I changed my oil for the first time over the weekend. I realized I forgot to reinstall the washer after I was done, and there was a slow leak with my oil. I then tried to pull the oil plug, and quickly reinstall it with the washer before I lost all my new oil. Though it was messy, I got it in. I noticed that its still leaking. Though its a really really small leak, it doesnt even drip, I can see the oil bolt and drain area constantly wet with oil. I tried to tighten my bolt to the point I almost stripped it. Anyone have any ideas why i'm still leaking? Is it because I didnt comepletely drain the oil before i tried to reinstall the washer?

 

If I recall, you're not supposed to reuse that washer. It is a "crush" washer and it's meant to be crushed to the necessary shape to create a seal, unlike a rubber washer which springs back. When you put it back on, it's not aligned exactly the same way, so it's leaking. Part of changing the oil is replacing that washer with a new one. Also, never tighten a nut or bolt beyond its specified torque spec. You're just asking for more trouble doing that.

 

Also check the washer for cracks, if its not too late. I am sure you could buy a 50 pack or somethin for 4 or 5 bucks.

 

damn, I've been changing oil of my civic and I've always reused my washer! Never had a problem with leaks......

 

Yeah, my friend said he has used the same washer on his integra for who knows how long. I thought maybe I could do the same. But if it is a crush washer that forms a tight seal when you tighten it, thats makes sense that its leaking. When I looked at it though, it just seemed like a plain flat washer, perfectly flat on both sides. It didnt look like it formed a shaped seal to the oil pan. I guess i'll have to make a run to the dealer for washers and maybe a new bolt. Anyone have any suggestions on what to do if my bolt is stripped? I havent tried to remove it yet, but i'll do it when i get a new washer and bolt. Hopefully I can still get it off without a problem.

 

Besides the possibility that the washer shapes to form a seal, the other thing I could think of it that you didn't get a good seal due to the oil that was pouring out at the time. If you put it on before there was oil in the pan, the exterior of the pan should have been clean/free of oil. Maybe when you put it on while oil is pouring out, there is not a tight seal between the washer and the pan, because there was oil there, and now it is able to 'slide' out. I don't know if any of that is possible though.

Other idea is that you put it on with the wrong side facing the car. I believe you are supposed to put it on with the smooth side touchign the car, and the rough side touching the bolt. Maybe you reserved this?

 

Are you sure the washer is two sided? I dont remember one side being rough compared to the other and the service manual doesnt say anything about a two sided washer. Also, does anyone know if I can get the oil bolt and washers from Honda dealer? There is one less that 5 mins from my house compared to the acura dealer which is 30 mins away.

 

Although changing the oil is usually a straight forward process, it's still a process
that needs to be done with care and the right tools. If you're not sure about changing the oil, check the manual - it will give you hints on what to replace (such as a washer ($0.20) and the correct torque specs for the oil drain bolt.
Stripping the drain plug threads and the subsequent retapping is not fun!!
This isn't meant to be preachy, we just want to see you get many good trouble free miles out of a great car.

TL-Rocket

 

Yes, you can buy the bolts and washers from the Honda dealer. Our TLs use the same parts (even the same filters - 15400-PLM-A01/A02) as the Honda Accords.

 

I guess what would bother me is the bolded statement of yours above. Most people who say they "almost" stripped it, actually did.... I've been a mechanic for 30 years and feel if you think you almost stripped it, IE - felt it give strangely while tightening, it probably did strip. Hope I'm wrong... I would borrow a torque wrench and attempt to torque to specs. If it wont, you know you have a problem...
The washer itself can be used over a few times, but if you're at the dealer might as well pick a few up. It's not really a "crush" washer by definition but like previously mentioned, soft enough to form to small imperfections of the pan etc. I've changed my TL oil 4 times now and have only replaced the washer twice. Actually used a few extras I had from my Civic Si. Like you, I don't have a Honda or Acura dealer within 30 miles thus my skimping on the washer. Either way, I have never experienced any leaking.

Hopefully it is just some anomaly with the used washer. If not, check for a stripped drain plug.

Heres hoping it's not...

Cheers

 

Well, to clarify I dont think I stripped the threads on the oil pan. What I meant to say was that I kinda rounded off the oil plug with my socket wrench. I hope it just slipped and did not round off too much. Anyone know of a good way to remove a rounded off bolt?

 

I've had oil leakage problems in the past on the Honda/Acura's when using a new AL washer.

The solution that I always use whenever I change the oil is to apply a very small amount of Permatex Gasket Sealer (it's a liquid compound, DO NOT USE the Permatex Silicon Gasket sealer) to both sides of the washer. It is available at most autoparts stores. Use it sparingly and only apply a thin film. I also put a very small amount on the few threads of the oil drain plugs close to the head of the bolt. Wipe off any excess with a rags before putting the drain plug bolt back in. The Permatex stuff helps seal the drain plug, I've never had a oil drain plug leak whenever I've used this method. It also does harden and remains tacky even used for engine oil sealing. For whatever reason, the Honda drain plugs threads (1.25mm?) on the bolt and oil pan have alot of "play" so they then to allow oil to leak sometimes even when a new washer and proper torqueing is done.

As stated in KJSmitty's good posting above, do not overtighten the drain plug. Use a torque wrench. I have reused the washers in the past when I didn't have one handy but these days I buy several extra whenever I get filters so I now only use new ones.

Also hope you didn't strip the pan and only the bolt, it's a pain to get a tap and rethread the pan.

 

This is the Permatec product I use for the above posting.

Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant
Nonhardening liquid gasket sealant/dressing/coating is a thin, brushable dressing or sealer for close-fitting parts. Suitable for continuous temperatures to 400°F (204°C). Resistant to antifreeze, aviation fuels, high-detergent oils and lubricants. Conforms to MIL-S-45180 D.

 

Vise-Grip wrench. If that fails, use a cold chisel and hammer but be very careful not to damage the oil pan or anything else.

Also besides using a jack, make sure you use jack-stands.

 

Washer needs to be changed every oil change maybe change the stud too to be sure

 

^thanks for answering this thread. I finally got my answer to this problem 5 years later. you sir a life saver LMAO

and btw, you dont need to change the washer every change. it can be re-used several times but most people change it because its so cheap

 

I use the EZ Drain and no more worrying about washers or stripping the threads. I bought mine at O'Reilly's.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1261282