I went to get my emissions done this morning and was pleasantly surprised when it was rejected... The OBD system was unresponsive and was not able to complete the test.

I have talked to my buddy who is a mechanic and he asked if my cig lighters were working, and YES they are. (both of them) I don't know what the problem is but I am gonna run over to autozone to see if their scan tool works and if it doesnt I have a real issue on my hands. I have a little over a month to pass the test but this is just going to annoy me til it gets fixed or starts working again.

If you have any input that can guide me in the direction to fix this issue, please let me know!!!

Also are the cig lighter fuses on the same line as the OBD???


I have not CEL's, but I do have an airbag light from someone backing into the front. Don't know if that has anything to do with it. (I doubt it though, but I may be wrong)

Thanks in advance!

 

Went to autozone, no response from OBD. The plug itself is a little loose so they guy who assisted me with the scan tool told me to look into the plug itself. maybe it has a faulty connection.

Does anyone have a part number for the receptor for the OBD system? (I don't have manuals either - OOPS) I can't seem to find one anywhere on the internet, even parts places.

Next I will be disassembling the lower dash to take a closer look at it. Maybe something is loose (fingers crossed), and it just needs to be snugged up.

If all fails, to the dealer I go with a big bottle of lube so it doesn't hurt that much when they bend me over for parts/labor...

 

This happened to me too, my problem was that I disconnected the battery for the stupid tighten gas cap message and went strait to the inspection station and failed due to the obd not ready, so maybe you didn't drive the car long enough for the obd to be ready

 

Pretty sure it's just a loose plug somewhere. If the whole system was messed up I think you would have some dash lights

 

I never unplugged the battery, and have 3k miles on it. I would hope the system is ready haha. I pulled the bottom cover off and looked at the plug and wires. They seem to be all tight and nothing else loose or looks cut... Nothing corroded either, anyone have a wiring schematics for the OBD port? I would like to know what the wires coming into the plug actually go to so I can try to figure this out!

 

anyone have any advice? i have yet to find a possible solution.

 

I haven't had this issue in my TL but I did have this happen to me in my '07 Nissan Altima. The issue for me at the time was a blown fuse that powered that OBDII port. I'm not sure if a fuse is used in our Acuras for the same purpose but it's worth looking into.

Good luck!

 

Check to make sure the backup fuse is good, I e had this issue on my 06 accord but not on my TL. Very similar car though in many ways.

 

back up light fuse or the fuse it may be linked to? i don't know what fuse the obd port is linked to, if you know please let me know so i can check to see if its ok. I looked at the fuses and all seem to be ok, but that is with out physically checking them one by one.

 

No man, back up fuse which is labeled (back-up) 7.5A. Not your backup lights.

 

Thanks for all the ideas of what to check. I took the port out of the mounting bracket and it worked, so i am not sure if there was a kinked wire to the back of the plug or it wasn't allowing the male end to go in far enough. Either way it works now.

I did check to see if the plug itself was getting power and had continuity. everything checked out fine.

Thanks again!

 

Hey, do you remember what fuse was causing the issue on your Altima? I'm having the same issue on my 09' Altima and I can't find any info on it anywhere.

 

I'm bumping an old thread here as I also have an OBDII port that is unresponsive.

For background information, I just took my TL out of storage and have only driven it 50 miles or so. However, my OBDII scanner will not read my TL's ECU. The scanner will connect to my wife's 2007 RDX, my winter beater 2006 Chevy Cobalt, and even a friend of mine's 2017 Subaru. I haven't had a CEL in years and everything seems to be running fine.

I guess tomorrow, I'll start with checking to see if the 7.5A backup fuse is good.

Breezy, what exactly did you dismount? I'm a little confused. And after further inspection, did you find any other reasons as to why it wasn't working properly? Was it indeed a kinked wire of some kind?

 

From what I remember, I just unclipped the plug from the metal mount and tried it that way and it worked. Not exactly sure why it worked then but not when it was clipped in. Wish I could share a fix for you other than try that and see what happens. Inspect the wires in the back of the plug. Were you ever down in that area doing work and maybe bumped it, loosening a wire?

 

That is great information. I actually worked on it a bit more last night since I couldn't sleep:
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g.../#post16575307

I jiggled the wiring harness a few times and was able to connect to my ECU. I didn't fully un-clip the plug from the metal mount, but I did use my hands to compress the scan tool firmly and it worked after a couple attempts. I have done some work down there in the past, but all wires still feel firmly connected. I guess it's good to see that I'm not the only one who's experienced this issue. It does seem a bit troubling though since I want to keep an OBDII reader attached 100% of the time with my Nexus 7 install.

Going forward, does yours work every time now that the plug is un-clipped from the metal mount? Or do you still have to finesse with it each time you connect a scan tool?

 

That was on my 05 that i parted out 4 years ago. My KBP Type-S never game me issues, but I don't have that anymore either... :sadface:

 

Have you checked that you have a good ground and battery voltage at the OBD-II connector? Your BT scanner gets power from the car itself.

