Please help!!!! Car wont start without "pushing" then starting
#1
Please help!!!! Car wont start without "pushing" then starting
Long story short. Drove my car to the gas station, turned off the car. Bought my drink. Went back into my car and started it like normal. Wrong, it didn't even start up. I bought a new battery last month because it drained. So I was wondering if it was the battery or not. Called my sister to come and "jump" my car. We connected the cars together (she has a 05 civic) and tried to charge my battery and then jump it. Still doesn't work. So im wondering if it was the battery dead again, but in a month?!
Took out my battery and took it to Orileys. The guy tested it and said it did drain a little from a new one, but should have enough to start the car properly. I asked him if he could swap out the battery for me anyways to check if that was the problem. He said no he couldn't warranty the battery because it was showing still good on the tester. I explained to him my situation and he told me he could charge the battery to be around "new" again and I could try that. He said it would take about 25 minutes to charge, so I waited.
After the battery was charged up I took it back to my car and installed it again. There was some of that red gel thing they sell for preventing corrosion. Oriley guy said that I had too much and to wipe it off and try starting it. I wiped it down and tightened everything up again and start it. Doesnt start still. I had my sister jump me again, hooked it up had her rev a little for a couple min and tried to start my car. Doesnt start, kept trying... Then it started up, but was a weak start.
Drove it straight to Orileys and kept it on, asked the guy to check the alternator. He came out with the machine and hooked it up to the battery, he said my alternator was fine.
So took out the battery and we went in the store to exchange the battery. We thought it was the battery. He tested the new battery before I installed it and it was super strong. So I thought for sure would start. Wrong.. Doesn't start again. Now im confused... Asked him what he thought it was..He went to grab a tool to hit the starter while i try and start it. As he hit it im trying to start it. Even trying to hold it in "start" position. That didn't work.
So a tow truck driver/mechanic guy came over to take a look since he was in the same parking lot, he tried to do the "hit the starter" trick again still didnt work. He asked me to put it in neutral, but my car wouldn't go into neutral. Then he walked to the back of my car and started pushing it. (My car still in Park) He pushes and asked me to start it up. I turned the keys to start it... Never worked....Tried again... WORKED! I was then freaking out wondering what the heck is going on. He had me move into a different parking stall and I turned my car off. Tried to turn it on again, didn't start... He started pushing my car forward a little and letting it bounce back and I started it up, It worked... Now my car is on... And im wondering what the heck is going on. I asked him if he knew of a fix for this... He said a new starter wouldn't work, or a new alternator. He said (I forget the exact words he said) but something about the starter not hitting properly. Because the starter makes a "tack" noise when I start it up. He said the starter shouldn't be making that noise. So thats why the car starts when someone nudges it forward and backward. Its not going into the solenoid (Dont quote me on this he could have said it different) but something along that line..
He also brought up that my car is slammed so that it shakes the engine and stuff around more which is probably not good for it. I told him that I only changed one of the motor mounts the side one. And the back two are probably broke by now (135,xxx miles) He said to try fix that for sure cause that might be why its getting stuck and not starting because it might be making the axle going off, throwing off alignment.
I get a engine light for misfire in cylinder 1, 5, 2 and random p0300 p0301 p0301,302,305
Haven't gotten around to changing out the coil packs, but I heard thats a place to start to trouble shoot this issue. Some of my other friends said thats probably whats not starting it is the misfire issue, and the lack of compression. Also the fuel and air is too lean. I changed my spark plugs at 118,xxx miles. Did the full 105k maintenance all OEM. Do my oil change 3k miles. 3x3 trans flush the works....Etc..
If anyone has had this problem please help me out. Or if anyone knows whats going on with my car that would be great! The tow truck driver told me to sell the car before more problems come. And also advised me about the weak trans. I already knew about the weak trans especially on my 04 year. But I dont think im ready to sell the car yet. Hopefully someone has a fix for this.
Took out my battery and took it to Orileys. The guy tested it and said it did drain a little from a new one, but should have enough to start the car properly. I asked him if he could swap out the battery for me anyways to check if that was the problem. He said no he couldn't warranty the battery because it was showing still good on the tester. I explained to him my situation and he told me he could charge the battery to be around "new" again and I could try that. He said it would take about 25 minutes to charge, so I waited.
After the battery was charged up I took it back to my car and installed it again. There was some of that red gel thing they sell for preventing corrosion. Oriley guy said that I had too much and to wipe it off and try starting it. I wiped it down and tightened everything up again and start it. Doesnt start still. I had my sister jump me again, hooked it up had her rev a little for a couple min and tried to start my car. Doesnt start, kept trying... Then it started up, but was a weak start.
