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So recently my 2008 TL has been making whining noises from the power steering pump. I tried performing all the recommended fixes and ended up taking the whole pump off. The whole backside of the pump (the squarish part that faces in toward the side of the engine) was almost black from old power steering fluid. I cleaned everything up, put new oem fluid in, bled the system, and then started her back up. The whining was gone so I decided to take her for a spin and a couple minutes in it started whining again. Upon further inspection I noticed the seem along the squarish part is leaking. I've heard you can disassemble these and install all new o-rings and gaskets but is it worth it? If I decide to order a new pump would I be completely screwed if I didn't get an oem one? I would be doing the labor myself as it's a pretty easy task. Just need some advice from some TL experts haha
I had same leak point on my pump. I would recommend the rebuild. OEM parts for rebuild were less than $35, new OEM pump was a lot more (maybe over $200, but not sure).
It is a pretty easy DIY, especially if you skip the seal that requires pulling the shaft. My additional advice to the DIY is to wash the pump before the rebuild.
I had same leak point on my pump. I would recommend the rebuild. OEM parts for rebuild were less than $35, new OEM pump was a lot more (maybe over $200, but not sure).
It is a pretty easy DIY, especially if you skip the seal that requires pulling the shaft. My additional advice to the DIY is to wash the pump before the rebuild.
Thanks for the advice! When you say wash, do you mean in the inner parts of the pump too? I disassembled everything the inside is covered in power steering fluid. Should I clean all the individual parts? I saw in the DIY it mentioned relubricating each piece with new fluid. Also, how long has this rebuild lasted you?
I paid $30ish for the seals/bearing for the kit and $424 for an OEM pump. I opt’t for a new pump rather than rebuilding the remanufactured one already on my car. The kit is for sale in the black market if you wanted. Or the part number are listed there too so you can buy them loaclly
my pump has the same look (worse) and i was told about 3 years ago that my PS pump was leaking. I've kept an eye on it and this weekend i'll be doing the rebuild myself. I'll be doing all seals, bearing, and new shaft too for peace of mind - full rebuild not just the seals. It came out to about 80 bucks after discount (I know the parts manager really well from buying so many parts the last 10 years haha).
from what i heard it's about a 2 hour job and should last just as long as it did already like justin said. my goal is for it to last at least 5 more years
my pump has the same look (worse) and i was told about 3 years ago that my PS pump was leaking. I've kept an eye on it and this weekend i'll be doing the rebuild myself. I'll be doing all seals, bearing, and new shaft too for peace of mind - full rebuild not just the seals. It came out to about 80 bucks after discount (I know the parts manager really well from buying so many parts the last 10 years haha).
from what i heard it's about a 2 hour job and should last just as long as it did already like justin said. my goal is for it to last at least 5 more years
Awesome! I'm all about doing stuff right so if doing rebuild the right can get me even 5 years more from the oem pump I'll be ecstatic. I just called my local Acura dealer and I got all new o-rings and the bearing. How much should the bearing be though? I didn't think it was going to be more than $20 or $30 but I was told by the dealer it's like $44 for the bear and $60 total for the bearing and o-rings together
Awesome! I'm all about doing stuff right so if doing rebuild the right can get me even 5 years more from the oem pump I'll be ecstatic. I just called my local Acura dealer and I got all new o-rings and the bearing. How much should the bearing be though? I didn't think it was going to be more than $20 or $30 but I was told by the dealer it's like $44 for the bear and $60 total for the bearing and o-rings together
i can check my invoice when i get home in a few hours. i think i paid 80 overall which included all seals, the bearing, and the shaft along with 3 bottles of PS fluid. i want to say the bearing was like 10-20 bucks tho. i think the shaft was the most expensive piece
i usually knock out maintenance right away, but time has gone by too fast for me on this one, plus i didn't notice any effects of the leaks (no fluid needing to be filled). i'll be happy to finally knock this one out.
now if only i had the time and money to do my rear main seal and oil pump leak. those will have to wait 70k more miles until the next tb/wp job haha
i can check my invoice when i get home in a few hours. i think i paid 80 overall which included all seals, the bearing, and the shaft along with 3 bottles of PS fluid. i want to say the bearing was like 10-20 bucks tho. i think the shaft was the most expensive piece
i usually knock out maintenance right away, but time has gone by too fast for me on this one, plus i didn't notice any effects of the leaks (no fluid needing to be filled). i'll be happy to finally knock this one out.
