I purchased a replacement timing belt kit from rock auto i was changing the belt and the rear cam moved clock wise and i rotated it back to the timing mark clock wise made sure every was lined back up put the new belt on and rotated the engine from the crank a few time and everything lined but when i went to then the car on i have multiply misfire on all cylinders i have read on different forms the same problems but still not luck if any one can help thank you !!!

 

I also have replaced all spark plugs with NGK

 

I'm pretty sure you meant to say counter-clockwise didn't you?

Did you follow the service manual recommendations for threading the belt?

You definitely have something off. You're going to have to go back and check everything. You're probably off one tooth on one or more sprockets if the engine runs but is misfiring.

 

Update I checked my timing belt marks and they all line up turned the motor manually a few times and checked again and they line up I also unplugged the coil to see if it would change and nothing happened to the rear head none of them changed. So Iam not sure what it can be if any one can help or has any ideas thank you

 

If you rotated the rear cam "clockwise" to get it to line back up, then you are off a full turn causing your misfires as NFN suggested. You should have adjusted it a tooth counter clockwise to get it back in time, not all the way back around clockwise. When you say the marks line up, do the numbers for the cylinders match too when you look through the view hole?

I only know so much about the tooth jump, because mine did it when I changed mine.

 

After thinking further, your numbers will line up. But you are indeed a turn out of time. Can he take it back counter clockwise a full turn NFN? Or does he need to go around another 5 times?

 

How can he be a "full turn out"? That would mean that he's in again. Plus I doubt you'd be able to rotate it a full turn anyway.

IIRC, that rear cam could slip from its equilibrium position clockwise or counterclockwise equally well. It took some effort and force to make it stay aligned w/o slipping left or right.

 

Change your spark plugs back to the original old ones.

The car starts up right?

If he was off by 180deg it wouldn't even start.

 

Is the car running rough, or is it just throwing codes?

Could be a crankshaft position sensor that he didn't put it back correctly, so the computer doesn't know when to expect detonation.

 

do a valve adjustment. i ono

 

update i have changed the spark plugs back to the old ones which were NGK iridium and also changed out the coils and the fuel injectors and the car is still runs rough when i start it and has codes misfire on cyl 1 to cyl 6 and multi misfires and as far as the timing marks they line up with the markings on the head and the markings on the cams i have turned it manually at least 10 times and all 10 times they all line up not sure whats left that i can do

 

I really don't want to even think this is your issue but I just can't help myself. Is there any chance you rotated the motor with the belt off in such a way that you may have damaged the valves. If you are sure everything is lined up and it's still running rough that could be an explanation. I hope not but just had to ask.

 

You still haven't answer the question of whether you turned the rear cam clockwise or whether you used the service manual procedure for threading the belt.

I doubt you rotated clockwise, because AFAIK that would be impossible. Did you get crap on the CKP sensor?

 

I turned the rear cam clockwise and yes i did use the service manual procedure
if the valves are bent i would need to take the heads off and take them to get a valve job ?

 

Holy crap, I didn't think that would be possible. Pretty sure that is your problem, but not sure why you have misfires on 4-6 also, instead of just 1-3. I'm actually not sure what a full clockwise rotation does to timing.

You might get lucky by rotating it back counter clockwise, dunno.

Wish you had read through the Azine DIY. Then you would have known not to rotate it a full turn clockwise.

One more thought: did you remove the intake manifold. If so, are you sure you reconnected all of the sensors/lines?

 

yea i removed the intake and checked everything there is noting left un plugged everything is connected

 

i dont think he could have rotated the camshaft 360 i tired once and the valve hit before u go over. did u not plug in a sensor? valve adjustment might help. too tight and it throw miss fire also

 

would it be better to get a valve job done on the heads or the valve adjustment at this point

 

aznboi is right, he wouldn't of been able to turn the cam a full 360 degrees, the valves would've hit the pistons before he got even close

I wouldn't start doing all kinds of other things before verifying 100% that the crank is on it's mark and cams are on their marks, adjusting your valves probably isn't going to help much at all, especially if it was running fine before you did the work and didn't touch the valves

OP did you check the mark on your crank? It might've been off prior to removing your old belt and then even if you lined up the cam pulleys right to the marks on the heads timing on both cams would've been off if the crank was off of it's mark when they were set

You have to remove the crank pulley and timing belt covers to even see the crank pulley marking which is on the block

Also I'd recommend using the markings on the block and edge of the cam pulley vice the ones that you see through the plastic covers.. in my experience it can be dead-on from the pulley to the block and then still off a slight bit on the rear cover when you put it back on after seating the belt.. I always went off the markings on the block instead

 

okay yes i did check the mark on the crank and cams and everything lines up does any one know how many turns of the crank makes a full rotation ? everything was working fine before i changed the timing belt

 

where were the marks at that you used to line up to the mark on the block for the crank?

 

I lined up the markings on the block and head to the marks on the crank and cams

 

which marks for the crank though? which pulley did you use? the crank pulley or the timing belt pulley that resides behind the crank pulley?

It's important, there are many marks on the crank pulley, one is used to get it lined up prior to removal that is on the crank pulley, then there are several others on the crank pulley that are for using a timing light

The actual marks to use are on the timing belt drive pulley which resides behind the crank pulley and can only be seen by removing the crank pulley and timing belt covers, the other mark is located on the block, actually the oil pump, directly above the timing belt drive pulley

The one on the plastic cover is useless for the most part, other than to get it lined up prior to removal..

 

I used the timing belt pulley that's behind the black plastic i made sure everything was lined up all the markings

 

OP, how in the hell did you rotate the rear pulley almost a full turn clockwise? This makes no sense unless you put two fat boys on the end of a breaker bar or used an impact wrench....

 

not meaning to hi jack ur thread but i have similar problems, i had my local Acura dealer do my timing belt and water pump etc. and shortly after i get misfires on all cylinders every once in awhile, not everyday but couple times a week,

I've read that valve adjustment solves it, any truth in that?

 

OP, I'd pull the valves and spin them in a drill to see if you possibly have a bent valve. one way to check which valves could be bent is a leak down test.