Drove it straight to Orileys and kept it on, asked the guy to check the alternator. He came out with the machine and hooked it up to the battery, he said my alternator was fine.
So took out the battery and we went in the store to exchange the battery. We thought it was the battery. He tested the new battery before I installed it and it was super strong. So I thought for sure would start. Wrong.. Doesn't start again. Now im confused... Asked him what he thought it was..He went to grab a tool to hit the starter while i try and start it. As he hit it im trying to start it. Even trying to hold it in "start" position. That didn't work.
So a tow truck driver/mechanic guy came over to take a look since he was in the same parking lot, he tried to do the "hit the starter" trick again still didnt work. He asked me to put it in neutral, but my car wouldn't go into neutral. Then he walked to the back of my car and started pushing it. (My car still in Park) He pushes and asked me to start it up. I turned the keys to start it... Never worked....Tried again... WORKED! I was then freaking out wondering what the heck is going on. He had me move into a different parking stall and I turned my car off. Tried to turn it on again, didn't start... He started pushing my car forward a little and letting it bounce back and I started it up, It worked... Now my car is on... And im wondering what the heck is going on. I asked him if he knew of a fix for this... He said a new starter wouldn't work, or a new alternator. He said (I forget the exact words he said) but something about the starter not hitting properly. Because the starter makes a "tack" noise when I start it up. He said the starter shouldn't be making that noise. So thats why the car starts when someone nudges it forward and backward. Its not going into the solenoid (Dont quote me on this he could have said it different) but something along that line..
He also brought up that my car is slammed so that it shakes the engine and stuff around more which is probably not good for it. I told him that I only changed one of the motor mounts the side one. And the back two are probably broke by now (135,xxx miles) He said to try fix that for sure cause that might be why its getting stuck and not starting because it might be making the axle going off, throwing off alignment.
I get a engine light for misfire in cylinder 1, 5, 2 and random p0300 p0301 p0301,302,305
Haven't gotten around to changing out the coil packs, but I heard thats a place to start to trouble shoot this issue. Some of my other friends said thats probably whats not starting it is the misfire issue, and the lack of compression. Also the fuel and air is too lean. I changed my spark plugs at 118,xxx miles. Did the full 105k maintenance all OEM. Do my oil change 3k miles. 3x3 trans flush the works....Etc..
If anyone has had this problem please help me out. Or if anyone knows whats going on with my car that would be great! The tow truck driver told me to sell the car before more problems come. And also advised me about the weak trans. I already knew about the weak trans especially on my 04 year. But I dont think im ready to sell the car yet. Hopefully someone has a fix for this.
#2
Found this info from another page
"I would check a couple of things. First, if when this problem happens it doesn't even crank, it's possible you could have a problem with the transponder in the key. Either the chip in the key itself is defective (not likely) or you have too much metal crap on your keyring and it is interfering with the chip's ability to be read by the sensor. Make sure you only have your remote FOB and your key on the key chain and nothing else--especially another key with a transponder or something like a Mobil SpeedPass device. These have been known to cause problems with starting. However usually if this is the case you will see the "security key" flash in the instrument panel.
Second, if it doesn't crank it's possible the transmission position switch is malfunctioning. The car will only start if the car is in park or neutral. In simplified terms, there is an electronic switch on the shifting mechanism that reports to the ignition/starter what gear the transmission is in. If it is not in neutral or park then it won't start. It's possible that when you put it in park, this switch is not reading the gearshift selector position accurately, so it may think the car is still in reverse for instance, and it won't let you start it. A good test for this is if the car won't start, with the key in the "on" position, put your foot on the brake and run the gear selector all the way to the bottom and back to park again and then try and start it. If it starts, it very well could be that switch.
Now if it cranks but won't catch, it could be a fuel pressure situation. I know some of the TLs had issues with injector fuel rails. Like Acura_Kid suggested, since we have an electronic fuel pump that needs to pressurize the system each time you start, turn the key on, wait 10 seconds, and then crank it. This gives the system time to adequately pressurize. If doing this seems to make it better, then you could have a fuel pump/fuel line/fuel rail problem."
I do see the "green key" in the dash area, but why would pushing the car back and forward help me start it? If the key was bad wouldn't it not start at all? Do I just cross that solution out?
