2006 TL no crank, no click, no start

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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 07:12 PM
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2006 TL no crank, no click, no start

So, I have a 2006 Acura TL that i just swapped out the transmission on. Ive done transmission and engine swaps a billion times and this is the first time it has happened to me. After making sure everything is plugged and good to go i attempted to turn the car and NOTHING, no click, no crank, no nothing. I proceeded to backtrack to see if anything was missing and NOTHING. So, i changed the STARTER, checked the relay, changed out the neutral saftey switch, changed ignition switch and still NOTHING. One thing i did notice was that the shifter will not shift upon applying brake while its in park but if i use the shift release lock it releases. The qeird thing is that it will no return to PARK and stop at NEUTRAL and i cant figure it out. Can someone let me know if they too have had this issue and how they resolved it.

P.S. i even tried to force start the starter and NOTHING. Tried to run a diagnostics and it says cant be read due to plug so I feel like km TOASTED lmao. Help please lol forgot to mention new battery
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Jayproductivo
So, I have a 2006 Acura TL that i just swapped out the transmission on. Ive done transmission and engine swaps a billion times and this is the first time it has happened to me. After making sure everything is plugged and good to go i attempted to turn the car and NOTHING, no click, no crank, no nothing. I proceeded to backtrack to see if anything was missing and NOTHING. So, i changed the STARTER, checked the relay, changed out the neutral saftey switch, changed ignition switch and still NOTHING. One thing i did notice was that the shifter will not shift upon applying brake while its in park but if i use the shift release lock it releases. The qeird thing is that it will no return to PARK and stop at NEUTRAL and i cant figure it out. Can someone let me know if they too have had this issue and how they resolved it.

P.S. i even tried to force start the starter and NOTHING. Tried to run a diagnostics and it says cant be read due to plug so I feel like km TOASTED lmao. Help please lol forgot to mention new battery
Can you turn the engine by hand? maybe your flywheel is jammed with something that fell in during the install. Also sounds like you have some shift interlock issues, probably not your root cause however. Check your engine ground strap as that can cause a no-start.
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 11:14 AM
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Got one part

Originally Posted by stokesey
Can you turn the engine by hand? maybe your flywheel is jammed with something that fell in during the install. Also sounds like you have some shift interlock issues, probably not your root cause however. Check your engine ground strap as that can cause a no-start.
hey brother thanks for the reply. So, I got the car to start and the issue was that the car was stuck in gear somehow and I didn’t figure it out till I pulled the shift linkage cable all the way forward putting it in park. So, I got it out of gear, now I’m stuck with trying to figure out the shifter situation being locked. I also think the shift linkage cable needs adjustment because when I change gears with the shift by using the shift lock release it changes but when I put the gears back towards park it doesn’t change at all. I don’t know the reason I my behind this but I’m trying to research as much as I can with the help of some that may have had this issue. I thought I needed a new shifter being that it’s locked
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 11:45 AM
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^
It would be interesting to hear what @peter6 has to say about your issue.
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 11:55 AM
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Would be great to know

Originally Posted by zeta
^
It would be interesting to hear what @peter6 has to say about your issue.
move been stuck on this car for about 2 weeks lol and almost went nuts when the car cranked lol now I’m like welp that’s one problem solved lol on to the next with this shifter and the linkage
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 12:24 PM
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^
Check out this guys thread, you may find similarities?

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...rs-nss-990204/
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 12:46 PM
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Thanks

Originally Posted by zeta
^
Check out this guys thread, you may find similarities?

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...rs-nss-990204/
ive seen this thread before I posted lol but I swear I feel it’s the shift linkage the only thing is that in the amount of times I’ve done engine and trans swaps I’ve never had this happen so adjustment I have no clue on a 06😂. It’s just weird that the shifter is locked from P to N but anything after N it’s good to go but once you hit N to go back to park it doesn’t let you shift any further passed N 💀
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 01:56 PM
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are you sure the trans is good?

Also check the TRS procedure




Last edited by stokesey; Oct 17, 2020 at 02:10 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 02:11 PM
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Trans

Originally Posted by stokesey
are you sure the trans is good?
So, at first I was like this trans is trash but then after I figured out it was stuck in gear and I adjusted the shift linkage to park. I actually took the car for a drive without the actually shifter in it to see if it drives reverses and so forth and it did. So, as far as trans operating it’s shifting right no slips and no noise so I’m assuming it’s good. What I’m trying to figure out is why this damn shifter is LOCKED at PARK and when pressing the shift release button it releases but when going back to park it stops at N.
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 02:16 PM
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Diagram

Originally Posted by stokesey
are you sure the trans is good?

