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I am pretty new in this community as i made this account years ago. But I never used it only to browse on it offline. Haha
Attached in this thread will be pictures of my problem. It's been driving me nuts. It looks to me maybe my timing gasket is leaking i'm assumming but i would like some clarification just to be safe before i knock it out and take it apart.
It's such a small leak not really major but its annoying cause i thought it was my oil plug so i got a oversized bolt and put that in thinking it would fix the problem. then i realize the leak rooting from up there down to the bolt making it look like the drain bolt was bad. It's near the bank 2 catalytic converter as you can see the down pipe.
My car has 256,785 and It's been almost 11 years since i bought my first car haha. I just been slowly changing parts and keep up with the maintenance all these years by myself. The car stlll runs smooth as butterl lol
Any help would be appreciative. and I am truely sorry if this is a repeat i been looking all day using the search system. but i don't know what it is called exactly.
That's the oil pump's top double o-ring leaking, depositing oil right by the passenger side front end tip of the oil pan and soaking the a/c compressor at the same time.
It's a huge job to do. I just completed this job on my 07 Accord V6, along with putting on a new timing belt + water pump, it took me 2 weeks of on and off working on it in my garage. See pictures below when I did this job back in May. You need to take off the J-pipe, oil pan, and oil pump, in order to put in a new o-ring for the oil pump. The oil loss is not huge, but it will drip onto the floor when temp variations are great such as during the winter. I actually let it go for 3 years but it only gets worse and worse. I tried using high mileage oil but it didn't help at all. If your 3rd catalytic converter is rusted onto the exhaust, then you need to drop the whole exhaust system, this is what I did. If you are not up to the task, then it's a $1500 to $2000 at a shop. You'll need special tools like rusted bolt sockets for the exhaust bolts. I was well prepared and knew what was involved before I dove in. If you are going that far and if the timing belt and water pump + timing components are almost due, then you might as well do them all at the same time because this tears completely into the bottom and passenger sides of the engine.
My oil pump has been leaking for the last 6 or 7 years. Acura quote $1600 and I said no thanks. Mine only accumulates on the oil pan and I am never down oil between changes, so left it alone and used the money to buy a guitar. Mine is at 289,435 miles, so I have just been dealing with it. Relatively common issue with Gun 3.
It's a common issue across all J series engines. Once you hit about 8 to 10 years old, it starts leaking there. It's a $2 o-ring, but takes hours to get to it. I have all the tips and tricks if you are interested in doing it yourself. If you want to let it go, that's fine, but if you VTEC a lot, then some oil literally sometimes squirt out of that top oil port during high oil pressure operation.
It's a common issue across all J series engines. Once you hit about 8 to 10 years old, it starts leaking there. It's a $2 o-ring, but takes hours to get to it. I have all the tips and tricks if you are interested in doing it yourself. If you want to let it go, that's fine, but if you VTEC a lot, then some oil literally sometimes squirt out of that top oil port during high oil pressure operation.
Man, if you got some easy tricks to do this job. I will gladly take my time to get it done right as to i VTEC sometimes but i always check my levels to make sure its not low.
That's the oil pump's top double o-ring leaking, depositing oil right by the passenger side front end tip of the oil pan and soaking the a/c compressor at the same time.
It's a huge job to do. I just completed this job on my 07 Accord V6, along with putting on a new timing belt + water pump, it took me 2 weeks of on and off working on it in my garage. See pictures below when I did this job back in May. You need to take off the J-pipe, oil pan, and oil pump, in order to put in a new o-ring for the oil pump. The oil loss is not huge, but it will drip onto the floor when temp variations are great such as during the winter. I actually let it go for 3 years but it only gets worse and worse. I tried using high mileage oil but it didn't help at all. If your 3rd catalytic converter is rusted onto the exhaust, then you need to drop the whole exhaust system, this is what I did. If you are not up to the task, then it's a $1500 to $2000 at a shop. You'll need special tools like rusted bolt sockets for the exhaust bolts. I was well prepared and knew what was involved before I dove in. If you are going that far and if the timing belt and water pump + timing components are almost due, then you might as well do them all at the same time because this tears completely into the bottom and passenger sides of the engine.
