Hey everyone, I have a 05 TL project car that I'm fairly confident has blown rings. I checked the PCV valve, and the oil consumption is steady during normal operation, so it's likely not valve stems. Also I've got textbook blue smoke and lower compression.

I'm wondering if it's possible to replace the rings (and pistons if necessary) on this V6 without pulling the engine? It seems like the front pistons could pop right up, but the back ones might be tight?

Before we go into "do it right, pull the engine" etc, know that I don't have a lift or garage. So I'm hoping to be in and out of the danger zone (engine open to contaminants) as much as possible.

Also does anyone have a cost estimate for parts? Of course I will replace gaskets and probably head bolts.

Thanks for any input.

 

I dont think it has anything to do with "Do it right, pull the engine"

more of a matter of ease.
you're going to be fighting big time when it would just be easier to pull the engine.
Dont need a lift, nor a garage... one could pull the engine with an engine hoist in the back yard.

and if you tape up and cover the engine ports and holes, it wont be in the "danger zone"

as for a part list, you can hit up www.acuraoemparts.com and check out how much it would cost.

 

Why not simply buying a used J32A3 or better still, a J35A6 and dropping it in? Might be cheaper and almost certainly less time consuming than pulling your engine apart.

 

I would agree.
he's going to be fighting BIG time....when it would just be easier and cheaper to drop in a used engine

 

It's definitely an option. Looks like cost would be a bit higher (engine seems to be in $900-$1300 range, while rings and rebuild kit is $200-$500).

The engine swap is likely the cleaner solution, and probably easier. Then again, sometimes a man likes to take shit apart and rebuild for that sense of satisfaction. I successfully rebuilt a boxer engine in situ a few years back, 3 hour job, no muss no fuss. Yes there were clearance issues, but nothing too gnarly.

If I go the J35A route, do I need to swap the trans also?

 

Thanks for advice. That site seems a bit pricey, tho I understand there is some shady bootleg gear for sale on sites like Ebay. I think if I'm pulling the engine I will just replace it. Sounds counter intuitive, but with a swap half of the work is pulling it.

 

For your 2005, the J35A6 is literally a drop-in/plug-compatible engine in every aspect.

 

look at the MDX piston replacement videos on youtube, can be done in the car.

 

you plan on doing it yourself?

 

fuckyeah. If I fail it goes on Craigslist

 

NOICE. It always helps to see someone do it. Link:

 

I must say that is verrry tempting... I like the extra hp but don't care about the S type trim. Then again how many of those engines weren't driven hard and fast?

 

I found some piston and ring sets on eBay for $140. Does anyone know if they're garbage?

 

no clue, some are grade A Chinesium, some are Grade B Thai-tanium (lol) and some are OEM used ones...

I'd buy some OEM replacements either from an engine getting torn down or ebay/facebook. Get a boroscope and check your cyl walls before starting. Any scoring will mean either a new/used engine or engine needs to come out to be bored/honed to fix issue.

 

If you have cyl wall damage J35A6 is a good bet if you can find it at a decent price

 

+1 Thai-tanium LOL gotta watch for it... I got pistons and rings for $110 but can return if it's shite.

Have a borescope, I will post a video if I can get a clean shot.

 

I'm looking at more engines now that the compression test isn't looking good...

Does anyone use JDM Japanese import engines in Cali? Seems like it could be a nightmare, but they are some very low mileage engines for cheap.

 

cheaper than a local engine sourced from a junkyard?

 

The problem with JDM engines is they do not come with the final series number (i.e. J35A vs. J35A6); it is that number which determines whether the engine will be plug compatible with your car or not. If you really want to explore the JDM avenue, make sure you explicitly ask for a J35A engine which will bolt into one of the lower trim levels of a 2005-2006 Honda Odyssey (i.e. NOT the EX-L or the Touring models); even then buying such an engine could be risky.

 

with bent valves compression won't be good....

 

Funny you should mention bent valves... So far I got a scope down into cylinders 4+5 and it does not look good. Sorry I haven't had time to edit the vid, so there are some blurry sections.

VID: https://file.io/ohw7mI7NRDW7

Compression thus far looks like this (I hope 180psi is spec?)
Cylinder 4: 90psi dry 110psi wet
Cylinder 5: 180 psi dry
Cylinder 6: 180psi dry

I'm leaning more and more toward a nice clean J35A8. Don't think I will mess with the JDMs as it sounds potentially dicey.

