I just replaced the brake lines on my TL with ss lines and I bled the whole system. However, I forgot to re-use the oem bracket on the passenger side rear line. Im talking about the bracket that holds the metal portion of the brake line with the nut to the inside of the wheel well.

I need to disconnect the brake line in order to put the bracket back on. If I disconnect the line do I need to bleed the whole system again? Or just that caliper? Or do nothing?

 

Definelty needs to be bled.

Not sure on the other, but it seems to me that only bleeding that line/caliper would be OK. Don't take my word on that though, I am just a shade tree mechanic (aka hack).

 

I figure bleeding that one caliper cant hurt. Hmmm awaiting 01tl4tl's response lol

 

bleed the side that was opend.
if you feel spongy brake pedal after doing so, well that might tell you to bleed all the system again.
but like i mentioned only side that was opend

 

BTW, on the rears, if you remove the "banjo bolt" on the caliper side of the brake line, you should replace the washers.

These:

 

^I have a base 04...where is that pic from? I dont have that

 

If you can control the loss of fluid by covering the line quickly, you'll probably be fine with bleeding only that caliper. I've changed calipers in the past and have been able to bleed only that caliper and no problem.

 

That pic is the rear passenger side brake line at th caliper for an '07 TL-S.

But you DO have this. Here's the Service Manual Page for an '04 TL (check step #6):

 

sorry guys- this got moved to probs before I saw it on the main page--feel free to PM with questions

If it were my car:
bleed the pass rear that you worked on- do it extra good to be sure air hasn't crept back up the line- thats the danger we are working to prevent

to be extra safe- as brakes are pretty important~
go back and do the entire system- if a few sets doesnt get air from fronts thats good!

next- this is in the factory repair book -
if you have opened the lines for any reason-(like replacing them with SS)
test drive:
from 45mph do 2, ABS active stops- that means both feet buried on the pedal and pedal pulsing rapidly under your foot- may need slick road- throw water on one side of car path, dirt etc,, and some quick turning of steering to simulate going around an accident while under full braking should trigger it

As soon as stopped, get back to 45mph and repeat max effort ABS stop
IF on the 2nd try you felt firmer more solid pedal, there was air in the abs controller- happens all the time doing the SS line install as lines are all open for a bit, with major fluid loss
Assuming better pedal on 2nd test-
that air has now moved to the calipers- on mine it was just LF but you always rebleed all of them in the lf rf rr lr order to get air out--air is tricky about hiding and makes for spongy brake pedal

The ABS plumbing is why the funky bleed order,,

its no longer the logic of farthest brake from master first- now its longest abs plumbing and cross plumbing

 

Since I changed all the lines to ss, and put new wilwood 4pot calipers all around, I think I bled each caliper 3 times going in the correct order. I went through a big bottle of prestone 3 fluid to get the old fluid out. Then I switched to Motul 5.1. I used about 3.5 bottles of the motul.

Nice clear fluid was coming out of each caliper after the 2nd time. I did one more for good luck.

Since it was raining yesterday I did those 2 abs stops from 45 back to back. The pedal felt the same after the 2nd stop.

Is this bracket really necessary? Do the brakes lines move under hard braking?

 

It's there for a reason so I would definitely fix the error. It's not that the line will move only from braking, but the metal line will move with suspension travel as the SS line moves. Don't want a metal line to be able to move at all as after time it will fracture.

 

the `SS` part of the lines is just the braided wrap to protect the inner teflon tube from damage-
the stainless steel braid,,, is itself covered in several mm of plastic to protect it from rocks etc

The line holder bracket is very important- try turning the wheel with it removed and see how easy the line can snag under suspension compression,
then big problems fill the windshield in a hurry!!!

Do the job right- if not the 1st time, then on the `comeback`~ if that makes you feel like a real pro did it! lol

 

im talking about rear wheel so theres no play in the line. but im going to fix it anyway