose has an internal break it won't allow the fluid to return to the M/C. When it's sticking, try and move the piston back into the bore, and if it doesn't move, open the bleeder and see if the piston can then be pushed back into the caliper.

 

So if the piston moves back in with the bleeder open does that mean the brake line has to be replaced??

 

U know when I bleed the brakes the fronts bleed very easily and fast with a bleed kit and when I bleed the rear right fluid barely came out of the bleeder so I pumped the bleeder pump many times to get the fluid to come out. The rear left bleed just like the front very easily and fluid came out fast. The rear right fluid came out real slow.

 

?

 

I dont get it??

 

Maybe one of your slider pins are stuck?

 

Yes

 

i am having the same sort of prob with my 05, i haven't tried to change out the caliper yet, is there a thread somewhere on here with a DIY/pictures?

 

Ok so I replaced the rear right brake line and the problem still is there and I am out of ideas (NEW CALIPER, ROTOR, PADS, AND BRAKE LINE AND THE CALIPER STILL STICKS)

 

BUMP..... Anyone

 

How did yout test to come to the conclusion it's the caliper? If the caliper piston is sticking because of an internal break in the line, or because of corroded caliper bore, the piston will not be able to be moved back into the caliper. If you did some tests and the piston moved back into the caliper, then look elsewhere. Caliper must side easily, clean slider pins and the bake pad retainers not damaged.

 

New caliper, new retainers and slider pins and brake Line and rotor and brake pad and bled the system three times and the caliper sticks still what else could it be!!

 

The only other brake in the area is the "e" brake. Know you had a problem with the RR ABS sensor and replaced the hub, so I'd jack it up and spin the aseembly to see if any resistance noticed. If so, remove the caliper and spin again to see if any relief or still resistance. You can also compare the rotation to the left rear to be sure.

 

Found the problem here are the pictures

 

Can you explain?

 

Is it cause of rust in the caliper? Because I'm having the same problem.I was looking to rebuild or replace the whole caliper.

 

No. You can see the tab on the brake pad was not seated properly causing it to skew off the piston. This would keep the top half of the pad engaged

 

That's the incorrect pad for the TL. If in fact the part is a 11210 it's for a Mercedes, and the tab on the pad indicates that it's for a screw in rear piston as the tab would be inserted within one of the slots in the piston. The TL has the "normal" push in piston.

 

Im having an issue with my caliper now. The piston was ceased up to I replaced the caliper and my pedal is dropping to the floor. I do have some pressure in the breaking but I have to pump it to stop. I bled all the lines and it still does it. does anybody know what it could be?

 

I have the same problem with my 2007. So...I would like to know how you fix your problem ?

Thanks

 

replace rear caliper...

 

My caliper is brand new...So the same problem godfather have...all is brand new but is not a pad problem....and it's always the rear right....I start to think there a problem with the VSA module....

 

Could you give me what is your problem...I replace pad, caliper ....line...etc...stil dragging at the rear right...help please.

 

godfather's problem was incorrect brake pad