now if only i had the time and money to do my rear main seal and oil pump leak. those will have to wait 70k more miles until the next tb/wp job haha
Okay! The bearing is the bigger o-ring looking thing that gets inserted in the square cover part with the 4 12mm bolts right? The dealer said the part number changed to a different one when I called earlier. I'm going to pick the parts up after work today so I'll compare the old one to the one the dealer has and i will update this thread if the part number has changed (I went based off the DIY link listed above in one of the first posts)
i can check my invoice when i get home in a few hours. i think i paid 80 overall which included all seals, the bearing, and the shaft along with 3 bottles of PS fluid. i want to say the bearing was like 10-20 bucks tho. i think the shaft was the most expensive piece
i usually knock out maintenance right away, but time has gone by too fast for me on this one, plus i didn't notice any effects of the leaks (no fluid needing to be filled). i'll be happy to finally knock this one out.
now if only i had the time and money to do my rear main seal and oil pump leak. those will have to wait 70k more miles until the next tb/wp job haha
Have you replace your PCV valve, D? That usually alleviates the rear main seal leaking issue. Can't help you on the oil pump leak though.
Have you replace your PCV valve, D? That usually alleviates the rear main seal leaking issue. Can't help you on the oil pump leak though.
i have changed that a few years ago. helped a little but i still need to put in about a quart or 2 every oil change. no oil leaks on ground, it only happens when driving under pressure
When you say wash, do you mean in the inner parts of the pump too? I disassembled everything the inside is covered in power steering fluid. Should I clean all the individual parts? I saw in the DIY it mentioned relubricating each piece with new fluid. Also, how long has this rebuild lasted you?
I only meant to wash the outside of the pump. The OP, in the link I attached, suggests washing the outside of the pump before replacing in the car. I thought washing the pump before working on the insides made more sense in my case. My pump was covered with a film of dirt and old power steering fluid that had leaked.
I spent more than half my time on this job picking out little pieces of dirt from the inside of the pump. The outside of my pump was covered in dirt and every time I would handle the body to position it, I would touch the dirt. Then when I grabbed an internal piece (like a new o-ring), the dirt would transfer to the inside of the pump.
I remember reading somewhere that dirt inside these pumps is very bad. The high pressure side of the pump will send the power steering fluid plus dirt at the seals in the rack and pinion part.
I did my pump last february and no leaks yet. Frankly, the seals are OEM so I would hope to get many years from this rebuild.
Okay! The bearing is the bigger o-ring looking thing that gets inserted in the square cover part with the 4 12mm bolts right? ... changed (I went based off the DIY link listed above in one of the first posts)
I don't think so. Keep in mind, the link I sent you is only for the seals on the engine-facing side of the pump. The leak you showed in your picture is probably coming from one of these seals (likely the pear shaped o-ring).
The bearing and the shaft, plus one/some other seals, are on the other side of the pump. Doing these items requires more time (and IMHO more skill, maybe a vise plus snap ring pliers etc). You will need to remove pulley, shaft in order to remove bearing. Here is a pretty good video on the rebuild of both sides.
I don't think so. Keep in mind, the link I sent you is only for the seals on the engine-facing side of the pump. The leak you showed in your picture is probably coming from one of these seals (likely the pear shaped o-ring).
The bearing and the shaft, plus one/some other seals, are on the other side of the pump. Doing these items requires more time (and IMHO more skill, maybe a vise plus snap ring pliers etc). You will need to remove pulley, shaft in order to remove bearing. Here is a pretty good video on the rebuild of both sides.
My apologies, I meant the pear shaped one when I said the big o-ring. I ended up purchasing all 5 o-rings and the bearing today. I did the repair in about an hour since I already had the pump off and had cleaned it up previously. I only replaced the 2 o-rings and the bearing that go in to the housing closest to the engine. I realized one of the o-rings on the list to buy was just the inlet hose o-ring. I swap that out every so often so I never have to deal with it and I just did that one not too long ago so I skipped that one when I did the repair. I also skipped the o-ring flow valve but will get to that another day when I have the right tools. I bled the system and took her for a drive... no whining and no leaking fluid anywhere. I hope this holds up for awhile! Seems to be a solid fix. Cost me $65 total for the 5 o-rings and the bearing as well as another bottle of fluid. Better than $400 on a new one! Oh and btw, the part number on for bearing changed.. it is now 91349-R70-P01
i can check my invoice when i get home in a few hours. i think i paid 80 overall which included all seals, the bearing, and the shaft along with 3 bottles of PS fluid. i want to say the bearing was like 10-20 bucks tho. i think the shaft was the most expensive piece
i usually knock out maintenance right away, but time has gone by too fast for me on this one, plus i didn't notice any effects of the leaks (no fluid needing to be filled). i'll be happy to finally knock this one out.
now if only i had the time and money to do my rear main seal and oil pump leak. those will have to wait 70k more miles until the next tb/wp job haha
ALL THIS TIME AND YOU HAVEN'T DONE THE PS PUMP? lol I see what you did there, I gotta reseal the WDP TL some time later on this year.
11-19-2018, 11:15 PM
