Tried searching the forums and couldn't find a similar problem. Anyhow, the rear driver side door doesn't seem to be getting the "correct" power at the window and lock. Both the power window and lock do not work with any method (driver door, rear door itself, key fob, key hole trick, etc.). The led window switch doesn't even light up. First the window stopped working, and then days later, the lock stopped working. I took the panel off and tested the window switch on the other side, and it lights up and works. I also disconnected and manually "jumped" the electrical to straight battery power/ ground on the window regulator and the lock actuator, and they both work... so it seems like it's gotta be something else. Visually checked as much wiring as I could with the door panel off (plastic removed) but without demolishing the wire loom. Didn't see anything broken or out of the ordinary. Tested the voltage on the window switch connector (male side) with the switch disconnected and all switches not being touched, and the readings seemed weird, and different from the passenger rear switch readings. I'm not very savvy on electrical at all, but here's what I generally found: on the passenger side that works great, only 1 prong showed voltage (can't remember exact voltage, but around 11-12v I believe). On the driver rear side that the issue is at, 3 of the prongs are getting voltage, including the black ground prong! 2 prongs showed 11-12v and one was about 9.5 volts. Seems wrong and weird. Small fuses under the driver dash are not blown. What could it be? I was thinking maybe driver master window switch, rear latch/lock actuator, or wiring are somehow shorting the power into this door and scrambling the power signals. Please help!

 

The service manual states that when the vehicle is powered on, only the black cable (Ground) should have voltage (this powers the switch LED). The blue cable controls the down window function and the blue/yellow cable controls the up function. Voltage should only be detected on one of those cables when the switch is activated. If the door lock is acting up as well, my bet is a communication module/wire is acting up. If you have a detailed OBD2 scanner it might give you hint by way of an error code. You can also download the Service manual (search on acurazine) and probe deeper, it covers alot of these issues. I've attached a screenshot of the power window wiring schematic.

 

It sounds like a wiring problem since all of the door functions stopped working. Below is the wiring diagram for the window and locks. You should probably check connector C751 to see if it's loose and wiggle-jiggle to see if the switches work. If not, test at that connector.

 

Okay... went back out to the car and wiggled and disconnected/reconnected connector C751 in the door jamb to see if that would fix it. Unfortunately, nothing changed. I proceeded to check for voltage at all wires at this connector, here's what I found:

- Yel/Blk wire (lock): voltage only on command.
- Yellow wire (unlock): voltage only on command.
- Black wire (ground): no voltage & continuity good.
- Yel/Red wire (fused power): 12v only with key on.
- Brown wire (master win down): ALWAYS ~10v
- Brn/Wht wire (master win up): ALWAYS ~12v

When I noted "ALWAYS ~ v" above, the power is there no matter if the car is off, car on, window switches up or down, it's always there.

Now there is one more wire I didn't see on the diagrams provided thus far. There is a brown wire from the cabin (just like the other brown wire) that turns into a black wire after the connector, into the door. What is this wire for? It also has a consistent 12 volts running through it, no matter what. Any clarification on this?

These voltages were all tested on the cabin-side half of the connector while disconnected, if that matters.

Based on the brown and brown/white wires from the master switch always having voltage no matter what (switches off and everything), I'm guessing this is a problem with the master switch potentially? Would this affect the door lock though?

Thanks for your help! These diagrams definitely helped me!

 

@509TLS It looks like the master window switch is behaving like the window disable button is pushed down based on some of your measurements. I assume that the master switch sends power to Pins 3 BRN/WHT and Pin 8 BRN when that button is pressed down to disable the windows because that will energize the window relays to put battery power to both sides of the window motor. I'm not sure why/how that will impact the door lock. Maybe the master switch is also messing with that door lock. 🤷‍♂️

Things to check

1. Double check you have a STRONG ground at Pin 1
2. Check that window disable button on the master window switch is not binding
3. Inspect the connectors on the master window switch

Here are the voltages I expect to see based on my research (I could be wrong):

• Pin 1: Ground at all times
• Pin 2: Not used
• Pin 3: Power only when window commanded UP by the master window switch
• Pin 4: This looks like a lock position sense for two conditions
  • +5V with door in locked position (connector C751 unplugged)
  • Ground with door in unlocked position
• Pin 5: Battery power or ground for door lock (depends on LOCK or UNLOCK command)
• Pin 6: Battery power or ground for door lock (depends on LOCK or UNLOCK command)
• Pin 7: Battery power when master switch is on (fuse 24)
• Pin 8: Power only when window commanded DOWN by the master window switch

THE MISSING WIRING DIAGRAM

 

@509TLS Any update on your fix?

Probably never to return again. 🙄

 

had rear window no power issue also(but locks worked).

found no 12v with key turned to ON position at the rear window switch(yellow/red) wire. checked pilar connectors and both connector sides had 12v. now going to check the rest of the wire loom in the rear door..starting from the rubber boot wires..

thought i'd add this here for info sharing.