 

Yard engines are cheap af but really hard to find. The minute ANY TL pops up, somebody yanks that block! And I think dismantlers are hip, they're buying the clean 3G TLs at auctions.

BTW sorry guys I fat-fingered the OP, this car is 2008, not 05. That makes it more worth upgrading IMHO. Trans feels really good and fluid is nice and clean.

 

Whoa, the 2008 is a different engine, yes, both the 2004-2006 use an engine labeled J32A3, as does the 2007-2008 models, however, the engine to transmission mounts are different and as such, the engines are not interchangeable. For your 2008, there is only one J32 which will work, the aforementioned J32A3 from 2007 and 2008 TLs, however, there are a few J35s which should work, J35A6 from lower trim level Odysseys from 2007 through 2010, the J35A8 from the TL Type-S and the 2005-2008 Acura RL, and if I am not mistaken, the J35A5 from 2003-2005 Acura MDX.

 

Man, thanks, you know your stuff! I couldn't find a source anywhere that listed the changes from 06 to 07 (might it have something to do with the addition of a trans cooler?). Luckily the engine resellers know roughly what the situation is and usually say 07/08 only. I'm looking at J35A8s as that would be my first choice. But an 07/08 for the right price will be hard to turn down.

Tomorrow I'm going to check compression on the back cylinders and test/swap the coils just for hoots. Also maybe the experts here can weigh in just how bad losing 50% compression in 1/6 cylinders. Given that it's cyl #4 (easiest access) maybe I could even bore and replace one piston with an oversize... pretty hacky but hey I like a practical fix.

 

My opinion regarding your engine is, it's done, don't spend another minute or dime trying to revive it. Keep in mind, J35A8 is the most desired of the J35As, and as such, typically command the highest price.

 

I appreciate all the help here. I am leaning harder toward the A8 swap because it's a clean solution, and also it's a reward for my work.

The final straw was when the previous owner said she bought the vehicle with blown rings - when I look at the transfer records it appears she drove it 15k more miles. And I notice a sticky spot on the windshield that looks like it held an UBER DECAL!

I'm thinking maybe I can rebuild my A3 after the swap and get a few bucks back. Reboring and adding 1mm oversize pistons should be the proper fix. I would like to have this experience under my belt. Then again I probably won't get more than $500 for the long block.

 

I finished the compression test (I suspect my compression gauge is reading high as spec says minimum 135psi):

Cylinder 1: 150psi dry
Cylinder 2: 180 psi dry
Cylinder 3: 180psi dry
Cylinder 4: 90psi dry 110psi wet
Cylinder 5: 180 psi dry
Cylinder 6: 180psi dry

So cylinder 4 is the only bad one, but it has 50% compression loss. Not sure new pistons and rings can remedy that?
VID: https://file.io/ohw7mI7NRDW7

I see plenty of carbon buildup and maybe a bit of scoring on the cylinder walls.

 

I ordered an engine w 70k from
https://jdm-engines.com

will provide updates if people are interested. A HUGE thanks to everyone here at the forum!!

BTW the dismantler said the problem with JDM engines is they often don't have EGR. Also he said he doesn't even rebuild J32s or J35s because the master rebuild kit costs him $600, and those engines only fetch $800-1500. So my engine is effectively JUNK.

 

I take it you bought a J32A and not a J35A; yes, no?

 

A couple of techs swore to me that J35A was not a drop in replacement, they said it will require a J35 ECU and possibly more tuning. Also most of the J35A8 I found looked pretty beat down with high miles. The J32A3 I ordered has <70k which is quite low. Finally, cost on the J32A3 was really good, $900 shipped.

 

Yeah, and lots of techs say the H5 transmission from a 2006-2007 Honda Accord won't drop into a 2004-2006 TL either.

 

I'm a little prone to fear with this stuff because I've made a few simple mistakes over the years that cost me bigtime. This car will likely be a daily driver, so it's most important for it to be reliable. But if I get another 04-06 for cheap, I will definitely go for a J35, and maybe even drop in an H5 trans!

 

All automatic equipped 3G TLs came one one variation or another of the Honda 5-Speed Automatic (H5); for the 2004-2006 models, the best replacement automatic is the BAYA coded transmission from the 2006-2007 Honda V6 Accord models (but not the hybrids). As has been previously noted, the 2007 and 2008 TLs with automatic transmission had a different bellhousing pattern versus the earlier models.