AJandTone

I've searched everywhere but can't find any similar posts to the problem I'm having.
I Finally buy a car, that if maintained properly, should live to see 200k.
But through all my searching all I read is 2008 AT transmissions are bound for failure after 100k..... well here I am, just passed my extended warranty at 103k...

Anyways... heres the issue.
After braking and coming to a complete stop, my cars feels like its on the verge of stalling, while the power loss occurs I am feeling a slight vibration or shudder in the steering wheel while idling. I never feel the transmission slip or anything but I'm starting to think its a torque convertor hanging up or forgetting to engage...
I dont think its:

• spark plugs
• braking system
• fuel system
• bad gas

But welcome any suggestions..
PLEASE HAAAALLLLP

Scottwax

Vacuum leak, problem in the EGR system and spark issues (coils or plugs) can all cause low speed shuddering, idle issues and vibration.

AJandTone

Thanks for you input.
I just sprayed starting fluid all around the intake and didn't hear any change in the idle.
Although keep in mind, my car doesn't idle rough in park, only in drive and after I brake.

Scottwax

My first Honda Accord would do that, turned out to be carbon clogged EGR passages in the manifold.

AJandTone

I think it's the break booster. A vacum leak or something

csmeance

do the RPMS drop a lot and vary a bit with the A/C cycling on and off? If yes, your car battery might be dying and the ECU needs to relearn the idle. Very easy to perform. You'll notice things like memory seats won't work all the time

AJandTone

I have a few things hardwired to my rearview mirror, and sometimes I notice my dash came will take a few minutes to turn on.
The reason why I know this Is because typically it turns on instantly and says a Start Message.
I just had the battery replace after the notorious HFL drain.
And I havent noticed and problems with my memory seats.

Have either of you had any problems with the brake booster line?

AJandTone

Figured out what it is...
EGR Valve was clogging, eventually got stuck open and the idle became unbearable and threw a code.
FINALLY!