 

So I performed a little research, watched a few videos, un-clipped my wiring harness from the metal bracket, and did some testing with my multimeter.

Here are some useful videos:

Here is a current layout of our OBD-II ports:



I checked for continuity between Pin 4 and the vehicle ground, located behind driver side kick panel - There was a solid connection

I checked for continuity between Pin 5 and the vehicle ground, located behind driver side kick panel - There was a solid connection

I checked the voltage reading between Pins 4 & 5 (should be less than 2V) - Mine was around 0.5 mV

I checked the voltage reading between Pin 16 and the vehicle vehicle ground, located behind driver side kick panel (should be 12.2V) – My reading was 12.23V

I checked the voltage reading between Pins 4 & 16 (should be 12.2V) – My reading was 12.26V

I checked the voltage reading between Pins 5 & 16 (should be 12.2v) – My reading was 12.26V

All signs point towards a good OBD-II port. When attempting to connect my WiFi enabled device, I really had to squish the port and device together in order to establish a connection. It still wasn't consistent. When I connect the same device to my wife's 2007 Acura RDX, I don't have to hold it and it almost clips itself firmly into place.

So, in conclusion, it seems as if the device is working and my TL's readings are fine. I think I just have to figure out how securely mount the device to my vehicle's port better. Anyone else have any thoughts?

 

Sorry to bump this old thread, but I have an 07 & 08 TL where I can't get readings from a couple of different scanners. It is not a "not ready" issue. It's a "cannot communicate" one. There was some commentary above about checking the "BACK UP" fuse which is under the dash labeled #7. The part I don't understand about this suggestion is: if that fuse was blown, wouldn't EVERYTHING on that circuit also be dead? I'm not very smart, but thought that's how fuses & circuits worked. I've attached a description of everything that goes through fuse 7. Unlike in some other vehicles, I just don't see a fuse that's dedicated to the OBD port.

I will try pulling it out of its harness to see if I can seat it better and also inspect the pin slots to see if something is spread too much.

 

I popped the OBD2 connector from its metal bracket so I could really mash the connection with the scanner. Still no joy. So again, both my 07 & 08 are exhibiting the exact same behavior: I can't establish a connection with two different scanners. There are various non-Acura vids out there which tell you to check the fuse. But like I said above, there is no dedicated fuse for the OBD2 port of which I'm aware. Some other non-Acura vids tell you to see if any of the terminal connections are spread open, show you how to separate the ODB2 port, pull the wire and "repair" the faulty terminal by pushing it back together and creating enough drag to create good contact. Even with separating the connector from the metal mount, there is virtually no play in the wiring that allows me to pull it out to a point where I can work on it.


The other incredibly annoying thing these two have in common: the clock will not sync and cannot be manually adjusted. Both cars have NAVI. Getting REALLY frustrated because I need to be able to scan these cars in order to maintain them. As always, any suggestions welcome.

 

Wow, I mean, WOW! Here's what's going on with the clocks. Based on the fact that I own an 06, 07, and 08 and only the latter two are fugged up, I'm guessing this only affects 07 & 08.

https://didhondafixtheclocks.com/

In brief: Until August 17, 2022 (or after), this shite ain't gonna work. Their "fix" is to disconnect the battery and time the reconnection at 1 AM/PM. Seriously, there were fewer issues during Y2K than this nonsense...

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-a...-fixed-630065/


you been under a rock this whole year? We have a huge stickied thread about this issue

 

Why yes, yes I have! You see, I've learned so much from this forum, and my TL's are so reliable, that I hardly spend any time here anymore. I know I went looking into this clock issue a few months ago when it happened to my '06, but I must have missed that thread or only read enough where people commented it was a dealer issue, something expensive needed to be replaced, etc. Then it "magically" resolved itself and I forgot about it, until...it hit my '07 after I disconnected the battery to do some work on it a few weeks ago. So please forgive me? Pretty please?

 

But back to the issue at hand: does anyone know what happened to the OBD ports or protocols or whatever in the '07 & '08s? I'm hard-pressed to believe it's just a coincidence that I can't scan mine but can still scan my '06...

 

Thoiboi is a cranky one, but he means well.

 

You cant OBD scan your 07?

 

Correct, nor my '08. But the plot thickens: stopped at AutoZone and had them use their scanner on my '07 and it successfully connected. So now I'm thinking it could be my cheap ass generic OBD scanner and cheap ass MVCI USB cable that I use with the Honda Diagnostic Software on my laptop. Maybe the connection protocol (forgive me if that's not the correct term) or something changed in '07 and my scanner & cable don't support it or don't have the tolerance for cheap stuff? The unsupported protocol doesn't really make sense since both the cheap scanner and cheap MVCI cable were sold years after these TL's were built. Just talking out my butt as usual.

I actually have another USB diagnostic cable that I used on a BMW I was working on:


Know it's designed for BMW's but wonder if it can also be used on my TL's?