Also check the TRS procedure


thanks for the diagram, this must be for an earlier model as the range switch is on the lower side of the transmission and doesn’t have any of this. Attached is a picture of it. As you can see the safety switch is set to park and when shifter switched through gears it’s fine but when it’s going back to park gears don’t switch at all.

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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 05:43 PM
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Sorry J that's from my 07-08 manual so it's probably wrong. On that note, what year was the donor vehicle? I hear that these TL transes are not always direct swap, I believe 04-06, and 07-08 are different. Also is there any way to bypass the shift selector and try to shift thru the hole in the floor?
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 06:11 PM
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Trans

Originally Posted by stokesey
Sorry J that's from my 07-08 manual so it's probably wrong. On that note, what year was the donor vehicle? I hear that these TL transes are not always direct swap, I believe 04-06, and 07-08 are different. Also is there any way to bypass the shift selector and try to shift thru the hole in the floor?
its all good stokes umm the donor vehicle was same year make and model. So that’s what I was thinking trying to bypass it and do it through the whole in the floor cause that’s how I tested the trans after putting it in by shifting the cable from the whole in the floor. The only thing is that when I when you shift it back towards park the gears weren’t switching. They switch going into R,N,D but won’t shift back towards P.
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Jayproductivo
its all good stokes umm the donor vehicle was same year make and model. So that’s what I was thinking trying to bypass it and do it through the whole in the floor cause that’s how I tested the trans after putting it in by shifting the cable from the whole in the floor. The only thing is that when I when you shift it back towards park the gears weren’t switching. They switch going into R,N,D but won’t shift back towards P.
Strange, usually you have the opposite problem where you're stuck in park. How do you shift back to park after you drive it?

I believe there is an interlock mechanism that detects if the brake pedal is depressed, usually you can't shift out of park without that switch being closed. That said, often when you can't shift into park, the trans thinks your key is still in, meaning the engine could've stalled, etc. So maybe look at that interlock system and the brake switch. Maybe even the ignition switch. I haven't messed with interlock on my TL but on my other Hondas I've had occasional problems. Remember also that there is a manual override for the interlock if you pop that little plastic tab out of the shift selector console.
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Old Oct 17, 2020 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by stokesey
Strange, usually you have the opposite problem where you're stuck in park. How do you shift back to park after you drive it?

I believe there is an interlock mechanism that detects if the brake pedal is depressed, usually you can't shift out of park without that switch being closed. That said, often when you can't shift into park, the trans thinks your key is still in, meaning the engine could've stalled, etc. So maybe look at that interlock system and the brake switch. Maybe even the ignition switch. I haven't messed with interlock on my TL but on my other Hondas I've had occasional problems. Remember also that there is a manual override for the interlock if you pop that little plastic tab out of the shift selector console.
i have been shifting the shift by pressing the little plastic release button on the side of the console. I replaced the ignition switch because the key wasn’t releasing itself but I finally realized that it wasn’t releasing was because the car was still in gear. Once figured out the ignition switch was replaced back to original switch it had and it’s working fine. Maybe I’ll look at the brake pedal switch like you said maybe that’s a point to start at. The most craziest thing is I’ve done this a billion times and I have never ever had this happen. I’ll look at your points to see where it leads.
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Old Oct 18, 2020 | 04:27 AM
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That sounds like the classic symptoms of interlock issues. Another way to diagnose is listen and feel for a CLICK when you depress the brake pedal (with the engine running and key in on position). It can be subtle in newer cars, but usually you can make it out or feel it.

I've even seen the problem continue until you press the brake pedal all the way to the floor and release it with engine off and key out. In this case I think the brake light switch needs a reset or has a spring stuck inside it.

Last edited by stokesey; Oct 18, 2020 at 04:30 AM.
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Old Oct 18, 2020 | 01:09 PM
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One problem resolved

Originally Posted by stokesey
That sounds like the classic symptoms of interlock issues. Another way to diagnose is listen and feel for a CLICK when you depress the brake pedal (with the engine running and key in on position). It can be subtle in newer cars, but usually you can make it out or feel it.