"I would check a couple of things. First, if when this problem happens it doesn't even crank, it's possible you could have a problem with the transponder in the key. Either the chip in the key itself is defective (not likely) or you have too much metal crap on your keyring and it is interfering with the chip's ability to be read by the sensor. Make sure you only have your remote FOB and your key on the key chain and nothing else--especially another key with a transponder or something like a Mobil SpeedPass device. These have been known to cause problems with starting. However usually if this is the case you will see the "security key" flash in the instrument panel.
Second, if it doesn't crank it's possible the transmission position switch is malfunctioning. The car will only start if the car is in park or neutral. In simplified terms, there is an electronic switch on the shifting mechanism that reports to the ignition/starter what gear the transmission is in. If it is not in neutral or park then it won't start. It's possible that when you put it in park, this switch is not reading the gearshift selector position accurately, so it may think the car is still in reverse for instance, and it won't let you start it. A good test for this is if the car won't start, with the key in the "on" position, put your foot on the brake and run the gear selector all the way to the bottom and back to park again and then try and start it. If it starts, it very well could be that switch.
Now if it cranks but won't catch, it could be a fuel pressure situation. I know some of the TLs had issues with injector fuel rails. Like Acura_Kid suggested, since we have an electronic fuel pump that needs to pressurize the system each time you start, turn the key on, wait 10 seconds, and then crank it. This gives the system time to adequately pressurize. If doing this seems to make it better, then you could have a fuel pump/fuel line/fuel rail problem."
I do see the "green key" in the dash area, but why would pushing the car back and forward help me start it? If the key was bad wouldn't it not start at all? Do I just cross that solution out?
#6
I tried to turn it on this morning made a loud scraping sound.
Then I turned it off, checked my oil and added a little oil. Idk if that was the problem with the scratching sound, but didn't know what it was.
When I try to start the car it makes a noise like "tack.." Only one sound. And doesn't go tack tack tack tack... Like how my other cars did when my battery was dead.
When it doesn't start I have someone push the back of the car and rock it forward and back and start it then, usually starts up.
Then I turned it off, checked my oil and added a little oil. Idk if that was the problem with the scratching sound, but didn't know what it was.
When I try to start the car it makes a noise like "tack.." Only one sound. And doesn't go tack tack tack tack... Like how my other cars did when my battery was dead.
When it doesn't start I have someone push the back of the car and rock it forward and back and start it then, usually starts up.
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#9
#11
I will try and get it on video so I can post.
I'm not sure if I turned on the car too soon.
I started the car let it run, turned it off and turned it back on I check again. Maybe I didn't wait long enough for the engine to turn off before turning on again? Cause I never heard that sound in my life lol. And I also never turned a car back on that quick I think I was just impatient lol.
But I'll try record the noise when the car doesn't start too.
Doesn't start and makes a click noise, then someone nudges the car from behind and the car starts up.
I'm not sure if I turned on the car too soon.
I started the car let it run, turned it off and turned it back on I check again. Maybe I didn't wait long enough for the engine to turn off before turning on again? Cause I never heard that sound in my life lol. And I also never turned a car back on that quick I think I was just impatient lol.
But I'll try record the noise when the car doesn't start too.
Doesn't start and makes a click noise, then someone nudges the car from behind and the car starts up.
#12
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It certainly sounds like the starter...but if the guy nudges the car and kinda forces it to budge and then it fires, it sounds like maybe it could be that.
OR, #2 in your post #2 sounds plausible too.
OR, #2 in your post #2 sounds plausible too.
The following users liked this post:
teeeejaay (09-30-2013)
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teeeejaay (09-30-2013)
#14
Would this be something safe to go with aftermarket from like Napa or Orileys? Or starter should be OEM
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thoiboi (10-02-2013)
#20
#21
#25
Hope everyone enjoys my new toy I got for the TL.
Thanks for the help Justin.
#26
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rockstar143 (10-02-2013)
#27
#28
Thanks for the help guys, I bought a new starter and that seemed to fix the problem so far!
My oem starter was making noises when I shook it. So sounds like that was the problem.
Moderator you can close this thread. Thanks for the help!
My oem starter was making noises when I shook it. So sounds like that was the problem.
Moderator you can close this thread. Thanks for the help!
#31
when my starter went I went to Honda and picked up a "remanufactured- although it looked extremely brand new" for an accord.
Cost a bit less.
Think it was 250/ including core charge of 50 bucks.
Cost a bit less.
Think it was 250/ including core charge of 50 bucks.
#32
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teeeejaay (10-02-2013)
#34
OK by me if it stays a secret
#35
#36
#38
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