Oil drain bolt
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#3
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (3)
The aluminum sealing washers expand a good bit once they're on and the car is driven and they heat up.
When I had the stock sealing washers on the car I always had to use a breaker bar to loosen the drain bolt. Just be sure not to tighten it with the breaker bar, the threads in the pan are aluminum and you don't want to damage them.
When I had the stock sealing washers on the car I always had to use a breaker bar to loosen the drain bolt. Just be sure not to tighten it with the breaker bar, the threads in the pan are aluminum and you don't want to damage them.
#5
In fact, a sharp bump with the heel of my hand against the wrench end is usually enough - actually, the heel of my left hand against the fist of my right hand on the wrench - no need to bruise my hand.
Its not the torque of the bolt holding it - the aluminum washer actually galls (cold welds) to the aluminum oil pan and the drain bolt. That is why the bolt requires such high torque to remove. But a bump, or tap against the wrench, is usually enough to break the washer/ bolt loose.
As for the comment in the post above, in my opinion it will actually be easier to remove the bolt with a hot engine versus a cold one. And I prefer to drain the oil hot.
And the galling of the aluminum washer, is why I oil the washer (both sides) and use a lower torque when I reinstall the bolt - and use safety wire to prevent it from loosening - but I suppose most would consider that too much work. Just *habit* from my early days of racing bikes and required safety wiring.
You could also use a copper washer, which will hold just as well as the aluminum one at the proper required torque, but will not gall and be much easier to remove next time. Newer GM cars also use a synthetic washer, which also holds well and of course will not gall. I have purchased them from Pep Boys for use on my Chevy truck. And used one the last couple of times on my Acura RDX.
Last edited by dcmodels; 12-23-2013 at 02:05 AM.
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Houston (12-23-2013)
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