I've even seen the problem continue until you press the brake pedal all the way to the floor and release it with engine off and key out. In this case I think the brake light switch needs a reset or has a spring stuck inside it.
So, I want to thank you for that brake switch situation. The shifter is now shifting the only thing is that when it shift it doesn’t shift correctly. Attached is the video so you can see what I’m talking about










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Old Oct 18, 2020 | 02:03 PM
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https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p.../#post16636365
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Old Oct 18, 2020 | 02:10 PM
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thanks I’ve done this adjustment but for some reason I have way too much slack left on the cable. I went underneath where the shift linkage attaches to the transmission and I’m trying to see if there is a way to adjust it there and not up by the shifter. I did read there is a way to thread a nut but I can’t seem to find it.
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Jayproductivo
So, I want to thank you for that brake switch situation. The shifter is now shifting the only thing is that when it shift it doesn’t shift correctly. Attached is the video so you can see what I’m talking about https://youtu.be/soGc0G7hmDM
You're almost there! My guess is the TRS needs adjustment. I haven't done it myself so I can only say check the shop manual for that exact year, they're free to download somewhere on the forum. Too much slack makes sense, as your trans is a few gears behind your shift selector.

Is it possible you're missing parts from that TRS? From photos it looks like there is a spindle that sits on top, and maybe a cover too?

Last edited by stokesey; Oct 19, 2020 at 04:13 AM.
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by stokesey
You're almost there! My guess is the TRS needs adjustment. I haven't done it myself so I can only say check the shop manual for that exact year, they're free to download somewhere on the forum. Too much slack makes sense, as your trans is a few gears behind your shift selector.

Is it possible you're missing parts from that TRS? From photos it looks like there is a spindle that sits on top, and maybe a cover too?
When I initial began with the problem I took everything apart to try and find the problem. There isn’t anything missing that I know of. I’ve swapped these trans a million times on Honda’s and even tho these trans are identical I have checked a million times to make sure nothing is missing. I think that due to the slack it’s what’s causing that although, yesterday I went under the car to put the car in park and noticed that the bushings on the cables were slipping off. Can this be the cause to the slack?
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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 05:43 PM
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I just can’t win!!!! Lol🤦🏽‍♂️🤦🏽‍♂️

Originally Posted by stokesey
You're almost there! My guess is the TRS needs adjustment. I haven't done it myself so I can only say check the shop manual for that exact year, they're free to download somewhere on the forum. Too much slack makes sense, as your trans is a few gears behind your shift selector.

Is it possible you're missing parts from that TRS? From photos it looks like there is a spindle that sits on top, and maybe a cover too?
So, it seems like all odds are against me at this point lmao. I finally got the adjustment to the cable done by pulling it off completely and turning a nut by the hole in the floor. I noticed that all lights on the dash were lighting up but the L, so I unplugged the Neutral Safety Switch pulled it off to make sure it wasn’t broken and put it back on. After putting it back on and connecting the connector one of the relays began buzzing so I went bought another to replace and even though it may not buzz the car is not cranking 💀💀💀 KILL ME NOW lmao. The car was turning on no problem before doing so and the lights were all lighting up with no issues now they are all off. Watch video to show what I’m talking about now
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Old Oct 21, 2020 | 06:39 PM
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Fixed!!!

So, I want to thank all of you who gave inputs on this problem I was able to diagnose it all at the same time using ALLDATA, here is the outcome.

after I Initially put in the transmission and I noticed that the car will not crank at all. Everything pointed back to what I thought was the starter or bad battery. I soon came to realize that after getting new battery and starter the car would still not crack and AllData then pointed me to the Transmission Range switch. And with the advice of someone on here STOKE I believe I came to find out that the car was in shift which is why it would turn on. I pulled the Shift Linkage Cable forward and once it landed it Park the car cranked. The car wouldn’t shift after the fact and I switched out the brake pedal switch which allowed the shifter to change gears but the gears on dash would not match to what gears the shifter was shifting to. So I took the shift cable out and adjusted it with a nut and put it back in and the shifter aligned. After doing that I got a buzzing sound from one of the Relays and I went and changed out relay but then returned the relay after diagnosing that it was a faulty ground wire on the power steering pump. Replaced that and the car is good to go. Thank you all for everything
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Old Oct 22, 2020 | 10:57 PM
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real happy to hear that brother! I'm doin an engine swap this week, too so I may need your help.
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Old Oct 23, 2020 | 12:03 AM
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Im here brother

Originally Posted by stokesey
real happy to hear that brother! I'm doin an engine swap this week, too so I may need your help.
anything you need brother I’m here, I’m actually doing another TL trans swap this week too and accord engine this week so I’m in it for a long week
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