By reading all this. I think i got a good understanding! I will try to look up a little more and try to knock it out. I guesse it was this area as well, but did not know it was such a huge job! Thank you for the advice my friend.
.... Once you hit about 8 to 10 years old, it starts leaking there....I have all the tips and tricks if you are interested in doing it yourself.
Hey t-rd, I’d love the tips/tricks/advice on this one. My T-belt/H2O Pump are about due on my ‘05 and it’s got the “VTech leak” as is common. I wonder if a very little bit of Hondabond in the Oring grove would help it live longer?
anyway, all advice appreciated! Thanks
Hondabond or Permatex gasket maker around the outside of the oil pump housing wouldn't work at all and you would need to have the water pump off to even get a pinky finger above the oil pump. I have seen pictures of people doing this, one guy even turned one of the bolts another 1/4 turn to stop the oil leak. You shouldn't overtorque a bolt to stop an oil leak. The problem is the old o-ring.
First of all, you need to know how to set the engine in time then remove the timing belt and water pump. You need to be able to get here first. See that dirty area right below the water pump well? That's where the oil leak comes out of.
I've paid about $2200 to make this issue go away, was misdiagnosed the first time. Pretty much paid for a timing belt job twice, because the labor is so involved. All good now, the shop even replaced the oil pump metal plate that the o-ring goes into because they said it becomes "porous" over time. Was done at about 91xxx miles. Stupid o-ring!
I'm not sure what metal plate your dealer was talking about. There is no separate metal plate by the o-ring. It's just the oil pump and the block, with an o-ring in between. See my oil pump picture above. People often misdiagnose this issue as the oil pan leaking by the pan's front passenger's side corner. But the pan rarely leaks. There IS a metal plate, but it goes over the pump's rotor, it is also sealed tight and is internal to the oil pump. Even if oil seeps out of the plate inside the pump, the oil seeps inside the pump and to the outside area of the engine.
Hondabond or Permatex gasket maker around the outside of the oil pump housing wouldn't work at all and you would need to have the water pump off to even get a pinky finger above the oil pump....... The problem is the old o ring. See that dirty area right below the water pump well? That's where the oil leak comes out of.
I think you misunderstood me, and I didn’t explain myself clearly.
I meant when replacing that o-ring, maybe a thin bed of Honda bond in the groove may help the oring live longer.
thanks for the pic though. I haven’t had a Honda V 6 apart yet, but I will have by next week!
The service manual states to not hondabond the gasket itself, so I didn't. But I don't see why it would hurt. However, it needs to be a very thin light coat. That gasket is very small.
I replaced the 2 downstream O2 sensors while I had the entire exhaust dropped out for the job also. Not a bad idea to do them at the same time while you have ample access. I got a good increase in gas mileage afterwards + ZERO oil leak now.
I'm not sure what metal plate your dealer was talking about. There is no separate metal plate by the o-ring. It's just the oil pump and the block, with an o-ring in between. See my oil pump picture above. People often misdiagnose this issue as the oil pan leaking by the pan's front passenger's side corner. But the pan rarely leaks. There IS a metal plate, but it goes over the pump's rotor, it is also sealed tight and is internal to the oil pump. Even if oil seeps out of the plate inside the pump, the oil seeps inside the pump and to the outside area of the engine.
second picture in post #4 of this thread. that whole thing got replaced. it was done by a shop whos owner used to be a honda tech. i probably did not explain it well.
2nd picture in post #4 I put up is the oil pump. You just need to reseal it, no need to replace it. It is the type of aluminum that's not made to be porous. If that's the case, I'd still be leaking oil right now, in fact, the entire block would be leaking oil if engine block aluminum is porous. You got sold a new pump by the dealer for no reason, they just didn't want to cleanup your old one that's why they said you need to replace it.
06-30-2019 | 05:27 PM
